FarmerFrank
Full Access Member
Find a power steering pump or pump for an oil furnace, strap it to a little motor and go to town.
Setup, So far free.
- Thread starter cviola2005
- Start date
Josh Carmack
Full Access Member
I got thousands of gallons of oil through my power steering pump, still chugs along easily.
cviola2005
6.2/6.5 Detroit Nut
Funny that you mention that. I have a spare hydroboost power steering pump and a 110v 2 speed motor from a 48" floor fan. I'll have to find both, but wouldn't take much to make a funtional 110v pump. Not sure about how fast to run the PS pump. Anyone know a good RPM range? The motor spins at 1700 and 3400 RPM and has (I believe) about a 4 inch pulley. PS pump has about a 6 inch pulley, I think.
Think I should just mount them with a belt and see what happens? Or should I be more scientific and try to figure out RPM, pressure, and volume flow?
Think I should just mount them with a belt and see what happens? Or should I be more scientific and try to figure out RPM, pressure, and volume flow?
FarmerFrank
Full Access Member
Puttem together and find out. That's how most do it! Tinker with it, adjust, redesign until it suits your needs
X10
I would say this could be the motto for this section.
There are many similar things a person can do, BUT they are all unique.
FarmerFrank
Full Access Member
I couldn't tell you how many times I've added stuff, removed pieces, adjusted regulators, redone hose routings, an all that jazz to just the processor (or "refinery" as I like to call it). Then you get to the truck and the REAL fun begins. It's all worth it for the saving for me but it defiantly takes patients and time to get a good working set up.
cviola2005
6.2/6.5 Detroit Nut
Well.... the slightly delayed cold start took a terrible turn for the worse. now both hot and cold start is delayed for about 5 secs. Still runs strong once started. Thought that I'd need more RUG, maybe to lower the flash point more?? Nope, i mixed up to 80/20 with no change. Still runs strong, very similar to 85/15. Then I got to thinking about my IP timing. Maybe it's too low for dirty diesel. So I adjusted the timing til the ear said it sounded good. Decent power in top end, but had low power in bottom end. Now it sounds like marbles in a tin can at idle. I think this is because the advance cam actuator has a lot of free play, allowing the advance cam to change itself. And it still has a delayed start. So in the morning, I'm gonna remove upper intake and work on the advance cam lever and its roller actuator to take out the free play, and then readjust my timing. Hopefully It will solve the terrible rattling noise, the hard starts, and hopefully bring back my low end power without taking away from my top end power.
The FNG
NOT a Powerstroke!
I'm assuming that your GM is an IDI, which actually has the same injection pump as the ford IDI (stanadyne db2 I think). Anyway, I'm not sure your experience with timing these pumps, but you really can't get a good reading on what your timing is by ear. Plus there are a few other factors that go into it like engine temp, fuel (when performing timing), engine rpm when measuring, etc. Whatever you do, don't move the pump while the engine is running. Another note, 3 degrees of timing is moving the pump the width of a dime iirc. Double check that.
I'm sure you already know these things, just trying to help a guy out. On the ford's, a good advanced timing is like 9.8, factory is at 8ish. I'm not a chevy guy, so I can't say for you.
As for hard cold starts, you will see that. That's just how this stuff works. I would suggest a manual glow plug switch that is a NO push button style.
I'm sure you already know these things, just trying to help a guy out. On the ford's, a good advanced timing is like 9.8, factory is at 8ish. I'm not a chevy guy, so I can't say for you.
As for hard cold starts, you will see that. That's just how this stuff works. I would suggest a manual glow plug switch that is a NO push button style.
cviola2005
6.2/6.5 Detroit Nut
Yes it is an IDI. Although both GMs and Fords have a Stanadyne DB2 IP, they have several different features, such as:
Ford: CCW rotation, throttle hookup on passenger side, round mounting flange
GM: CW rotation, throttle hookup on driver side, triangular mounting flange
and of course firing order differs between the two.
I have no way of timing a diesel correctly. I have a digital timing meter for a gasser, but not for a diesel, so by ear is the only way.
Of the factors that you mentioned, I know my fuel is causing me grief. It is the only reason I decided to adjust the timing. I have the GM Detriot Diesel FSM for both 6.2 and 6.5. I also have the Stanadyne DB2 IP Manual, although it highlights on (I believe) a Ford 6 cylinder version.
Interesting note about 3 degrees, dime width. From the setting mine was at for D2 (about 1/8" or on advance side), I have now advanced it about another 1/32" to 1/16" advanced to make it run the same for my dirty diesel. So approximately 3/16" advanced, or say 3 dimes. That would be about 9* advance. I cant find my manuals, but when I do, I'll find the stock timing setting and post back. I think it is about 1/8" advance.
