Josh Carmack
Full Access Member
From engines that never saw anything but d2 I have pulled white ones, brown ones, and black ones. the white ones came from engines that were in tip top shape otherwise.
Setup, So far free.
- Thread starter cviola2005
- Start date
cviola2005
6.2/6.5 Detroit Nut
As for the white deposits on injectors and GPs, I believe it has to do with burn time and injection timing. IE. slower burn. My engine has not had white on GPs until I started burning W85 without readjusting my timing.
cviola2005
6.2/6.5 Detroit Nut
And now for the big update.... My truck now has a two piece crankshaft!!! That's right, crankshaft is broken into two pieces!!
JPhauler87
Full Access Member
Is that on a sweet 6.5?
whitehorse
Full Access Member
That ain't good..I heard the 6.5s was bad about that when the harmonic balancer goes out
cviola2005
6.2/6.5 Detroit Nut
It's on the 6.2 in my sig. Although the HB was a factory piece, the rubber was still in good looking shape, no cracks, rips, or separation from metal. But it may have started coming apart in the miles leading up to this. BTW, it was still running, despite where it broke. When I pulled it home, I push started it to get it where I wanted it. lol
whitehorse
Full Access Member
Can't keep a good idi down...
cviola2005
6.2/6.5 Detroit Nut
Can't keep a good idi down...
lol, ain't that the truth.
cviola2005
6.2/6.5 Detroit Nut
UPDATE!!!!
I have decided to send my truck to a family member to fix it. I don't have any time, or a place inside to do it. I have ordered my parts and I believe I got them for a steal. I can post a price list if anyone wants to see it.
I ordered a new crank with bearings, harmonic balancer, balancer pulley, and a lower conversion gasket set.
Added to the mix, I ordered a used set of injectors and a pop tester. The injectors are the same as the ones in my engine, genuine Bosch from Germany short 6.5 injectors. I will clean and test all 16 of those and then start calibrating them to make one set as close to each other as possible. I have a total of 4 of 5 sets to pull shims from, hopefully it will work in my favor.
I will also resume making my own WMO diesel, but I think I will change it up just a bit. I had been running different variations like W85, W82.5, W80. I believe I will stick to W85, but mix that 50/50 with highway diesel. Hopefully that will limit the coking because before this, it was terrible. Ill post pics of injectors when they come out.
I have decided to send my truck to a family member to fix it. I don't have any time, or a place inside to do it. I have ordered my parts and I believe I got them for a steal. I can post a price list if anyone wants to see it.
I ordered a new crank with bearings, harmonic balancer, balancer pulley, and a lower conversion gasket set.
Added to the mix, I ordered a used set of injectors and a pop tester. The injectors are the same as the ones in my engine, genuine Bosch from Germany short 6.5 injectors. I will clean and test all 16 of those and then start calibrating them to make one set as close to each other as possible. I have a total of 4 of 5 sets to pull shims from, hopefully it will work in my favor.
I will also resume making my own WMO diesel, but I think I will change it up just a bit. I had been running different variations like W85, W82.5, W80. I believe I will stick to W85, but mix that 50/50 with highway diesel. Hopefully that will limit the coking because before this, it was terrible. Ill post pics of injectors when they come out.
cviola2005
6.2/6.5 Detroit Nut
Ok, so I forgot all about pictures of the injectors. I managed to get a full set of injectors calibrated at 1950 psi. IIRC, stock pressure for 93 turbo 6.5 is 2187.5 psi, but since I still have a stock IP, I figure it would be best to lower the pop pressure to accommodate for IP wear. I didn't quite "choose" 1950 for any particular reason except that 5 of the injectors I have were already there.
BTW, the injectors that came out of the truck (that were working just fine, mind you) popped at the following pressures:
2300, 2100, 1950, 1850, 1800, 1800, 1550, and 1450. What a range!!! I'm very very very surprised that it ran so dang good before the catastrophe!
Something else I've noticed. I believe the having the injectors calibrated has seriously reduced turbo lag and boost ability. I have a homemade turbo master, which I had cranked down pretty tight to get 14 pounds of boost before. Upon engine reassembly, I loosened the turbomaster a lot, til I felt that it shouldnt create much, if any, boost, thought maybe 4 psi. Thats where I wanted it set for the beginning, to get everything broke in. WELL..... first drive around the block, and not getting on it at all, only accelerating slowly to get to speed limit, boost climbed to 13 psi and I had to let off it. I backed out the turbomaster some more, til the spring just barely held the wastegate closed, and tried again. Now boost climbs to 12 psi. Awesome!! Of course I still have turbo lag, but its significantly reduced.
Also, previously, I got to messing around with the advance cam and it actuator. I felt that I tightened everything up a little too tight and limited the amount of advance that it could give. During engine reassembly, I backed off the adjustment screw at the bottom of the advance lever, but now I think I backed it out too far because cold idle absolutely sucks. Doesn't really want to run for the first 20 secs or so after startup, then it idles low and lopes alot like it has a radical cam. Once the temp comes up (or maybe its just 1-2 minutes later), it runs smooth and consistent at about 800 rpm.
Im not sure what the about issue is caused by. Is the advance cam spring being weak, and since losing lever adjustment caused it to change a lot at idle? If so, wouldn't it do it all the time at idle? OR is a problem in the fuel lines? Maybe something causing air to enter the system pre-IP, therefore causing a crappy running condition for 20 or seconds after startup? I noticed that the return line between cylinders 2&4 or 4&6 (IDR which) is leaking, but I don't think it would cause this problem.
Thats all I can think of for now.
BTW, the injectors that came out of the truck (that were working just fine, mind you) popped at the following pressures:
2300, 2100, 1950, 1850, 1800, 1800, 1550, and 1450. What a range!!! I'm very very very surprised that it ran so dang good before the catastrophe!
Something else I've noticed. I believe the having the injectors calibrated has seriously reduced turbo lag and boost ability. I have a homemade turbo master, which I had cranked down pretty tight to get 14 pounds of boost before. Upon engine reassembly, I loosened the turbomaster a lot, til I felt that it shouldnt create much, if any, boost, thought maybe 4 psi. Thats where I wanted it set for the beginning, to get everything broke in. WELL..... first drive around the block, and not getting on it at all, only accelerating slowly to get to speed limit, boost climbed to 13 psi and I had to let off it. I backed out the turbomaster some more, til the spring just barely held the wastegate closed, and tried again. Now boost climbs to 12 psi. Awesome!! Of course I still have turbo lag, but its significantly reduced.
Also, previously, I got to messing around with the advance cam and it actuator. I felt that I tightened everything up a little too tight and limited the amount of advance that it could give. During engine reassembly, I backed off the adjustment screw at the bottom of the advance lever, but now I think I backed it out too far because cold idle absolutely sucks. Doesn't really want to run for the first 20 secs or so after startup, then it idles low and lopes alot like it has a radical cam. Once the temp comes up (or maybe its just 1-2 minutes later), it runs smooth and consistent at about 800 rpm.
Im not sure what the about issue is caused by. Is the advance cam spring being weak, and since losing lever adjustment caused it to change a lot at idle? If so, wouldn't it do it all the time at idle? OR is a problem in the fuel lines? Maybe something causing air to enter the system pre-IP, therefore causing a crappy running condition for 20 or seconds after startup? I noticed that the return line between cylinders 2&4 or 4&6 (IDR which) is leaking, but I don't think it would cause this problem.
Thats all I can think of for now.
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