Realistic budget of a 2wd -4wd and goodies build
- Thread starter Greg5OH
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LCAM-01XA
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AFAIK it's an OEM stat, it was replaced by the PO and he did say he used a Ford part without me even asking him about it. Runs around 190-200 when left to its own devices, this means speeds over 45mph and e-fans off. E-fans on at higher speed can bring it down to 180 but that's about as cold as it will run. To make it run warmer when there's no real load on it (like, mostly empty truck cruising at 55) we have to block off parts of the grille to cut down on the airflow forced into the rad. And overheating in the driveway while just idling is perfectly normal for this one, would do it with the mech-fan till the clutch got locked, with the e-fans the high-speed fan has a temp switch to come on at 235 and go off at 220-225 but that's more of an backup safety net - typically we can get good 10-15 min of idle time before she creeps past 210-220, so for just running into the gas station and such we just leave both fans off, if we know it will idle for while we turn the low-speed e-fan on and that will keep her around 190 usually. All this is depending on ambient temps of course, big difference between 50s and 100s...
The body mounts, sounds like ENS really dropped the ball there. But yes, you apparently did make the sleeves too short - typically they would be about 1/4" shorter than the free body mount bushings height when assembled, 1" is way too much of difference. And 3/4" bolts, holy cow man, you do know the entire suspensions uses 1/2" to 9/16" bolts most of the time (5/8" for the spring bolts, but that's a special case) - 3/4" is way overkill, 1/2" Grade-8 would have been plenty and easier to work with too. But I bed you chose your hardware based on the diameters of the materials you had available for the sleeves, right?
Edit: just your weight numbers, you're a lightweight - last scale showed right at 8000 for ours, that was before the winches and with no humans inside, just empty truck with full fuel tanks. And we still have the 203/205 double to install... I bet we'll be looking at 8500 when all is said and done. Good thing she has training wheels in the rear, but the way things are going she may need them in the front as well soon
The body mounts, sounds like ENS really dropped the ball there. But yes, you apparently did make the sleeves too short - typically they would be about 1/4" shorter than the free body mount bushings height when assembled, 1" is way too much of difference. And 3/4" bolts, holy cow man, you do know the entire suspensions uses 1/2" to 9/16" bolts most of the time (5/8" for the spring bolts, but that's a special case) - 3/4" is way overkill, 1/2" Grade-8 would have been plenty and easier to work with too. But I bed you chose your hardware based on the diameters of the materials you had available for the sleeves, right?
Edit: just your weight numbers, you're a lightweight - last scale showed right at 8000 for ours, that was before the winches and with no humans inside, just empty truck with full fuel tanks. And we still have the 203/205 double to install... I bet we'll be looking at 8500 when all is said and done. Good thing she has training wheels in the rear, but the way things are going she may need them in the front as well soon
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sjwelds
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training wheels in the rear, but the way things are going she may need them in the front as well soon
Pics or it didn't happen!
Ugly Moosling
Full Access Member
Looks like it's coming together nicely! Question on the front bumper, how will you use the receiver with it flush mounted like that? Do you have access from above or below to slide the pin through?
Even though you have smoke while cranking I still suspect you have air intrusion. The start-shutoff-crank cycle sounds like a classic air issue. Do you see any wetness around the ip? I've seen leaky throttle shaft seals cause the same problem. What return hose are you running? I find it odd that the red clamps are loose, I've installed several dipaco kits and the clamps have always worked perfectly. I agree with the earlier mentioned schrader valve possibility too, try a tire valve cap with a good rubber seal on it to rule it out.
Even though you have smoke while cranking I still suspect you have air intrusion. The start-shutoff-crank cycle sounds like a classic air issue. Do you see any wetness around the ip? I've seen leaky throttle shaft seals cause the same problem. What return hose are you running? I find it odd that the red clamps are loose, I've installed several dipaco kits and the clamps have always worked perfectly. I agree with the earlier mentioned schrader valve possibility too, try a tire valve cap with a good rubber seal on it to rule it out.
ill try the rubber cap on schrader valve, have nto done tha tyet. I ruled out the return from filter head to cap. IP is also dry. I have yet to install the new fuel injection line clamps. The return line is a dipaco. New viton Orings. Russ' caps, vaseline used on install.
Well go thru this one piece at a time till it is found and remedied!
Yes I do have room from underneath to slide the pin thru. A little annoying, but better than having it stick out like a tongiue and smashing my knees into it all the time. Ill probably end up using it only once or twice a year anyhow. I need my knees for the rest of my life lol.
