Realistic budget of a 2wd -4wd and goodies build

[laserjock]

Yep that's what I use for the 4" grinder. Might want to look into the POR metal prep. I've had pretty good luck with it do far. It's dilute phosphoric acid with zinc added and a surfactant. It's supposed to prep metal for POR 15 but says it can be used with other paints. I've been putting enamel implement primer and paint over it. It's function is to react with rust and give a sort of cold anodizing. Is it worth it, dunno yet. It hasn't given me any problems yet and I did the frame and most of my parts too big to electroplate with it so far. Time will tell but it doesn't seem to rust near as fast after treatment as the bare untreated metal does.

 

[Greg5OH]

For the front driveshaft, i forgot that stock driveshafts has a slip joint built in to them. This is nice means i dont need another carrier bearing, and because of the length i think i can just run 2 u joints without the CV joint. But if i find a good pric eon a compeltle cv joint DS i will take that.
also I can save myself about 100$ by extending and welding the shaft myself. Doesnt need to be balanced as i wouldbt be in 4wd over 60 kph.

So ill take my 100$ i saved and invest in a 14" chop saw to make the tube a smooth cut

Also, the rear end i showed-i was dumb for not checking at the yard but it was hte worst pinion slop ever. Im sure the pinion gear itself is toast too.
Im swapping for a rear end with 114k miles (this has 140) at the yard tomorrow. jsut gotta pull the calipers off of this one as the other doesnt have any.
Going to buy a 20 ton press tonight for well..anythign i may need to press. Hopefully the new rear end is nice, but if it has even a little bit of play ill rebuild it.


Bad news..i foudn some threads-and my H1 wheels in stock configuration simply wont work.

However-for a few hundred more I can have them custom build by Stazworks.
They are 205 a wheel. 8x170 pattern, 3-3/8 backspacing. Need to double check again but I believe this is what I need to run them with no clearance issues on the 05 SD stuff.
I like his center designes the most-the 1ton Mod. No one has this style available.

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They would be first sandblasted, then power coated, and assembled. Trying to gt a package deal with the MTR tires, dont know if he stocks these ones. Lead time is 4-5 weeks which is perfect. So im going to work with John at Stazworks to get these going asap.

 

[laserjock]

If you go with Stazworks, don't get in a hurry. My buddy has been waiting for a set of wheels since March. They were supposed to be delivered in 4 weeks. Then next month. Then ship next week. Then tracking number this Monday... Still nothing. Go at your own risk is what I'm saying. Charged up front for a 4 month wait too. Not stellar customer service once they have your money.

 

[Greg5OH]

Good to know laser. he said 4-5 weeks...well see. I do in theory have 4 months...but id rahter not have em delayed so long..

 

[Greg5OH]

love my yard! cheapest prices ive found on almost all of car-part.com, 20 minutes away.

so they got me an 05 350 rear end, 3.73 LSD. Looks worse outside but there is very minimal play in the pinion. Good enough to run it at least a year or two.
This one has the sway bar linkage on it, but the bralkes are all messed up. So he let me take both rear ends back home, so I can swap whatever I need to, and then Ill bring him the bad one back on monday.

ordered up an 05 hydrobooster and MC for 50 bucks from same yard, still need to get the 05 power steering pump. Ill make whatever brackets I need to out of some nice 1/4" or 3/16"plate.

Figured if im running 05+ steering and brakes, might as well get the correct components designed for it.

Now need to figure if i need the 05+ pedal assembly-and will it fit, and can you get them with manual?
Or do i need the older F-superduty pedal assembly?

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(already took the brakes off of the old unit (front of bed)

 

[Greg5OH]

got an HX35 turbo off a gm 8.1 gasser generator. I think its a little small on the cold side however. trying to find the actual map of this particular turbo.

did get these today for free

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picking up an 05 hydrobooster, pump, MC and reservoir this week

 

[Greg5OH]

going to be putting in an overhead switch panel which will control most of the electrical on the truck. Somethign with breakers preferably. might just make one to fit my dimensions.
Building a nice overhead to house most of the switches, radio, compass, some storage yada yada

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all firewall connections will be made with push and twist to lock milspec style connectors

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Will install a spare one for any other thing si may come up with down the road or i forget/run out of money for.

 

[Greg5OH]

Anyone know if a stock 6.0 intercooler will clear a stock sized radiator?? (in terms of width).

also what is the inlet size of the 6.0 IC?

 

[79jasper]

No guarantee, but I think it'll clear. 7.3 psd guys use them.

Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk

 

[riotwarrior]

Anyone know if a stock 6.0 intercooler will clear a stock sized radiator?? (in terms of width).

also what is the inlet size of the 6.0 IC?

Dig up my rad support / IC thread..it clears...but ..But the darn in/out tubes run into rad mounts....one caveat, I've thought of inverting it upside down and that SHOULD clear the mounts and rad as well...

JM2CW

I've got a 6.0 cooler on the shelf here.

 

[Greg5OH]

have about half the rear axle wire weeled down. tomorrow i will finish wire weeling it and get some paint on it. wasted most of theday trying to get the rivets out holding the radus arm brackets. 4 lb sledge and drills are futile.
I need to buy a torch. Hopefully I can buy my neighbors off of him for 2-250. theyres a guy selling a 3/.4 full real nice setup with cart and 50; of hose for 350, but its an hour drive 1 way, and its about a 100$ more than id like to pay. However I do knwo its about $60 to fill a tank. wants 350 firm lets see what kind of deal I can make.

 

[Greg5OH]

Me and the yard are friends again. Hopped over there on my lunch break with impact driver, cutoff wheel and a 14 mm deep socket. Guy says sure knock yourself out. Threw my coveralls on over the office clothes, gloves on and got to work. Thankfully the one with the complete unit had the steering wheel removed already so taking the whole unit out took me literally 5 minutes. Got a few small tidbits, 3" silicone boost couples, electric vacuum pump for the hub lockouts, a rear u bolt shackle plate (have tow new ones now ), misc grade 10.9 fasteners and the stock power steering reservoir. Also pulled out the steering shaft, but it is different than ours, however i think i would need it if I am running the SD box.

 

[riotwarrior]

Damn nice...BTW, does SD steering box bolt in the same as the one in the truck now?

 

[Greg5OH]

Dunno, just posted that question on fte.i wont know about any alignment isurs until i get my house and move in to strip the truck. im not too conerned with the box mounting, but rather the trac bar mount.

Also-do i need the superduty steering shaft? I know its a totaly different (and better) style than the old ones.
Kicking myself for not grabbing it when i was there as i pulled it but forgot it inside the cabin. Oh well ill be back to oro to return their old master cyl. See what other goodies i can grab 2nd time around.

 

[riotwarrior]

Well seeing as I only know that those boxes are nice...don't know if they have same spline input or not or anything about them I cannot help you sorry.

Once you know if it fits which I highly doubt, then you can see what the scoop is.

Me, I'm banging a stock box apart, drilling and tapping for hydro assist steering and sending it off to Red Head steering gear for a rebuild, then I can uncap the ports and add hydro assist later when I gather those parts to have even more assist for large tyres or heavy steering loads...