Rear end decisions...

[LCAM-01XA]

I get my rear rings and pinions from the junkyard Takes like half an hour to pull a set out of an F250 or F350, also much cheaper than buying new ones. You can get a "new" yoke that way too. And most importantly the pinion depth shim is already there on the pinion, so far I've never had to re-shim an 8.8" or a 10.25" rear. For that matter I've never had to readjust the carriers either - just swap the new gears in place of the old ones, put her back together, check patter and it always came out near perfect. It may be a consistent blind luck, idk, but so far so good.

The D60 front I just regeared for my truck, those gears came from ebay, good condition factory Dana gears, $110-$120 shipped IIRC. Sterling gears for the rear will probably be cheaper.

Still, if the new large bearing does in fact press-fit on your current pinion, it will not spin. And like I said small bearing is clamped by the yoke, so it won't spin either. The important thing is to check the preload once bearings are in, but then again with a CSEK in place as long as the shim stack is close enough in thickness you will strip the pinion nut before you get the new bearings too tight to the point of locking up.

 

[metalminded]

Also, i dont see a tag on the rear axle anywhere... how do i tell what gears i have?

local yard wants 600 for a complete axle, they don't part them.

holy... napa wants 202.96 for the bearings and races... ordered bearings/races, will be at autozone at 8am.... $102.86 all timken parts

the selective shim ,for behind the inner bearing, looks pretty torn up, do u think its ok to reuse it?

 

[metalminded]

seem to be having a hard time finding that shim online....

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Not sure on the shim, I've never ran into a situation where its thickness was compromised like yours is, so I honestly cannot tell you yay or nay. It may be OK if it's flipped around so its rough side is towards the bearing and the smooth side is towards the pinion head.

To tell what gears you have look on the ring gear for the Ford logo and the part number, right next to them (or between them) you'll see stamped something like for example "410" or "41:10" which would mean you have 4.10 gears. My 4.10s actually say "410" while my 3.55s had it as "39:11" IIRC. Also if you still have your factory front doors the VIN label will have a section marked as "AX" (axle) in the small table in the bottom, there will be a letter-digit (say D5) or a digit-digit (say 45) code there, post what that reads pls.

 

[riotwarrior]

seem to be having a hard time finding that shim online....

Wow, Are you not glad you stopped, and took it apart now to do this correctly?

I can't imagine what could have occurred had you driven any distance with that pinion nut impacted on tight like it was.

My mind is only barely wrapping around your frustration at this point.

Wow LCAM thanks for sticking through this, I've been so damn busy doing a forklift I've had little to no time on here. I"ld love to offer help though I just cannot right now. LCAM you rock helping him out!

I dunno try Ford for a new shim...sorry but if yers if Effed...get a new one IMHO....Yer in for the penny go for the pound!

Al

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Ah dangit, hold on, got a source for shims I think, gimme a few min! brb

Edit: OK, I was thinking JBG but they don't have them so try these from Bill's:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pinion-dept...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19cceb9b96
When they arrive measure the shim you have now and pick a new one from the kit that matches its thickness.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Wow, Are you not glad you stopped, and took it apart now to do this correctly?

I can't imagine what could have occurred had you driven any distance with that pinion nut impacted on tight like it was.

IMHO this situation is a prime example of why "it's fine" and "leave it and run it" advice is real bad when one doesn't have all the info - if one were not there with the person doing the work, nor have they seen any pictures of said work, nor have they read measurement numbers taken during or after the work, one cannot simply assume all is good. Instead they should assume just the opposite, as it is much better to expect the worst and be proven wrong, than it is to blissfully hope for the best and end up with parts carnage.

Also like I said before, Metal followed my advice to tear his axle down, I can't just leave him sort out the mess on his own...

 

[riotwarrior]

IMHO this situation is a prime example of why "it's fine" and "leave it and run it" advice is real bad when one doesn't have all the info - if one were not there with the person doing the work, nor have they seen any pictures of said work, nor have they read measurement numbers taken during or after the work, one cannot simply assume all is good. Instead they should assume just the opposite, as it is much better to expect the worst and be proven wrong, than it is to blissfully hope for the best and end up with parts carnage.