Well go thru this one piece at a time till it is found and remedied!
Yes I do have room from underneath to slide the pin thru. A little annoying, but better than having it stick out like a tongiue and smashing my knees into it all the time. Ill probably end up using it only once or twice a year anyhow. I need my knees for the rest of my life lol.
Only 1000 lbs heavier than my 94 CCLB 2wd
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
Well no, it didn't happen yet, so you're right there! Well actually it did, once, while she was still 2wd, and it was just to see how it looks - pretty much as funny as expectedPics or it didn't happen!
That said, there was once on Craigslist a Dodge done like that full-time, I mean they did not just drive it like that on public roads, they also modified the front fenders to extend out and match the dual front wheels... Additionally it was a ramp-style car hauler with a ramp so steep the car would look like it's about to roll over its rear end, and there were a pair of 50-gallon big-truck fuel tanks half buried under the ramp half sticking out... I was pretty sure I saved the picture, but now I can't find it, it was impressive to say the least (and not in a good way either).LCAM-01XA
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You mean you still haven't checked that valve? Geez man, way to possibly chase your tail if it turns out to be your problem... Btw NAPA could possibly carry a replacement valve, I know they have 1/8" NPT ones cause we bought some for our air bellows, but yours being a '91 you may still have the older 1/16" NPT setup which could prove interesting to find a replacement valve for...
The line is just a line, nothing fancy about it. We always use whatever 30R9 fuel hose is available at the local parts store, it's a bit more expensive than the usual 30R7 you'd use for such a low-pressure system but it's its diesel-compatibility that's important. Additionally we've had good luck with TOC (transmission oil cooler) hose in diesel fuel line applications, don't think you can get it in sizes quite as small as 1/4" tho, IIRC it only goes down to 5/16" - the cool thing about TOC is that it's made to run hot ATF and oils, which makes it ideal for use in places that would bake regular fuel line to a crisp - the IDI return lines would fall into that category, also if you're running alternative fuels and have a fuel heater somewhere in your fuel lines.
My f100 weights 4400 with me in it after the 4x4 swap on 36x12.5 swampers. Lol I guess I win the lightweight award
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
They do make 1/8" pipe plugs ya know And 1/8" ball valves too, real nice ones at that (Swagelok comes to mind here). Come to think of it I probably should follow my own advice here, but need a newer head with the 1/8" port first - then ball valve and clear line down to the frame rail where the water-in-fuel drain dumps too...
On your bumper, I still think that what you have is way too thin. Double-check the thickness pls, no way that is what you think it is. My latest and greatest idea for a fix for this would be to double up on the upper plate thickness, as in lay another plate (slightly smaller in external dimensions) right on top of the current one, then perimeter weld the whole thing with holes and plug welds right over where you frame-mount boxes are under it. Top and bottom plate is what gives you the stiffness and strength against bending when you run into something, don't skimp on them. Then do the same thing on the bottom side, either doubled-up plate of your current materials stock laid from side to side or buy a strip (whatever the bumper's depth is, 6" or so?) of 3/16" and use that. Then the c-channels from the bottom plate back to the frame using the rear factory holes of the removed factory crossmember thing. Before you buy the channel, buy your tow hooks. Measure width and thickness of said tow hooks, select channel size that allows the hooks to "sink" in it. I'll try to hit the parts store in the morning, by the time you get out of work I'll have some numbers suggested for that. Before you weld the channels to the bottom plate, drill some big holes in said plate all the way into the main frame-mount boxes. You need holes big enough for a 1/2" nut to fit in, so probably 7/8" would be the right size. On the channels drill the holes for the tow hooks, then weld nuts on the back (top) side. Position C-channels so the nuts sink into the big holes you drilled in the bumper boxes. Weld C-channels to bottom plate. (Normally I'd weld the C-channels first and drill the tow hook holes thru them and the bottom plate and the bottom of the boxes together and then weld the nuts on the inside of the boxes so the hook bolts clamp everything together, but you already have the front plate on so there's no access to the insides of the boxes so large holes and nuts recessed from the bottom in is the next best solution). Finally bolt the end of the channels to the bottom of the frame rails. Done!
