asmith
Full Access Member
That is one **** beast!! keep up the good work! you are getting close.
Realistic budget of a 2wd -4wd and goodies build
- Thread starter Greg5OH
- Start date
wanted ot go for a longer test ride with my buddy yesterday, goit out of the shop, but moved it bakc in, then try to go out-the brakes are locked up. checked everything in the HB system. turns out all 4 calipers locked up. Took the rear ones off, one side had both pistons cracked, other the seals were ,mangled. i don tknow how this hapopened, but stuck pistons are apparantly common on super duties...
well, 260 bucks gone tomorrow for all 4 calipers, but at least theyre new. They have phenolic pistons instead of some kind of cast alloy these ones have.
also i really gotta get the shifter mounted on the Tcase, im still in 4 low, and i cant get past neutral. I know on the bench I got it into 4hi so its not stuck, BUT i never was able to get it into 2hi (the last position out). Im sure its just crudded up in there or something, some driving around to get lube all around should help the shifting. Im just getting under the truck and using a crowbar to shift it right now.
well, 260 bucks gone tomorrow for all 4 calipers, but at least theyre new. They have phenolic pistons instead of some kind of cast alloy these ones have.
also i really gotta get the shifter mounted on the Tcase, im still in 4 low, and i cant get past neutral. I know on the bench I got it into 4hi so its not stuck, BUT i never was able to get it into 2hi (the last position out). Im sure its just crudded up in there or something, some driving around to get lube all around should help the shifting. Im just getting under the truck and using a crowbar to shift it right now.
Love the crowbar shifter... I had to use a pry bar on a toploader until I shimmed up the linkages.
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i think i havce some return line leaks or something, because when i fire up the engine i hear a coupel dead cylinders for a few seoncds then they all start to fire. it sounds GOOD. i miss the IDI sound. Ill be putting those new brakes on tomorrow, turbo on wed most likely. I dont know if the one line I have will fit, if not ill order a 90deg AN swivel unit. Gotta get those pedals cut and adjusted properly too. The increased foot space is super nice. I can place my feet anywher and fulyl stretch them out. It bothered me with the original cab that i coudlnt stretch my legs all the way out.
quick question-how is the fuel filter heater hooked up? Is it key on? or constant power?
thanks.
got my new calipers front and rear todya. I am reusing the original flexlines for now, ill go braided stainless later this year hopefully. I know the deytroit true trac and diff bearings will be going in in May as a lil bday gift to myself. If i get time todya ill try putting the calipers on. I put the HF truck cran eon the flatbed last night to see how it looks...i like!. might hav eoit shorten the post though.
Still have to make myself a bad ass headache rack.
thanks.
got my new calipers front and rear todya. I am reusing the original flexlines for now, ill go braided stainless later this year hopefully. I know the deytroit true trac and diff bearings will be going in in May as a lil bday gift to myself. If i get time todya ill try putting the calipers on. I put the HF truck cran eon the flatbed last night to see how it looks...i like!. might hav eoit shorten the post though.
Still have to make myself a bad ass headache rack.
Key on, circuit diagrams were in a recent thread about the diesel warning lights staying on...
thanks BD.
small update, got the rear calipers on, dindt get to the fronts, but I started organizing the shop a little bit. in 3 weekends time or so I will be taking out the 15x15 insulated room as its a waste of valuable work space. Have to take down some shelving thats behind it. Tonight im putting front calipers on, moving the truck out of the shop and oraganize some more. HATE working in a dirty unorganized space.
quick question regarding fuel fillers. I got the exursion tank. The filler is 3/4" ID or 1.5" OD. I will be using flexible hose for the filler. WOndering how I should do this. Use just straight 1.5" fill hose, but then the fuel will hit the outside of the filler nub on the tank, the flow isnt "streamlined" or do I do a 3/4" hose pushed inside the filler nub, and the 1.5" AROUND it to protect from debris getting in around it? I would need a fancy filler port then that accepts 3/4" ID and 1.5" OD. the onyl 1.5" OD i see are marine filklers, which is fine, but no where to secure the 3/4" hose.
Also how should I tie in the vent hose?
small update, got the rear calipers on, dindt get to the fronts, but I started organizing the shop a little bit. in 3 weekends time or so I will be taking out the 15x15 insulated room as its a waste of valuable work space. Have to take down some shelving thats behind it. Tonight im putting front calipers on, moving the truck out of the shop and oraganize some more. HATE working in a dirty unorganized space.
quick question regarding fuel fillers. I got the exursion tank. The filler is 3/4" ID or 1.5" OD. I will be using flexible hose for the filler. WOndering how I should do this. Use just straight 1.5" fill hose, but then the fuel will hit the outside of the filler nub on the tank, the flow isnt "streamlined" or do I do a 3/4" hose pushed inside the filler nub, and the 1.5" AROUND it to protect from debris getting in around it? I would need a fancy filler port then that accepts 3/4" ID and 1.5" OD. the onyl 1.5" OD i see are marine filklers, which is fine, but no where to secure the 3/4" hose.
Also how should I tie in the vent hose?
also anotehr question about the harbor freigth truck crane. Two place im thinking to put it. Behind the cab. This is a nice strong area, minimal twisting. but the range of motion is quite limited compared to having it on the back rear corner. The back rear corner looks worse IMO. it would be permentnatly mounted upright, unless i ifgure a way to collapse it. But the range of motion increase is HUGE.