I do appreciate all discussions and help.
I shouldn't have to worry about hard cold starts because (A) I rebuild this engine last year, approx 5000 miles ago and (B) I already did the manual glow plug switch mod. I've never had hard starts until I started mixing dirty diesel. I know I haven't mixed enough to find where my truck is happiest, but I hope to soon. I hate hard starting.
I adjusted the timing this morning. Not only base timing, but also timing advance curve. Took out the slop using the adjuster screw on the bottom of the advance cam lever. Then I adjusted the advance curve on the throttle shaft. I must say the seat of the pants dyno really likes the new setup. I'll drive it to work today to field test it some more, and when leaving work we will see how it starts cold.
Ford: CCW rotation, throttle hookup on passenger side, round mounting flange
GM: CW rotation, throttle hookup on driver side, triangular mounting flange
and of course firing order differs between the two.
I have no way of timing a diesel correctly. I have a digital timing meter for a gasser, but not for a diesel, so by ear is the only way.
Of the factors that you mentioned, I know my fuel is causing me grief. It is the only reason I decided to adjust the timing. I have the GM Detriot Diesel FSM for both 6.2 and 6.5. I also have the Stanadyne DB2 IP Manual, although it highlights on (I believe) a Ford 6 cylinder version.
Interesting note about 3 degrees, dime width. From the setting mine was at for D2 (about 1/8" or on advance side), I have now advanced it about another 1/32" to 1/16" advanced to make it run the same for my dirty diesel. So approximately 3/16" advanced, or say 3 dimes. That would be about 9* advance. I cant find my manuals, but when I do, I'll find the stock timing setting and post back. I think it is about 1/8" advance.
I do appreciate all discussions and help.
I shouldn't have to worry about hard cold starts because (A) I rebuild this engine last year, approx 5000 miles ago and (B) I already did the manual glow plug switch mod. I've never had hard starts until I started mixing dirty diesel. I know I haven't mixed enough to find where my truck is happiest, but I hope to soon. I hate hard starting.
I adjusted the timing this morning. Not only base timing, but also timing advance curve. Took out the slop using the adjuster screw on the bottom of the advance cam lever. Then I adjusted the advance curve on the throttle shaft. I must say the seat of the pants dyno really likes the new setup. I'll drive it to work today to field test it some more, and when leaving work we will see how it starts cold.
JPhauler87
Full Access Member
Are you getting white smoke as well? With no timing advance, heater, or power service mixed in, it not not take long at all for my 6cyl IDI Benz to start coking enough to affect starting. Seems to still be slowly happening on my current 5cyl as well, but taking longer.
Have you been kinda keeping track of your hard starting vs. outside temps...???
Of course as it gets cooler the starting could get little harder..
Try moving your percentage of wmo back until it starts better. Then you'll have a idea on hard starting target area, etc.
Of course as it gets cooler the starting could get little harder..
Try moving your percentage of wmo back until it starts better. Then you'll have a idea on hard starting target area, etc.
cviola2005
6.2/6.5 Detroit Nut
I have not given a thought to coking. probably because I didn't think I had been running it long enough. It does white smoke at idle. Constantly.
I have been running W85 and started with W80 a couple of days ago. I started with 3/4 tank of D2, mixing in 5 gals of WMO/FF mixture. Drove for two days (88 miles total, so used about 6 gals). Mixed another 5 gals of WMO/FF. couple more days driving.
Then I bought some RUG and made W85, 9 gals of that to the tank. couple more days, 9 gals again. Thats when the starting got harder. Then I started mixing W80, thinking flash point was too high for my truck. W80 did not help and may have made it worse. Think I should try W75 or W70?
Today I put 4 gals of D2 in the tank. Approx 1/2 tank right now. so that should be something like 13 gals of W82.5 (??) mixed with 4 gals D2. I don't think that it will be enough to help the starting issue. I believe my injectors have coked. I will pull the front driver injector to have a looksy... May post a pic.
Have you been kinda keeping track of your hard starting vs. outside temps...???
Of course as it gets cooler the starting could get little harder..
Try moving your percentage of wmo back until it starts better. Then you'll have a idea on hard starting target area, etc.
Night temps have been in the 60s for the past couple of weeks. I don't think the temps have really changed enough to affect starting, especially since I have manual glowplug switch.
Just dawned on me, guys... The truck doesn't really wanna start warm either. If I shut it off and within the minute restart it, it starts fine. If I wait 10 or so minutes, it takes about 3-5 secs to start.