And 1/8" ball valves too, real nice ones at that (Swagelok comes to mind here). Come to think of it I probably should follow my own advice here, but need a newer head with the 1/8" port first - then ball valve and clear line down to the frame rail where the water-in-fuel drain dumps too...On your bumper, I still think that what you have is way too thin. Double-check the thickness pls, no way that is what you think it is. My latest and greatest idea for a fix for this would be to double up on the upper plate thickness, as in lay another plate (slightly smaller in external dimensions) right on top of the current one, then perimeter weld the whole thing with holes and plug welds right over where you frame-mount boxes are under it. Top and bottom plate is what gives you the stiffness and strength against bending when you run into something, don't skimp on them. Then do the same thing on the bottom side, either doubled-up plate of your current materials stock laid from side to side or buy a strip (whatever the bumper's depth is, 6" or so?) of 3/16" and use that. Then the c-channels from the bottom plate back to the frame using the rear factory holes of the removed factory crossmember thing. Before you buy the channel, buy your tow hooks. Measure width and thickness of said tow hooks, select channel size that allows the hooks to "sink" in it. I'll try to hit the parts store in the morning, by the time you get out of work I'll have some numbers suggested for that. Before you weld the channels to the bottom plate, drill some big holes in said plate all the way into the main frame-mount boxes. You need holes big enough for a 1/2" nut to fit in, so probably 7/8" would be the right size. On the channels drill the holes for the tow hooks, then weld nuts on the back (top) side. Position C-channels so the nuts sink into the big holes you drilled in the bumper boxes. Weld C-channels to bottom plate. (Normally I'd weld the C-channels first and drill the tow hook holes thru them and the bottom plate and the bottom of the boxes together and then weld the nuts on the inside of the boxes so the hook bolts clamp everything together, but you already have the front plate on so there's no access to the insides of the boxes so large holes and nuts recessed from the bottom in is the next best solution). Finally bolt the end of the channels to the bottom of the frame rails. Done!
fired off much better this morning, still not the way it should tho. I added t FI clamps on a suspect wet return line. I will investigate other lines soon. At least it started hitting almost right away.
I also installed an air compressor oil mist seperator, 3/4 NPT port son it, flows 1100L/min at 100 psi, says min operating pressure is 0.1 PSI. Ok so i go to experiment with it. Idle it for 5 mins, seems ok.
driv eht e25 miles to work, halfwya thru i smell oil and it seems hazy behind me..cant confirm as its raining. Stop at a light...looots of blue smoke from behind me. oh hsit **** ****, something with the separator I am sure.
Make it to work. Yup, not a drop in the separator, oil alll over the dipstick to block area, half the engine is soaked, spent an hour clenaing the work parking lot, then drove ot wash it-after deleting the separator of coarse. I couldnt tell if the smoke was from the muffler or just the fan blowing it all out under the truck. I see oil up near the top too by the turbo area. I am hoping, praying to god i dindt blow my turbo seals out, and oil is getting pushed out into the intake or exhaust. I added 1/2 gallon of oil to the pan (was halfwya on the dipstick 2 days ago).
Oil pressure appeared normal, so i HOPE seals are ok, boost is ok. Just need to monitor my oil level now and hope its not falling too fast. Guy at work is building me a nice stainless catch can, perforated tube running down the center, drain on the bottom. I would LOVE to plumb this back into my oil pan so i can drain it every so often right in, but I am not putting a hole and welding on it with it being on the truck. Last thing I need are metal shavings in there. Gotta keep the oil out of the turbo!
in other news, I hav ebeen touching 15 psi at around 850F max pyro temp, still hazing some black out the pipe. So I unhooked my wastegate, boost comes on quicker a bit, and Iit will climb from 15 to 20 psi flooring it in 4th getting onto the freeway, i think there is little to no smoke, and I have yet to pass 900F on pyro.
pretty cool feeling the charge piping, even at idle, the one right from turbo is warm to the touch, the one after the cooler is cold-ambient or just above temp.
got my GPS in this morning so I finally have a speedo, but i really need a tach. Have no idea what Im crusing at. Calcs put me around 1850ish cruising at 70 mph.
Oh also installed a 4" diamond eye louvered muffler. Definitly took 95% of the raspy farting sound out, turbo is just as loud. I will try adding an extension pipe further away from the cab to see if it helps with drone a thighway speed. The drone was ther ewith straight pipe too, just couldnt hear it as much due to the farting sound out the pipe lol.
overall, impressed iwth the truck. it sounds, looks and feels like it has some hairs ballz
I also installed an air compressor oil mist seperator, 3/4 NPT port son it, flows 1100L/min at 100 psi, says min operating pressure is 0.1 PSI. Ok so i go to experiment with it. Idle it for 5 mins, seems ok.
driv eht e25 miles to work, halfwya thru i smell oil and it seems hazy behind me..cant confirm as its raining. Stop at a light...looots of blue smoke from behind me. oh hsit **** ****, something with the separator I am sure.