Both location would have an adjustable drop leg to help bear the load.
Both location would have an adjustable drop leg to help bear the load.
Most of them I've seen are on a rear corner. I think even the Auto-Cranes that attach to a utility bed are on a rear corner. The only thing I've seen that attaches to the middle of the truck is the base of the boom for a bucket truck. May not look as good, but it is much more functional back there......
I did a Google Images search for Auto Crane, and with dozens and dozens of pics of many different setups, 99% were mounted like this:
I only saw 2 or 3 that were mid-mount, and they looked to be a purpose-built truck. Like one for a sign company......... just a thought.......
Here is even one from the "Way-Back" Machine......
It is even on the right rear corner.......
I did a Google Images search for Auto Crane, and with dozens and dozens of pics of many different setups, 99% were mounted like this:
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I only saw 2 or 3 that were mid-mount, and they looked to be a purpose-built truck. Like one for a sign company......... just a thought.......
Here is even one from the "Way-Back" Machine......
You must be registered for see images
It is even on the right rear corner.......
remember I have a flat bed though.
but still, on the rear corner i can lift from 270 degrees, behind the cab, about 90 degrees.. Im just concerned abotu torsional stress on the flatbed and frame. But then again, the drop leg would eliminate that for the most part.. And I could load from the back or the side of the flat bed..
but still, on the rear corner i can lift from 270 degrees, behind the cab, about 90 degrees.. Im just concerned abotu torsional stress on the flatbed and frame. But then again, the drop leg would eliminate that for the most part.. And I could load from the back or the side of the flat bed..
i did a crane on the back of a buddys truck.
i ran some 4x4x1/4 tubing along the back the frame, made a mount out of 2 x 2 x 1/4 to support the bottom of the crane,
the crane was collapseable, so when not in use, it layed flat.
i also put a trailer hand crank winch with a foot, so when he did lift a engine or somthing heavy, it was supported, this fit inside the 4x4 with a pin.
as far as the filler, use the 3/4 and 1.5.
the fuel will flow through the 3/4 hose and vent out of the 1/5 making it alot easier to fill.
the vent tube, i routed and attached to the top of the frame rail.
i ran some 4x4x1/4 tubing along the back the frame, made a mount out of 2 x 2 x 1/4 to support the bottom of the crane,
the crane was collapseable, so when not in use, it layed flat.
i also put a trailer hand crank winch with a foot, so when he did lift a engine or somthing heavy, it was supported, this fit inside the 4x4 with a pin.
as far as the filler, use the 3/4 and 1.5.
the fuel will flow through the 3/4 hose and vent out of the 1/5 making it alot easier to fill.
the vent tube, i routed and attached to the top of the frame rail.
i dont see how anyhtign will vent thru the 1.5", its compeltely sealed and no contact with the fuel tank chamber.
I do want to make the crane collapsible. I got a 2500 lb remote winch for it, no laboring with a hand crank! would be good if I could put a pin thru the post to stop it from spinning when lifting things too!
I do want to make the crane collapsible. I got a 2500 lb remote winch for it, no laboring with a hand crank! would be good if I could put a pin thru the post to stop it from spinning when lifting things too!
stuborn nut
Registered User
I added a receiver off the side under the crane. was easy enough I just share the tailer jack with my car trailer.
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Thanks for the pics.
Got the new calipers on, stops well and foesnt bind up. 260 with lifetime warranty, and with the frequency of this problem buyin local and have that no hassle exchange is great.
Drove it today down the block, was super fun! very loud, but i LOVE this hydroboost.
Im going to be making my own AN lines, the turbo is too out of line with the valley drain so i will use a -10 45deg fitting to ease the bends on the line. feed i need a 90 deg -4.
Fibally cleaned thr shop so i can work like a human, got some workbenches clearaed and my welding cart is free to move. gotta see whats up with my plasma keeps giving me an error.
I will be working on making a complete front end. Then seal and paint the firewall, put dash back in.
Got the new calipers on, stops well and foesnt bind up. 260 with lifetime warranty, and with the frequency of this problem buyin local and have that no hassle exchange is great.
Drove it today down the block, was super fun! very loud, but i LOVE this hydroboost.
Im going to be making my own AN lines, the turbo is too out of line with the valley drain so i will use a -10 45deg fitting to ease the bends on the line. feed i need a 90 deg -4.
You must be registered for see images attach
Fibally cleaned thr shop so i can work like a human, got some workbenches clearaed and my welding cart is free to move. gotta see whats up with my plasma keeps giving me an error.
I will be working on making a complete front end. Then seal and paint the firewall, put dash back in.
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plasma: check your incoming power. has it worked for you at your new place yet?
core charges: remember to take your part in everytime you buy a part that requires a core charge.
if you pay the core fee, they charge you tax on it. when you return the core, you dont get the tax back
granted its not much... but when you do this several times, it adds up.
core charges: remember to take your part in everytime you buy a part that requires a core charge.
if you pay the core fee, they charge you tax on it. when you return the core, you dont get the tax back
granted its not much... but when you do this several times, it adds up.
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