Also like I said before, Metal followed my advice to tear his axle down, I can't just leave him sort out the mess on his own...

Well it's both you and I whom said Wait *** over...but your into this and honestly doing fantastic job of helping him.

This is the exact reason this board ROCKS...

I'm sure he didn't feel it was GOING to be like this when he cranked down that pinion nut now not even remotely.

I agree, I tend to lean to expect the worst in most all these situations.

You have seen whats waiting me in my diff, those nice cuts on the carrier and so forth. However upon visual inspection it all looks good. I've left it at that point till I can truly afford time and effort to get it apart and install CSEK properly. I've got those parts, and I've hoped for GOOD bearings etc. I'll be reviewing this thread and bend yer ear when I do that one.

Of course...for me SOP it will be thoroughly documented! Pics explanations and all.

REGARDLESS you are doing a great thing here and I applaud that, and Metalminded you too are doing a great job BTW, bet ya never figured you'ld know as much as you do now bout yer diff eh? sorry shouldn't laugh but man this is a steep but well learned lesson here! KUDOS for not throwing in the towel yer doing great!

 

[metalminded]

Thanks for the encouragement

Normally i approach things with more caution and patience however i was in a jam to use the truck and well, thats when stuff like this happens i suppose. I found an axle assembly semi local to me in VT. its a sterling 10.25 with lsd and 4.10 (for $200) which is what i believe i have. picking it up as a back up plan to the bearing install tomrrw. i sure do appreciate the continued support, perhaps at the end of this i can put together a how to, or at least a how not to....

this is cutting into my waterpump/thermostat/glowplug replacement i had planned

 

[PackRat239]

He did not cause the damage, that is normal wear for a well used diff that has not been serviced regularly. It would have lasted 10 more years. i have seen many that were worn much worse, and did not blow up. Ever worked on big company trucks?

 

[LCAM-01XA]

I don't think so. Say what you will but there's no way in heck that a press fit that normally requires several tons of force to put together will loosen itself from lack of regular service. If lack of service was the problem the bearing races and rollers would have been destroyed, what I'm seeing there is a clear case of spun bearings. And there's nothing normal about that. Especially in the case of the inner bearing.

Hey Metal, you got a 6-digit odometer, what's the current mileage on the truck?

Edit: on a second thought let me elaborate a bit, what I'm seeing sure looks like spun bearings, which is definitely not normal, lack of maintenance or not. What cause it I do not (and cannot) know for a fact. I'm only guessing it was too high of bearings preload based on that if I left even one shim out of my stack I would lock the pinon with just mere 200lbs-ft of torque on the nut. And that is still pushing against a solid stop on the back side of the outer bearing. He put almost 4 times that torque, against something that is not too different from a very very stiff spring. So I'm adding up my experiences with what he did and it makes sense that this is how bearings were locked up to the point of the pinion spinning inside them. Am I 110% correct, well heck if I know, it just makes sense to me. I could very well be wrong, but that hardly makes a difference to him - bearings are still loose on the pinion and the depth shim is still damaged. Can he run it like that, that is his call to make, personally I'd do my damnest to make it right, even if it includes a rear swap or a full axle swap.

 

[metalminded]

mileage shows 190k i'm off to get those bearings.... what are the chances they are the right ones? autozone employees

 

[PackRat239]

What causes spun bearings is lack of lube. Which is lack of maintenance. Changing a seal did not do that. Over tightening( which he could not have done in my opinion) did not do that. lots of miles and little lube did that. So you are saying he put 800 ft lbs on that nut ? He must be Superman.

 

[PackRat239]

I do agree that it is a good thing he took it apart, and should fix it correctly. I am only saying that changing the seal did not cause the damage. At this point he needs a complete rebuild, with new r&p, or replacement. to make it right. I personally would never run a used r&p, but that is jmho.

 

[riotwarrior]

I personally would never run a used r&p, but that is jmho.

Huh....what the hell is in your truck right now? A new one? No I don't think so it's used...and probably for a while.

What do you do change ring and pinions every oil change or something?

Just saying!