Make it to work. Yup, not a drop in the separator, oil alll over the dipstick to block area, half the engine is soaked, spent an hour clenaing the work parking lot, then drove ot wash it-after deleting the separator of coarse. I couldnt tell if the smoke was from the muffler or just the fan blowing it all out under the truck. I see oil up near the top too by the turbo area. I am hoping, praying to god i dindt blow my turbo seals out, and oil is getting pushed out into the intake or exhaust. I added 1/2 gallon of oil to the pan (was halfwya on the dipstick 2 days ago).
Oil pressure appeared normal, so i HOPE seals are ok, boost is ok. Just need to monitor my oil level now and hope its not falling too fast. Guy at work is building me a nice stainless catch can, perforated tube running down the center, drain on the bottom. I would LOVE to plumb this back into my oil pan so i can drain it every so often right in, but I am not putting a hole and welding on it with it being on the truck. Last thing I need are metal shavings in there. Gotta keep the oil out of the turbo!
in other news, I hav ebeen touching 15 psi at around 850F max pyro temp, still hazing some black out the pipe. So I unhooked my wastegate, boost comes on quicker a bit, and Iit will climb from 15 to 20 psi flooring it in 4th getting onto the freeway, i think there is little to no smoke, and I have yet to pass 900F on pyro.
pretty cool feeling the charge piping, even at idle, the one right from turbo is warm to the touch, the one after the cooler is cold-ambient or just above temp.
got my GPS in this morning so I finally have a speedo, but i really need a tach. Have no idea what Im crusing at. Calcs put me around 1850ish cruising at 70 mph.
Oh also installed a 4" diamond eye louvered muffler. Definitly took 95% of the raspy farting sound out, turbo is just as loud. I will try adding an extension pipe further away from the cab to see if it helps with drone a thighway speed. The drone was ther ewith straight pipe too, just couldnt hear it as much due to the farting sound out the pipe lol.
overall, impressed iwth the truck. it sounds, looks and feels like it has some hairs ballz
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
Couple of questions/comments:
1) did you paper-towel the suspect line and found it still wet next time you looked at it? Yes, do all the return lines with the new hose clamps, it's a cheap insurance.
2) how did you vent the compressor oil separator? Seems like it was not relieving the crankcase properly. The blue smoke you saw was probably the fumes vented by the separator under the hood, if it was oil being burned off inside the cylinders and thus out the tail pipe you wouldn't be able to smell it while driving. Additionally, our IDI leaks oil as well, lots more lately than it used to actually (suspects are front main seal and intake gasket), but that only gets all over the underside of the truck and does not smoke. Well you could have leaky valve cover gaskets, but we had those too and oil still didn't burn off, just leak down the block in the rear corners. I'd think that if oil pressure is OK and with the separator removed you don't see smoke out the tailpipe while idling cold (oil pressure is highest then) then your turbo seals are most likely alright.
3) what exactly is the problem with your tachometer? It's a simple wire in wire out affair from the factory, do you need EVTM info on that? Was your truck a stick from the factory, or is it a conversion from an auto-shift?
4) how is your rear wheel hub doing, the left one? Any difference in running temperatures compared to the right side?
1) did you paper-towel the suspect line and found it still wet next time you looked at it? Yes, do all the return lines with the new hose clamps, it's a cheap insurance.
2) how did you vent the compressor oil separator? Seems like it was not relieving the crankcase properly. The blue smoke you saw was probably the fumes vented by the separator under the hood, if it was oil being burned off inside the cylinders and thus out the tail pipe you wouldn't be able to smell it while driving. Additionally, our IDI leaks oil as well, lots more lately than it used to actually (suspects are front main seal and intake gasket), but that only gets all over the underside of the truck and does not smoke. Well you could have leaky valve cover gaskets, but we had those too and oil still didn't burn off, just leak down the block in the rear corners. I'd think that if oil pressure is OK and with the separator removed you don't see smoke out the tailpipe while idling cold (oil pressure is highest then) then your turbo seals are most likely alright.
3) what exactly is the problem with your tachometer? It's a simple wire in wire out affair from the factory, do you need EVTM info on that? Was your truck a stick from the factory, or is it a conversion from an auto-shift?
4) how is your rear wheel hub doing, the left one? Any difference in running temperatures compared to the right side?
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
I somehow missed that, yes you most definitely win there, no doubts about that! You are also cheating by using light frame and non-IDI engine
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