Rear end decisions...

[PackRat239]

Dont be a *******! I would never use used parts to rebuild a rear axle. Did ford put a used r@ P in your truck when they built it???? I also would never use used pistons, rings, cams, etc... But thats just me. I like to do things the right way the first time if I rebuild something. Sheesh, is it a full moon or what?

 

[LCAM-01XA]

What causes spun bearings is lack of lube. Which is lack of maintenance. Changing a seal did not do that. Over tightening( which he could not have done in my opinion) did not do that. lots of miles and little lube did that. So you are saying he put 800 ft lbs on that nut ? He must be Superman.

Luck of lube in and of itself does not cause roller bearings to spin. It causes them to overheat and seize up. Once they seize up they spin. I do not see any signs of overheating and seizing in these pics he posted. There's another member here who recently had a hub lock up on him because the bearings seized from lack of lube. He can't remove the thing even with a BHF! And here Metal just pulls the pinion and bearings fall out, and intact at that, not in pieces. Not exactly an indication of overheated and seized bearings.

As for whether he could have overtightened it or not, using a 780lbs-ft impact wrench on something that calls of only 150-160 lbs tends to crush things

Regardless, I agree that another gearset will probably be needed. But I'll take a used good-condition factory gearset over a new one made in china any day. That's just me, tho, everyone is entitled to their own opinions.

 

[metalminded]

Ok, so autozone botched it like i knew they could. had to drive an hour to albany to the napa hub store and spend the 2 bills... ouchy

going to see how that inner feels on the pinion and will report back.... cross your fingers.. haha

 

[LCAM-01XA]

$200 for just the two pinion bearings? *** are they smoking?

 

[metalminded]

$200 for just the two pinion bearings? *** are they smoking?

they were the only ones that could find the right bearings locally.... looks like broncograveyard has them for about half that... sigh

 

[LCAM-01XA]

JBG is slow to ship tho, the actual delivery time is very good but it takes them a bit to get the order going. Just so you know...

At least with the NAPA bearings you can take the pinion (clean it first!) to the store, if large bearing just slides down till it hits pinion head you need new gearset which will take a while so no need to buy the expensive bearings from NAPA as you're no longer in a rush.

 

[metalminded]

yeah about that.... i guess i'll have to see how it feels but it should require a couple tons of force to press it on?

 

[LCAM-01XA]

I use a 20-ton or 30-ton (depending on location) shop press for pinion bearings. Judging by feel at the jack handle it doesn't take even 1/4 of the capacity to drive the new bearing on. Removing the old bearing is where the real fun is, but you already got that part covered. What will you do about the depth shim?

 

[ifrythings]

I've taken 3 sterling 10.25's apart all short pinion, 2 of them were 4.10's and had spun bearings on the pinion and the other was 3.55 and it wasn't spun(no correlation just something I've noted), they all seemed to have lots of oil too.

Being that both the pinion and bearing are the same hardness, you'll most likely have to change r&p (or go the ugly root and weld the bearing on )

The crush sleeve was used in factory to speed up assembly time, but as we all know, there garbage.

Also, you should need a puller to remove the yoke, if you can slide it off, replace it or be prepared to go at it again soon (very common problem on 8.8's, they wear the yoke and splines of the pinion).

Check the slinger (looks like a big shim) that goes between the yoke and the rear bearing, see if its shredded down

You must be registered for see images attach

And a few reference pics (there from a D60, but same info)

You must be registered for see images attach

The "-1" tells us that the nominal distance is -.001" for the pinion shim
Each gear-set is stamped with an identifying “set number” on both the pinion and ring-gear. (327 is this one)

And a shot of the ring gear markings, at the far right (a bit hard to see) has the 41 10 (4:10 ratio)

You must be registered for see images attach

lots of info here for setting up gears and a good read too http://www.pirate4x4.com/articles/tech/billavista/Gear_Setup

 

[metalminded]

Also, you should need a puller to remove the yoke, if you can slide it off, replace it or be prepared to go at it again soon (very common problem on 8.8's, they wear the yoke and splines of the pinion).

