RUHT RHO, SHAGGY. 94 7.3 dissassemble.

icanfixall

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That would be correct kind of. They fit but the balance is off. They can be balanced for anything you install them on too. I took my na rotating parts and had them balanced to the turbo rods. The shop that did it for me sure was surprised how far off both ends and the mid plain was after only being driven 5000 miles from the other engine build. I firmly believe the first shop screwed me big time too. But it was a lesson that cost me and they have never gotten another dime nor a recommendation for work from me.
 

IDIoit

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got the engine yanked from the 94
got yelled at for buying a harbor freight engine stand, because my buddy has like 5 of them lol.
he sent me home with one for the 88 7.3
got it on the stand, but im on kid duty tonight.
may beable to drop a few things off it as the babys are asleep.
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IDIoit

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engine #1...
supposedly a 100k engine.
94 7.3 IDIT
i got it, installed a bull moose and mister sticks.
learned a few things, and then encountered a loss of coolant condition.
tore it apart, and BAM cracks everywhere.
most likely from my IP and sticks, along with my rookieitus.


engine #2,
88 7.3 N/A
mileage: unknown.
bought it from a junkyard without IP for a screamin deal
so far i have it torn down to the long block from the top,.
so far so good!
looks fairly clean.
the t-stat housing was kinda rusty, so a through inspection of all cylinders will be done if pistons are not cracked/mangled.
kids are up now, no more workie.

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IDIoit

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a question on the valve keepers in the post above.
i see that the exhaust valve keepers are a zinc color.
are these special keepers?
or are all of my guides on these heads, so done and there burning oil onto the intake valve keepers?
 

FORDF250HDXLT

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engine #1...
supposedly a 100k engine.
94 7.3 IDIT

these are some pretty old trucks now.there aren't a whole lot of them left on the road with 100k miles anymore.what was the story on the engine? from a low mile truck or a reman?
 

IDIoit

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these are some pretty old trucks now.there aren't a whole lot of them left on the road with 100k miles anymore.what was the story on the engine? from a low mile truck or a reman?

the 94 was a remaned engine from where? i have no clue, but the scratched out ID number on the block tells me it has been done
along with the .030 slugs it has in it.
after i purchased the engine, i purchased the truck, but with the digital odometer, ive never put any power to it.
pretty sad too, because minus the cracks in the slugs, it looked pretty fresh, no piston slap, no ridge on the tops of the cylinders.
 

FORDF250HDXLT

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what was your intercooler setup? what were you running for egt's and where was the probe located? you did ditch the factory dp for an noncrushed too right?
 

icanfixall

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Never seen valve keepers like that but I do figure someone has been in this head before. Just a note about exhaust oil shields. They DO NOT fit on the guide like the intakes do. the snap up into the bottom of the keeper.
 

IDIoit

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what was your intercooler setup? what were you running for egt's and where was the probe located? you did ditch the factory dp for an noncrushed too right?

30 x 18, 1000 cfm aluminum IC 3" inlets 90* boots to 2.25" pipe

2.25" piping to turbo and intake 2" reducer boots
EGT's stayed about 6-9oo mostly, would spike to 1200/1250 and id let off,
but if it was at 1150 up a grade, or lead footing it, i didnt back down till i saw 1200.
everytime ive searched on max EGT's on the site, ive always saw 1200.
thought i would be ok. guess what?? 1250 is not ok LOL
i now know from experience, and i guess i can say it was worth it, im not complaining.;Sweet

probe is located in the exhaust manifold inbetween 7&8

turbo: OEM 093 gated. clapped out, old as hell, ad had up pipe leaks.

i have a Russbuilt 093 with a WW2 for the rebuild, i was just waiting to tear the truck apart like i had planned, looks like im getting alot deeper!

down pipe is made of SS mandrel bent 3" to 4.5" open exhaust.


AND NOW, THE 88 7.3

i misplaced my home set of calipers, so i will have to mic the holes in the AM.
all cylinders look ok, with visable cross hatching in most.
pistion slap at TDC seems to be .005+
no cracks on pistons
no "030" markings on slugs.
7 cylinders looked like they were burning good.
1 cylinder had a leaky stick.
visable carbon build up on slug.

4 & 8 cylinders felt really lonly and decided to spend a short amount of time with a valve.
its not bad, but you can see it.
leads me to believe that maybe a bearing started to go, or im just being paranoid and both rear valves floated?
anywho, the pan will come off and be checked.

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IDIoit

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The idi na block is the same as the turbo block. Only the oil port plugs are different.
just pulled both rear oil plugs.
guess what, both of the 94 and the 88 have 1/8" NPT plugs.

the 88
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the 94
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That would be correct kind of. They fit but the balance is off. They can be balanced for anything you install them on too.

with the above being said, and if the 94 is not a turbo block, i should have had some vibration, no?
hmmmmmm
guess i will try that flywheel, i never had any bad vibration besides a u-joint.

Never seen valve keepers like that but I do figure someone has been in this head before. Just a note about exhaust oil shields. They DO NOT fit on the guide like the intakes do. the snap up into the bottom of the keeper.
heads were done for me, the 88 heads look good. i will throw them on the shelf for the next project.
 
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typ4

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ALWAYS pull the pan on an engine you cant hear run. Ive been bit by this twice. As far as the valves kissing the pistons, if springs are weak and the oil relief is sticky, on a cold stsrt too many rpms can pump up the lifters and do this. We had a guy at Evergreen that was ,glow,start, in gear out of the lot, . Every time it would die before the gate, on that one the relief was stuck from rusting after being run thru the partswasher.
 

icanfixall

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Those pistond do not have valve contacts in the middle. We do not have a valve in that location. As Russ suggested. ALWAYS pull the pan on an engine you did not hear run. I too was screwed by an ebay seller on my idi engine. I paid 88 bucks for a stripped engine he pulled cause of high miles going back and forth to mexico home. It was on the upper desert open and dirty as hell. Because I was building a turbo engine I could not care less about rain water in cylinders because they were to be sleeved. Sure nuff most cylinders wet and rusty but.. With both heads off and me hand cranking the engine to clean out some sand and rust the engine locked up. Turned it backwards and same thing. Then noticed cylinder 5 piston not moving. Well this kindly little hispanic liar had thrown a rod and felt he got me good. But nope... Got it apart and found not crank issues nor any cylinder damage. So I sleeved it and am still running same engine. Another member here way back then said I should go back up there and thank this little guy for a great engine. Tell him all I did was clean and paint it and here it is. I passed cause I don't get over being cheated very well. Here is a pic of the rod as I found it on the crank.
 

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IDIoit

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Those pistond do not have valve contacts in the middle. We do not have a valve in that location.

i wasnt talking about the middle Gary lol
those circles are machined. look to the right on those 2 pistons at TDC i posted.
very faint outline of the exhaust valve.
 

freebird01

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The idi na block is the same as the turbo block. Only the oil port plugs are different. Many na engines have run hundreds of thousands of miles with a turbo and no issues with breaking pistons or rods. Reason I built a turbo engine from an na engine is I wanted the turbo rods. I also had a balance shot done to every rotating piece. That included the damper and the flexplate. Never a need to balance the main bearings because they do not rotate ever.... Unless you spin one of them. Then you have an instant idi boat anchor.

yours is still hands down the smoothest running IDI i have ever heard....so there is something to be said for the level of detail you went to in balancing this engine
 

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