Rear Main Seal Questions

[Sparks-IDI]

Ok. Finally pulled tranny to rebuild and fix significant oil leak from rear main. A quart of oil every week. I pulled seal mounting plate off and saw the crankshaft seal surface. What is with that groove?? That can't be as designed. No wonder it was leaking cause that spot is about where the seal lip would be riding on. I can't belief it. I am getting ready today to install a speedy sleeve to fix that problem. I'm just asking you all to confirm my actions or is there some real reason that groove is there, or what am I missing. It makes no sense to me.

Also, there is also some kind of oil leak up top by the right cylinder head. Not sure where it is coming from, but I will clean all that gunk up and watch to see if I can pinpoint its origin. I am also wondering about what looks like an opening at top center of the block. Or is that a casting mark. That area looks wet with oil also. Is that an opening, and if so, where does it lead to? It could only lead in to the valley area, right? I really need to rebuild an engine to better educate myself on these engines and how they are plumbed. Meantime I am looking to you folks for some clarification.

 

[Lumberjackchuck]

Damn that’s a hell of groove! I did my recently and it definitely didn’t look like that. I’m sure it will still seal with the speedy sleeve and some permatex.

Also that hole at the top there is where the valley pan drain comes out. If I remember right there is a like a square drive plug at the back of the valley pan that drains to that spot and drips oil down all over your starter.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I can't be sure from your pictures, but it looks like there's already a sleeve installed. The groove is from the seal rubbing on the crank. Actually, to be accurate, it's from the crank rotating inside the seal.

 

[Lumberjackchuck]

I can't be sure from your pictures, but it looks like there's already a sleeve installed. The groove is from the seal rubbing on the crank. Actually, to be accurate, it's from the crank rotating inside the seal.

Now that you mention that, yeah it looks like there is a sleeve already installed there.

Take your time getting it off and be careful. Not sure what the best method is. @IDIBRONCO recommended me to use a chisel to carefully split it. That’s what I did and it worked out for me.

Also make sure you install the new seal dry!

 

[Nero]

Hit a spot of it with a little propane torch, it'll cause the metal to expand and if should slip right off. Definitely be careful not to nick the surface and mar it up.

Taking a closer look at the photos, that groove looks significantly deep, like a quarter inch deep. Is it actually that deep? It might be done for.

 

[DrCharles]

Rather than replace the crank, how about filling the groove with JB Weld, just level with the surface, then installing the speedi-sleeve? That way there is a hard support behind the thin sleeve. I think I'd try it before replacing the crank!

 

[Austin86250]

If anyway possible I’d highly recommend using a press to install the new seal I only had a 60% success rate with a block of wood and hammer and haven’t failed once with a press
Great excuse to buy a cheap harbor frieght one I use it more than I thought
I recommend a thin film of rtv on the outer part of the seal where it meats the rear main plate
Also not the correct way to do it but you can press the seal in a spot where it’s not in the grove and be fine

 

[Old Goat]

I just went through replacing the Rear Main Seal.
Does looks like the Speedy Seal is on the Crank.
yeah that is quite a grove in it.

Hacked89 had a great YT Vid on how to do the rear main. Guess he took it down? Sure can`t find it.

Once you remove the rear Plate, you need the new paper seal. FelPro is the only place I found it along with the rear Crank seal. Just the paper Gasket is no where to be found.

Fel-Pro BS15868-1 Crankshaft Rear Seal for 83-94 Ford Int'l 6.9 7.3 IDI Diesel | eBay

Fits Ford / International 6.9 and 7.3 IDI. 1988-94 Ford / International 7.3 Diesel (both non-turbo and turbo, IDI). New Fel-Pro Rear Main Crankshaft Seal Set BS15868-1. 1983-87 Ford / International 6.9 Diesel.

www.ebay.com

I bought it from O`Really`s, about the same price.

These guys have it for lesser price, maybe lesser quality?

