Realistic budget of a 2wd -4wd and goodies build

[Greg5OH]

Well, safe to say i am pretty dissapointed with envirotech.
My oriface tube was infact installed backwards. Put a new red one in the right way. Put in 2 cans, only reading 60psi hiside.
Put in another fullcan (supposed to only take 2.5...) 35psi low, 85hiside...and im out of fridgerant!!

Jesus man, if this was gujna give me so many problems would just spent the 50$ on r12 cans and be frozen solid in the cab.
Vent temps at 78amb are 58highway and 60f idle. Un friggin acceptable.

Honestly thinking of just letting this one out again, draw a solid vacuum, put in an r134pressure switch and put my 10$ can of 20oz r134 i have in the garage. I bet ill be frozen in there no time.
Ugh $70 of envirosafe wasted money

 

[79jasper]

Next time I have to have mine open, I'm gonna run it and see what happens.
What switch are you running currently?

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[Greg5OH]

Woo! Got thr engine home. Guy said it came out of a 94, so factory turbo engine. Pigger rods and wrist pins if i am not mistaken. But that means id need a different flywheel for it though . Had 210xxx miles on it when pulled due to smoking and low power.
Plan on just putting rings and bearings in it. Maybe a cam, but thats it. Keep my eye out for those rock auto close out deals and snipe a master rebuild kit for a few bucks. Get a nice IP pump, transfer my stids over from the old engine when it comes out, turbo setup and bobs ur uncle.

Im going to compression check mine first to see its health.

 

[junk]

No clue what's up with your AC. With R134 you charge like 80% weight of what the R12 is required. Our trucks call for like 44 or 52 oz of R12. I'm not sure exactly where I'm at with charge. i put 30oz in and it blew OK. Then I put in more this year until my air vent temp and the output of the evaporator were the same temp. I got them down to around 33or 34 degrees. Airs been working good.

I would have expected 30-40 psi on the low side and 200+ on the high side. My experience is all with R134 though. I've seen high pressures up around 300 PSI. I'm not sure what weight you need with the refrigerant your using, but I would make sure you have enough weight.

 

[Greg5OH]

the guys trying to tell me my compressor is bad, stuck reed valve or something...
way too big a coincidence for it to do that over a couple hours. I had good pressures but poor cooling-oriface tube ws in backwards. I slowly bled system down, put in new oriface tube the right way, charged the same amount and now my hi side pressure is too low???


if i were to go r134 now..id need a new drier and take system out to comprtely flush it through right?...

 

[79jasper]

I'm not sure what would cause low high side pressure, while good low side pressures. A little past my ac knowledge. Lol

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[Greg5OH]

also, if I were to pull a vacuum on the system for 1 hour-will it suck all the oil out too?

lol, so guy is telling me that NOW the orifice is in backwards and was right before...***!!

im pretty sure it in the way it should be. the white tip and or ings go in first into the accumulator tube. so the long side points towards the front of the truck.

hes telling me to check the actual temp of the condenser inside the box, trying to tell me it shoudl be about 35F, adn i have airflow issues. Im going to wager a bet and say that condenser is gettign to 60F only..just like the vent temps. but...ill check it anyway, hope I am wrong and its jsut a door issue.

 

[79jasper]

Vacuuming will pull oil out. Maybe not all, but some for sure.
I'll try to find one of the other recent ac threads and see if anyone knows for sure on the orifice tube.

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[Greg5OH]

this is the way i have it instaleld now. the correct way.

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but how woudl this drop my pressures?!

 

[junk]

Is the oil you have in the system compatible with R134? Was the drier new before?

Truthfully if it was me. I'd pull a vacuum. Check for leaks. And charge it with R134. Charge until 30 or so ounces of freon then charge until the vent temp and temp of the drier are close. Drier is the output of the condensor. I use a vent thermometer inside the car and an IR on the drier.

If you want to check what you have I'd just get the truck running and check the vent temp against the drier. I'm guessing it will be like 60 degrees. Sure it will condensate and feel cool, but it's not cold a/c.

Also did you change the shrader valves? If not may want to while the systems down. Shraders are a common fail point I keep hearing.

Good Luck!

 

[Greg5OH]

drier is new. new shrader valve. there are no leaks. sytem held vacuum just fine overnight previously.
i have straight compressor mineral oil in there now-so not friendly with R134 should jsut got the PAG from the get go...DOH!

 

[Greg5OH]

well it turns out the hi side fitting wasnt seating properly. at idle im at 35psi low side 150psi highside, so I am still low. I think I am just low on refrigerant...
When i rev the engine to abotu 1800 and hold it there, pressure will drop on low side to abotu 2 and the compressor will cycle off for a few seconds, then on for another 20 or so. is this normal?


now onto fun stuff, my 94 turbo engine!. I took itnake off and fogged the inside to keep rust at bay. it sat outside under a tarp for a whiel so who knows. Hunting for an ultra cheap but durable engine stand.
Goal of this engine to be as cheap as friggin possible. Im not measuring bore taper, valve guide wear or anything like that. Literally just clean, dissasemble, work has a 4.1" *********** hone I will use and put new rings in it. If the bearings look good, I will reuse them. Re ring the 94 oil cooler and it has better fin density than my 91. And literally just pop my intake and turbo off, and drop it onto this one.

Onto rings- these are the ones i need yes? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-7-3-7-...STD-/191060630571?vxp=mtr&hash=item2c7c19dc2b

I will be patient and maybe rock auto will ahve closeout prices on these guys..


Onto driveline. 94 has different balance so I need a new flywheel. My clutch was toast anyhow so I have to spend an extra 50 to buy a new one over getting my odl one resurfaced, no big deal. I am looking for engine vin K type stuff under 94 in rock auto.

I assume the clutch also has to be for a 94 turbo spec?

thinking, LuK SMF, but I need a better than the Luk repset clutch. I also do not wan tto spend 600-1200$ on a SB clutch.
How are those steel back hi torque ones? I can't find any mfg info to contact them about it..

 

[79jasper]

Horrible freight currently has the 2k lb stand for $140.
I believe that's normal operation for the clutch, when the system is under charged.

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[Greg5OH]

that what i thought too-undercharged. According to their weights...I am overcharged!! i put 3 cans into the thing, they say I only need 2.5... No leaks either...

that $140 is too much by about 100! did i mention...Im doing this on the CHEAP?! hahah. my engine runs fine so no rush. Im looking for those steal type deals.

 

[79jasper]

Well the other thing that gets me, is they don't have a exact pressure chart. Not that I've seen.
One compares a pressure of the ES VS R134A at different Temps, but it doesn't state high/low or anything like that. It did say when they refer to temp, it's actual temp inside the system. So I don't even know how you could accurately measure that.


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