Realistic budget of a 2wd -4wd and goodies build

[Greg5OH]

im not too familiar with the anti drianback valve on the filters, but it should fill at least the "filtered" chamber of the filter no?
Im about a gallon over full i think, im going to jack the rear of the truck up tonight to make sure the pump is immersed in oil, and fire it. ill let it run for 20-30 seconds (bearings are primed so im good for at least a little bit). Ill report back tonight!.

Actually ill pull the filter and fill that as well in case it isnt filled.

 

[BDCarrillo]

Ehh it might get a bit in there... if only it were as easy as a SBF... just pull the dizzy and go in with a drill...

Did you verify that the gauge will work right, if you get any oil flow?

 

[Greg5OH]

im not using a gauge, i just have the turbo feed line uncapped and a peice of carboard under it to see if oil comes out after cranking. (turbo is not on, dont wan tto ruin prince george-thats what i named my turbo)

i cant recall how it was before i parked it, but i think it took 1-2 second safter firing for the dummy gauge to move. I read elesewhere some guys idi takes about 5-7 seocnds after firing to get a pressure reading on his mech gauge.

strange to me as my SBF will build 20-30 pounds in the first 2-3 seconds of cranking.
And i got 5w30 in the truck currently.

so tonight: i will start it and see if i get flow after 10-15 seconds.
if not, i will ajck the back up to get the pump and front part of pickup totally submersed. If its sucking air at the pickup/pump interface this will prove this.
If still no flow...may god have mercy on this truck lol. Ill just focus on other things, and pull the engine when its a bit warmer.

 

[Greg5OH]

too gatdang cold to fire this thing up. ether alone doenst do it, im going to fill the coolant up full again and plug the block heater in to try again.
Im wondering if it will spin quick enough if i take the glowplugs out. 30-40 seconds cranking with minimal load on the pistons should be more than enough time to build some oil pressure id think..?

 

[BDCarrillo]

Sounds like a plan taking out the glowplugs. Your super cold temps are probably making your oil thick as goo too

 

[Greg5OH]

gooey yes, but the 5w30 helps. the 15w40 was definitly goo when i drained it.

 

[Greg5OH]

finally!

fired it up last night, 20 seconds of running-no oil pressure still.
let it sit for 45 minutes. I dont recall if this is when i jacked it up or not, but i ran it and 2 second slater got a stream of oil!

now to test it again with the truck level (i really dont recall if the rear was up in the air or not when i got pressure).

Ill try firing it again if its not too cold.
this week putting the new slave cyl on, and making my 1/4" thick spacer for the 06 booster to fit on the brake pedal. Then i can take it for a spin aorund the neighborhood

 

[BDCarrillo]

It's about darn time...

 

[Greg5OH]

i feel the same way lol
targeting wed or thursday for first drive. Going to be supoer cold again this week. She dont like to start even on ether when this cold. But the clock heater helps out alot!

 

[BDCarrillo]

You could also chuck a magnetic oil pan heater on it as well, and an intake air heater if your winters are unforgiving.

 

[junk]

Awesome man! glad it's got oil pressure! Very cool.

 

[Greg5OH]

niiice, i cranked it with the truck being on flat ground-got oil after 2 seconds of cranking! this is how it should be! very happy.
Got my new clutch slave cyl on last night, my plasma is being shady so i wasnt able to cut out the spacer plate for the brake MC, but a guy at work is cutting it for me. So tonight hopefully put that on, put my PS pump back on. I still need to get some fluid into the tcase and axles, but after that...i can "drive" it! ill post a vid of that for sure. Probably will have to wait till the weekend as its dark by the time i get out to the shop/.

then slowly putter along doing wiring, putting the interior back together etc. Im going to try to use a foxbody heat/ac unit to eliminate that mammoth in the engine bay. Dunno how that will work, but Ill try. Its making it very difficult to get a downpipe in there. I regret not making the up pipes tilted 45 degrees like the OEM setup is so the downpipe is basically a straight shot out the back, instead I have to make a 90 deg turn.

I have uhh..considered running the downpipe thru the side of the fender, exhaust wrapping it, and then back under the cab. This might prove to be a bad idea lol. Ill get the turbo on there soon enough and see what kind of space restrictions Im dealing with and how i can squeeze this 3" pipe down there.

 

[IDIoit]

id hate to mention it, but using a 94-97 PSD downpipe may save you some headaches.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Greg5OH]

mine is goign to have to have some custom bends in it, so eitehr way something will have to be cut and fabbed. See if i was smart i would have turned the pedestal like that, so the ex housing is facing more towards the rear of the block. eliminate some bend radius that way

 

[BDCarrillo]

Go straight up! Hood stack hood stack hood stack!!!

If you aren't going to run AC just cut the whole darn condenser bit off the HVAC box and seal it up. The heater core is up in the dash so it oughta work