I don't remember if I mentioned how hard it is to cold start. Key on, activate glows for about 8 secs, turn over for 5 secs, reactivate glows for 8 secs, start for 5 secs. Sometimes it will start, sometimes I have to hit glows one more time. PITA
cviola2005
6.2/6.5 Detroit Nut
I was just reading through the "WiDE - Water in Diesel Emulsion" thread and thought of something.
I know that my W85 seems thicker than D2. I'm using a stock 93 LP for filtering just like the one in my truck, W85 comes out slower than does D2 such as: it will pump D2 at about 28 secs per quart, but will pump W85 at about 55 secs per quart. IDK if this also affects the LP output pressure. I have a 15 psi NIB gauge, I'll have to rig it up to the truck to see what it does. Maybe the LP isn't providing enough fuel pressure for the truck to start? Like I said in previous posts, It runs great and even black smokes (a lot) on acceleration. But since my truck has a 227000 mile IP on it (with a little tweaking using the Stanadyne FSM when the engine was rebuilt), the vane pump may not be transferring enough fuel at starting RPM?
I know that my W85 seems thicker than D2. I'm using a stock 93 LP for filtering just like the one in my truck, W85 comes out slower than does D2 such as: it will pump D2 at about 28 secs per quart, but will pump W85 at about 55 secs per quart. IDK if this also affects the LP output pressure. I have a 15 psi NIB gauge, I'll have to rig it up to the truck to see what it does. Maybe the LP isn't providing enough fuel pressure for the truck to start? Like I said in previous posts, It runs great and even black smokes (a lot) on acceleration. But since my truck has a 227000 mile IP on it (with a little tweaking using the Stanadyne FSM when the engine was rebuilt), the vane pump may not be transferring enough fuel at starting RPM?
cviola2005
6.2/6.5 Detroit Nut
I adjusted timing and advance lever yesterday and that seems to have fixed my hard starting issue. When it was rattling, it was loping hard and I believe the advance lever having slop was that cause of that.
As for today, I pulled the #1 injector to check for coking. Oh boy... Pictures are fuzzy because I got my phone too close, hard to see in the sun. But here they are anyways....
I have plans to build a pop tester this weekend; may happen, may not. If I do, I'll pull all 8 injectors, clean, test and calibrate them. Until that day, I'm just gonna run it.
Can't really tell in the pics, but the white bits are sticking out from injector about 3/16". Forming a sort of funnel, easy to tell the spray pattern from it.
As for today, I pulled the #1 injector to check for coking. Oh boy... Pictures are fuzzy because I got my phone too close, hard to see in the sun. But here they are anyways....
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I have plans to build a pop tester this weekend; may happen, may not. If I do, I'll pull all 8 injectors, clean, test and calibrate them. Until that day, I'm just gonna run it.
Can't really tell in the pics, but the white bits are sticking out from injector about 3/16". Forming a sort of funnel, easy to tell the spray pattern from it.
Last edited:
AcIdBuRn02ZTS
Full Access Member
Are you driving short distances on your blend?
I had issues when I first started blending my own fuel and I think I narrowed it down to short distance drives and only running one tank.
My truck is in my sig... 4bt powered tahoe. My last tank that had any wmo in it was about 75/25 - w80/d2
We took a fairly long trip and the truck did great... but as soon as I got back home and started driving back and forth to work, it coked the injectors.
Ive now got a 2nd tank in place... a 30 plate FPHE installed and plumbed to the cooling system... and I have all the plumbing to get the tank plumbed... just havnt had time.
Plans are to run straight pump diesel in the main tank and only switch to waste oil when up to operating temp. I will also shut down and start on the main tank.
For giggles, you may look into some injector line heaters or a flat plate heat exchanger to preheat the fuel before it hits the chambers and see if that helps clean up the burn a bit.
-Chris
I had issues when I first started blending my own fuel and I think I narrowed it down to short distance drives and only running one tank.
My truck is in my sig... 4bt powered tahoe. My last tank that had any wmo in it was about 75/25 - w80/d2
We took a fairly long trip and the truck did great... but as soon as I got back home and started driving back and forth to work, it coked the injectors.
Ive now got a 2nd tank in place... a 30 plate FPHE installed and plumbed to the cooling system... and I have all the plumbing to get the tank plumbed... just havnt had time.
Plans are to run straight pump diesel in the main tank and only switch to waste oil when up to operating temp. I will also shut down and start on the main tank.
For giggles, you may look into some injector line heaters or a flat plate heat exchanger to preheat the fuel before it hits the chambers and see if that helps clean up the burn a bit.
-Chris
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