USED OILS AS FUELS

[Diesel JD]

I think your used motor oil is probably changed before it gets bad enough to have a lot of corrosive stuff in it. Most people are driving gas motors and they aren't as ******* motor oil as diesels. My parents 4Runner still showed a good oil analysis from Blackstone when I changed it last time at 9500+ miles, so I'm going for 10,000+ this interval, just changed the filter at around 5500 miles and topped it off. I never let the oil stay in my diesel longer than 2500-3500 miles and it usually needs 1-2 quarts of make up oil, also not too nasty yet by the time it gets drained. I guess my biggest concern would be what might be on the bottom of somebody's used motor oil tank, stuff like water, antifreeze, chunks of junk. Filtering can eliminate most of that, perhaps not all. As far as homebrewing biodiesel, it may or may not be expensive, it IS time consuming, to varying degrees depending on how well you can automate your system and how good you get at it. The price usually depends on how cheap you can get methanol and wvo. Of course methanol is made from natural gas and it is a commodity and a "fossil fuel" so you're still subject to the intricacies of the world market. The NaOH or KOH is cheap relatively speaking. You could use ethanol or E85 as your alcohol but it gets harder to make acceptable biodiesel with that.

 

[Papabear]

i would not run WMO through any diesel that does not have a strictly mechanical fuel system and ALWAYS carry a spare fuel filter

 

[Devilish]

A spare fuel filter is a true fact and maybe a small quantity of #2 to pour into the filter or else you'll have to crack the fuel lines.

 

[MARQ2277]

I agaree. I would only use UMO in an IDI motor, and the extra filter is a darn good idea. I am hoping that my fuel making set up will do an awsome job of getting all contaminations and water out. I plan on pulling the fuel through a double fine filter set first (one (1) micron filters), and then heating the fuel and runing it through its final stage of two (2) three (3) micron filters. The pump I think I will be using will be a Turbo Flyer (Ramco Permormance Manufacturing), which has a heater, water seperator, and a three (3) micron filter in itself.

It will cost a bit to start up, but I want to finish with a good fuel product that my family and myself and burn in our mechanical diesels (mine is the 7.3 IDI, my parents is a 92 5.9 Cummins).

Marq.
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1990 Ford F-250 4X4:
7.3 IDI with 120K on the clock:
ATS Turbo with waste gate:
Stage One Injectors (Oregon Injector Service):
Complete Return Fuel Kit (Oregon Injector Service):
DB2 Pump, cranked up with Cold Advance wired permanently on:
4” down pipe, 4” straight through exhaust stopping between cab and bed (no **** on my stuff):
Torque Converter Lock Up Switch (On/Off/Lock-Up):
E4OD Line Pressure Controller (adjusted to fast/firm shifts):
4” lift w/Rancho shocks:
Big Fat Tires on custom rims:

Tows 1985 fully loaded heavy 28 foot RV (my house) everywhere: