Realistic budget of a 2wd -4wd and goodies build

[LCAM-01XA]

i dont know about the 91,
but i was getting drain back on my 87-90 from the old WFS thats on the driverside inbetween the power booster and fender.
youve most likely deleted it tho

Can't delete something that's not there to begin with Those went the way of the dodo bird in 87, 88 should have the setup with the water separator built into the filter bowl already.

As for capping the fittings, 1/8" NPT plug in the filter head and 1/4" bolt in the hose - done!

 

[IDIoit]

my 1990 F350 had one.
my neighbor has one in his 89 also.

 

[Greg5OH]

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Ok i plugged both, fires up nice 10 mins after. then 2.5 hoirs later completely drained back in like 2.5 hours. electric pump is full..the water drain looked dry, dunno boys?
i read that an e pump will only get fuel i to the pump if your cold advance is hooked up (mine isnt yet).

Ps hood release cable from oreileys was garbage. Doesnt pop hood, hood is stuck gad to fanangle woth it and its still messed. At least my old pne worked mint with a vice grip!

 

[LCAM-01XA]

my 1990 F350 had one.
my neighbor has one in his 89 also.

We have a '90 and it doesn't have that, neither did the '89 that donated our new engine harness... Weird!

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Ok i plugged both, fires up nice 10 mins after. then 2.5 hoirs later completely drained back in like 2.5 hours. electric pump is full..the water drain looked dry, dunno boys?
i read that an e pump will only get fuel i to the pump if your cold advance is hooked up (mine isnt yet).

That makes no sense, when the engine is hot the cold advance is not active at all, and depending on ambient temperatures it often takes more than 2.5 hours for these things to cool down from 200F down to under 100F for the cold advance to kick back in... Goes back to my question about the check-valve, does your e-pump have one? If it's not built-in, did you add an external one? You should have something in there either way.

 

[Greg5OH]

The carrier lift pump does have a check valve built in if i recall the literature correvtly.
But like i said, the fuel bowl on the pump is full all the time.

 

[Greg5OH]

Facet dura lift. Says it has a check valve.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

When you unspin your filter after it's been sitting, is it empty? I think we may be chasing the leaks in the wrong direction, and what's draining is the top of the filter head, via the IP. Which would suggest you have an air leak somewhere at the filter head itself, plenty of fittings on it that could be the culprit. Heck, random thought, do you have a metal cap with a rubber o-ring on your manual air purge valve? You should, you really really should!

 

[Greg5OH]

I definitly do not have that. Think the sschraddr calve has gone bad? And yes its draining all back thru the return line, taking the ip prime with iy too. so its schrader. Heater(prolly not cuz bone dey) water separator drain, water seperator bowl, and already ready deleted filter return to cap.
I will u screw filtertomorrow but ill bet its close to being empty. wondering though, why doesnt the ip chamber fill up when my pump is on? Or is it trying to force wll the air thru the injectors first? (Cranks, coughs revs up high, then dies)

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Dang it, I don't remember which side of the filer the Schrader valve is on the 7.3 filter heads - IIRC on the 6.9 heads it's actually on the lift pump side, which I realize sounds absolutely retard but I'm pretty sure that's how it is. The location of it is important because if it's on the IP side of the filter then what drains overnight will be the filter head only, well and the IP obviously, but the filter will still be dull of fuel.

Regarding the IP chamber, I have noticed that when the pump side cover is opened for fuel screw adjustment the pump does NOT actually lose its prime, even though there's tons of fuel emptying from inside. Last two times we did that on ours we had the truck sit for several hours after pump was resealed before starting it (waiting on RTV to dry on the timing gear cover), and she lit off instantly. We have a mechanical lift pump too, so it's not a case where the e-pump filled up the IP and purged the air while the glowplugs were doing their thing...

So I am not sure if emptying the pump via the return lines actually empties the high-pressure areas as well thus killing the pump's prime, actually if you think about it the fact the engine starts easy and THEN air-locks and dies suggest the high-pressure parts of the IP do in fact NOT lose prime, and instead they push whatever fuel they have left in them into the injectors right away (that's what starts the engine) till they eventually suck air in (and that's what kills the engine).

Therefore IMHO the big question would be why your e-pump doesn't purge the air out the IP while the plugs are glowing for example - how is the thing wired, is its relay automatically triggered by the FSS?

 

[Greg5OH]

My pirge is on ip side-facing driver fender.
I wouldnt say it starts easy then dies, cranks for 3 seconda rolls smoke out the pipe, sputters then all 8 roar to life rpma go to probably 1800ish then just dies. Repeat a few times until it finally grumbles to lofe and smoothes out.
I was gunna check the folter but my damn hood is stuck from that crap oreiley cable! :0

 

[Greg5OH]

very hard start this morning. Lots of smoke though indicating fuel is getting passed through the engine..im going to put my new wellman plugs in tonight see if anything changes. maybe its a compound of problems . Was near freezing here this morning.

 

[Greg5OH]

had it aligned this morning, first time ive seen it driving with me viewing. Holy crap it looks awesome and intimidating. It crested a hill i was standing at the foot of...man...looks great hehe. The guy said it drove really nice, My toe was out just a hair (not bad for a string alignment!) but he touched it up, camber and caster were right on the money, feels awesome now. Just gotta get them tires balanced (45 bucks for the alignment, and test drive before after, that is proper!)
my uhh..mileage isnt the best. blew thru a 1/4 tank in 3 days (the 270 degree auto meter is great!). Maybe 100 miles total...I have been stomping on it quite a bit thou hehe. Garys timing meter will be here in the new week so i will experiment between 8, 9, 10 degrees. I cant keep my foot out of it!
ah, my pyro guageis goign crazy, nbeedle bouncing all over. they are telling me its a bad ground. I will run a seperate one to the frame. i have a spare new thermocouple I will try first as its easier than unravelling all the wiring.

 

[Greg5OH]

got some 2010 new take offs with harness for 68 bucks

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first haul with the truck. Steel for flatbed and backrack. thanks sherwin(i think it was you) who suggested i put the C channels outwards! infinite tie down points.

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[sjwelds]

thanks sherwin(i think it was you) who suggested i put the C channels outwards! infinite tie down points.

You got it man.

What we did on our boom truck was just weld a flat bar, say maybe a 3/8" x 2", the length of the bed, underneath the bed, about 6" in from each side. Also nearly infinite tie points with the hook of the strap being tucked underneath out of harms way.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Ugh, cab lights... Hate them things, more things to get broken by branches and stuff and more places for water to enter the cab. IMHO a visor with them ICC lights built in is a far better deal, and you can actually weld the nuts for it into the roof and seal them properly... Did I mention I hate cab lights? At least wire them stupid things like a big truck where they can be flashes with a momentary switch... About the only thing they're good for on a SRW truck.