RUHT RHO, SHAGGY. 94 7.3 dissassemble.
- Thread starter IDIoit
- Start date
Heat is my only guess. Also maybe why the goo grew so quick. I will definately put a hole in the deck plug and gasket so steam can get off the corner of the heads.
Injectors dont need retorqued, I usually go 5 over initially then recheck after all installed.
Waystro
No Class
Any updates?
gotta look for a head for core.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Over fueling is your problem with the pistons and injectors. Now where did this engine come from??? I have NEVER seen a cup staked into the head ever. And as Russ posted. Doing it there is the wrong place. Too bad you never did an oil analysis so you could have known if any coolant was in the oil. As for the sludge in the heads. I concur with bad guides. Hest can and will kill these engines. My self imposed pyro limit is 1100 degrees. I use that because I can'y trust my pyro gauge. If I had a pyro on each cylinder I would push it more but only one gauge. Well I make limits I feel I can live with. Running as many miles as I have I know what temps to expect hauling by the boost I see. If that does not match I back out for safety sake.
im on the fence on which way i should proceed.
promar has none of these engines in stock.
N/A engines run 3199
turbo engines run 3599
they would have to rebuild my core.
besides the hairline cracks in the slugs from the turbo engine, and the sludge,
the lowerend seems like i could get some abuse out of it for another build on the horizon.
i also have a 88 7.3 that i have no clue what the condition is.
at this point, the 89 7.3 i have w/ 108k will not be thought about at this time.
this is a great running engine, that i want to use on another project.
and since i have the $$ to get something rebuilt, im really thinking about having a local shop rebuild one of the lower ends i have.
guess it all boils down to me getting off my rearend and tearing apart the 88 n/a 7.3
promar has none of these engines in stock.
N/A engines run 3199
turbo engines run 3599
they would have to rebuild my core.
besides the hairline cracks in the slugs from the turbo engine, and the sludge,
the lowerend seems like i could get some abuse out of it for another build on the horizon.
i also have a 88 7.3 that i have no clue what the condition is.
at this point, the 89 7.3 i have w/ 108k will not be thought about at this time.
this is a great running engine, that i want to use on another project.
and since i have the $$ to get something rebuilt, im really thinking about having a local shop rebuild one of the lower ends i have.
guess it all boils down to me getting off my rearend and tearing apart the 88 n/a 7.3
so if i want to continue running this bull moose, i would need to add a bunch more air, correct?
or is the bull moose really not intended for slugs that are not ceramic coated?
as far as the injectors, i need to get a call into Mel, and find out what he says.
there is definitely coolant in the oil. i see traces of water in it.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
What happened to the moose engine idea? Mel made one didn't he?
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MOAR turbo
ive bugged him a few times, he may have made one, but none forsale.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Ah, okay.
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jhenegh
Truck Still Earns its Keep
FWIW, my bull moose with Russ' Stanadyne D injectors and a eBay intercooler and an 093 with a wicked wheel I haven't gotten over 1100 yet, towing a 10k gooseneck. I'm also a whopping 21 days into that combo. Before wheel and intercooler I could spike 1200+ in a blink. Couldn't even touch OD towing. Now I cruise in it
junk
Full Access Member
Truthfully I'm not a fan of the turbo engines. I'm not sure I've seen enough benefits for using the special rods in them. Not to mention if you keep factory balance and now are sourcing 1-2 year only balancers and flywheels. Now the turbo valves I'd reuse if I could.
If it was me i'd do a quality rebuild using a normal n/a block and call it good. I think promar n/a would be a great choice, but wonder about being able to do the rebuild locally for less money. The biggest benefit to the promar would be warranty and time frame.
I am a touch jaded though as the last reman gas engine I bought had a cracked cylinder and needed replaced right away. And ofcourse I had warranty issues because I installed it vs a shop.
Tear that 88 apart and build your monster!
If it was me i'd do a quality rebuild using a normal n/a block and call it good. I think promar n/a would be a great choice, but wonder about being able to do the rebuild locally for less money. The biggest benefit to the promar would be warranty and time frame.
I am a touch jaded though as the last reman gas engine I bought had a cracked cylinder and needed replaced right away. And ofcourse I had warranty issues because I installed it vs a shop.
Tear that 88 apart and build your monster!
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
The idi na block is the same as the turbo block. Only the oil port plugs are different. Many na engines have run hundreds of thousands of miles with a turbo and no issues with breaking pistons or rods. Reason I built a turbo engine from an na engine is I wanted the turbo rods. I also had a balance shot done to every rotating piece. That included the damper and the flexplate. Never a need to balance the main bearings because they do not rotate ever.... Unless you spin one of them. Then you have an instant idi boat anchor.
from what i read, my turbo flywheel wont work on a N/A engine because of the differences in balancing.
i dont think the clutches are different.
i dont think the clutches are different.