Check the slinger (looks like a big shim) that goes between the yoke and the rear bearing, see if its shredded down

You must be registered for see images attach

And a few reference pics (there from a D60, but same info)

You must be registered for see images attach

The "-1" tells us that the nominal distance is -.001" for the pinion shim
Each gear-set is stamped with an identifying “set number” on both the pinion and ring-gear. (327 is this one)

And a shot of the ring gear markings, at the far right (a bit hard to see) has the 41 10 (4:10 ratio)

You must be registered for see images attach

lots of info here for setting up gears and a good read too http://www.pirate4x4.com/articles/tech/billavista/Gear_Setup

Ok, well the yoke did just slide off when i took this apart. Also the oil slinger is in about the same shape as the shim for the inner bearing, pictured before.

I think i am throwing in the towel on this, seems like every time i think i have what i need to put it back together new info surfaces contradicting that.

the new inner bearing will not go on without a press... i am leaning towards putting the new races and bearings in and reusing everything else... stupid?

 

[riotwarrior]

Ok, well the yoke did just slide off when i took this apart. Also the oil slinger is in about the same shape as the shim for the inner bearing, pictured before.

I think i am throwing in the towel on this, seems like every time i think i have what i need to put it back together new info surfaces contradicting that.

the new inner bearing will not go on without a press... i am leaning towards putting the new races and bearings in and reusing everything else... stupid?

Drop the pinion in deep freeze for 24-36 hours, heat bearing to say 325 in oven when ready to install for bout 1/2 hr - 45 min and if you are in luck...NO need to press bearing on and that heat won't hurt the bearing as it's not spinning or anything. Sometimes...it works...sometimes it don't! Your gamble..

Ive never had to use a puller to remove a yoke yet unless it was rusted on and that's an entirely different animal then.

Al

 

[metalminded]

Ok so after talking to a friend of mine that is well versed in these trucks...

going to replace the pinion depth shim and the bearings and be done with it... hopefully. the pinion shim is all jacked up, i am getting a thickness of about .023 or .60mm

 

[ifrythings]

Ive never had to use a puller to remove a yoke yet unless it was rusted on and that's an entirely different animal then.

Al

Just from the few I've taken apart, the one I had to take a puller to was the one that didn't have a spun pinion bearing... could be coincidence?

The oil slinger will be ok to use, its just there to help keep the oil in the rear bearing as it spins, as long as its there, it'll do it's job, and the "shredding" that happens is cause the rear bearing spun a bit.

 

[metalminded]

well here we f'in go!

drove 167miles rnd trip to go buy a rebuild kit from rockland standard gear today, those guys are awesome FYI

i have the large race in the freezer right now and i just got done beating the new smaller race in using the old one... only way i could get it to move. i was using a brass punch and going around the outside but no luck. took my 3lbs hammer and some vengeance to get that **** in. decided after that one to freeze the larger race. i got a local shop to press the new bearing on to the pinion with the new .50mm shim so as soon as i get this other race in place its CSEK™ party time!

i have the diff plastic wrapped atm, but i was looking at the removal procedure and i dont remember removing C lips off the ends of the axles... I popped the axles out and removed the 4 bolts holding the carriers, and the whole assemble came out?

 

[LCAM-01XA]

i have the diff plastic wrapped atm, but i was looking at the removal procedure and i dont remember removing C lips off the ends of the axles... I popped the axles out and removed the 4 bolts holding the carriers, and the whole assemble came out?

Correct, no C-clips in this setup. Since axle shafts bolt to the hubs, which in their turn ride on the axle housing spindles, there is no need to use C-clips. That's the beauty of the full-float axles, you can work inside them without even pulling the wheels off.

But why are you using 0.5mm shim if old one was 0.60? Is that what the shop who pressed it for you suggested? Make sure you "paint" the gears and check the contact pattern before final reassembly. Also did the larger bearing press on the scored pinion shaft nicely?