ENGINETECH 6.9 / 7.3 IDI REAR MAIN SEAL & GASKET

ENGINETECH FORD 6.9 / 7.3 IDI DIESEL REAR MAIN SEAL & GASKET (S0547)

swagperformanceparts.com

I used this Rotunda tool to press in the rear seal. Sets it to the proper depth.
They dropped the price quite a bit on this one. I paid a bit more.

FORD ROTUNDA OTC TOOL T83T-6701-A 6.9L DIESEL REAR CRANKSHAFT SEAL REPLACER | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for FORD ROTUNDA OTC TOOL T83T-6701-A 6.9L DIESEL REAR CRANKSHAFT SEAL REPLACER at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

I know this is about the rear seal, but if you need to do the front one, here is the Rotunda tool. Not a bad price and free shipping.

FORD ROTUNDA OTC TOOL T83T-6700-A 6.9L DIESEL FRONT CRANKSHAFT SEAL REPLACER | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for FORD ROTUNDA OTC TOOL T83T-6700-A 6.9L DIESEL FRONT CRANKSHAFT SEAL REPLACER at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

Goat

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Rather than replace the crank, how about filling the groove with JB Weld, just level with the surface, then installing the speedi-sleeve? That way there is a hard support behind the thin sleeve. I think I'd try it before replacing the crank!

Nobody's talking about replacing the crank. All we have to go by is some pictures. In order to replace the crank, you'd have to pull the engine.

If anyway possible I’d highly recommend using a press to install the new seal I only had a 60% success rate with a block of wood and hammer and haven’t failed once with a press

Someone makes a driving tool other than the Rotunda one. It works pretty well.

 

[Sparks-IDI]

Update:
Ok. I double checked the crank flange diameter with my 3-4 inch micrometer. It measured 3.747-3.749. So there was no sleeve on it. I then used a 3.75 speedy sleeve from Oreilly's. The groove even though it looks like it was machined in, it's depth is about .004. If you look at the sleeve instructions, they say to use a filler, I used JB weld. I took my finger, and smeared a layer all around the crank, and pressed on the sleeve with their tool they included. It went on tight and it is definitely in place. I finished it up as you can see. I used the Enginetech seal I bought from Rock Auto. It does have a stamping on its side saying Made in USA. I feel comfortable with this operation as it sure ain't going to leak or move on me, the sleeve that is. I did not use a gasket just cleaned all surfaces thoroughly with lacquer thinner and used the gasket maker. The plate was not very flat. I tried flattening it and got it close. I figured gasket was useless, so I put a healthy bead all around. It was really a challenge to fit up without taking the oil pan off. I used a plastic spatula (thickness of a credit card) to work the seal around the crank as I pushed the assembly in place. Thanks for all the comments, it was helpful in giving me some direction.

I still can't believe that deep a groove could be chewed into the crank like that. Wondering if any of you have seen this sort of thing before.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I haven't seen anything quite like that before.

 

[Nero]

Looking at the second photo, at the top of the crank you can actually see how deep the groove is. It actually doesn't look that bad.
Ive seen grooves like that before on old n14 engines, speedy sleeve it up and send it. Looks like you got it installed just fine, but why did you trim the inside lip off? Usually I just leave that on. If you look at the sections towards the crank main cap, it's wavy, hope the sealing surface area is still flat.

 

[Sparks-IDI]

More Photos

 

[Sparks-IDI]

Hi Nero, yea, I did not really want to trim the sleeve, but in fact it just bumped up against the block casting, but just cleared the main cap. I did check the diameter again and it still was good and round about where the seal lip would ride, which is about .375 inch in from face of the crank. I think it will be ok.

 

[Sparks-IDI]

Damn that’s a hell of groove! I did my recently and it definitely didn’t look like that. I’m sure it will still seal with the speedy sleeve and some permatex.

Also that hole at the top there is where the valley pan drain comes out. If I remember right there is a like a square drive plug at the back of the valley pan that drains to that spot and drips oil down all over your starter.

Hi Lumberjackchuck, so from your post 2 you say it is the drain for the valley pan from the TOP SURFACE of the pan? So anything that dribbles like from the injector pump, would run down the pan and out that opening? If that is the case, then now I understand how the back of the head gets wet and greasy. Is that correct?