Realistic budget of a 2wd -4wd and goodies build

Greg5OH

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Wow! Its 300$ PER wheel plus shipping for a custom bolt pattern h1 wheel. Nooo thank you. can get spacers for 2-300.
Lot of chev and dodge guys run the h1s with adapters and no issues
 

Greg5OH

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Pics of the NP205 and 05 front clip. going to order new spring buckets.
Right costs 87, left 30. Conveniently it is the right that is rotted out. Might as well spend 30 more bucks and not have to deal with drilling out 8 rivets.

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Looks like ill be in almost 500 more for wheels though, because I need to get the 4 whummer wheels recentered to an 8x170 bolt pattern. $1500 for wheels and 37" 90% tires aint too bad but...still alot..well see what i can dig up locally in the mean time. 37s for sure as these trucks just look RIGHT with that size.

Everyone gets the hummer wheels with a high negative offset built..i want stock offset, (9" wheel with -7 backspace), they will sit nicely on my dually hiubs. Havent dont any real measurements yet though.


Ordered a gallon of high gloss black enamel from Caterpillar (if its good enough for a 12' bulldozer blade its good enough for my frame),
will be painting the chassis in the black colour, getting it on nice and thick.
Also ordered a gallon of Dawn Grey which is kind of like machine/floor/navy ship grey in medium gloss. This is for the body panels and wheels.
Real simple. Real durable.

Hunting for a turbo
 

Greg5OH

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found these
http://detroit.craigslist.org/mcb/pts/4520389885.html

nice and cheap, but..theyre only 32s and i think will look small. 35s are starting to look right.

Im really split (no pun intended) between the hummer 24 bolt wheels and a traditional 16" wheel..i dunno!
can get normal sizes with wheels for liek 4-500, or hummer setup will be 1400-1600 bucks..
 

Brad S.

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Greg like reading this thread, are you gonna weld that front 4x4 on, or how are you doing that???
Sorry if I missed that, just wondering if thats good enough for front end alignment later on..????
Your right on seeing 2wd trucks that look good on the rust factor, I've wondered how a 2wd-4wd conversion would progress.
 

Greg5OH

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From my research, it seems i just have to drill about 8 holes per side to mount the radius arm brackets and add a few more holes for the coil spring buckets in the same location as the stock shock towers for our trucks. It will be more apparant what needs to be done once i have everything off.

i finally caved on just building my truck when i realized even if i drop 5-7k on a nicer 4x4 crewcab, id still have to make it the way i want to, and its still an old ass truck that will need maintenance in one wya or another. Figure just build one right first time around and it will serve me well for at least 10 years.
Gotta pay to play. But you can pay now, or you can pay later. And its always more expensive to pay later.

my current and most urgent issue is getting a rear axle. Do all super duty pickup duallys come with dana 80s? need the 8x170.

also would probably be easier if i have some wheels to roll the axles along with, some guy locally has four 03 8x170 wheels with junk tires for 250...considering buying them..or should i just get the recentered hummer wheels? save myself the 250 (could sell em later?)
 
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Greg5OH

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So, im in a bit of a pickle with the front being 8x200.

Apparently I can take off the front dually adapters, and bolt on a 8x170 to 8x6.5 adapter, is this correct? The coarse thread bolts that hold the dually adapter on at 8x170?
If so then i will probably do that, and find a 99-04 3.73 rear end to match the front. But the fornt still has big brakes that wont clear a 16" rim unless i grind the caliper a bit or I have the rim spaced far enough as to where it wont hit the caliper..

Plan was to run dually front and rear, then I can run stock offset hummer wheels, which would give good poke without a crazy offset.

Now im all confused. Maybe trailworthy fab can make me 8x200 centers (300 per wheel though)...but then need a dana 80 8x200 rear end too.

This is all getting very costly.
 
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Greg5OH

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found a comeplte running 94 f350 real close but guy aint answering my calls. hnnm would make life cheaper and easier..

BUT, i did find real close to me at the JY a complete 3.73 with electronic locking diff SD rear end for 300 plus 100 core, as to which my current rear axle is accepted. Just need to purchase calipers but has the brackets.

Can anyone confirm if the spring perches are exactly the same for SRW SD rear ends as the older 10.25"?
 

junk

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The Super duty spring perches are different. Like 36.5" centers vs 37" centers. They basically bolt in as I understand it.
 

Greg5OH

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thanks. Worst case i cut and reweld them.

junk, do you know on 05+ DRW front dana 60, can I simply take off the front dually adapter and bolt on an 8x70 wheel pon those course thread lugs?
 

junk

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No clue on the front axle bolt pattern for the 05 up super duties.
 

Greg5OH

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Was a good day. Took the dually extenders off and measured 8x170 with 125mm hub bore.
The hub has M14x2 wheel studs with 36mm of thread engagement.
At the fattest part of the caliper-just before the banjo fitting, the OD at this point is 16" +/- 0.25".

Need to get exact measurement of the inside of the H1 24 bolt wheel to confirm the max amount of backspacing permissible without any clearance issues.

So the SRW 07 rear end Im picking up will have the 8x170 bolt pattern as well and my front widths should be pretty much the same-just like on a stock 05 SD. Will be getting the wheels built unless i can find some used as ive seen on Pirate before. Wheels are last thing I need so for now just gathering more parts.

Funny, the right side coil bucket is rotted out compared to he left side on the 05 frame I have. Coincidentally the roight coil bucket costs about 90 bucks while the left one which is fine, costs 30...Supply and demand eh Ford??

My final thoughts and questionsto run my desired 24 bolt H1 wheel.
-I ot 8x170 bolt pattern. I got 5.1" between SRW WMS and largest part of the caliper. Which is 16" diameter. The width tapers to this going inwards toward the axle. Dont know what the ID is but,
I can have them re centered to 5" backspacing with 8x170 centers. This 250 a wheel.
or I can buy 8x170 to 8x6.5 adapters in 2" for about 200 for all 4. (acutally gotta check measurement son that rear end first).

Anyway, both the recenter and spacer method will net me 5" backspace to clear my brakes (in theory).
cost: recentered-250 a wheel
adaper: 40 a wheel, plus 45-50 a corner for adapter. <100 bucks a wheel.
Or buy mounted on (stock) 24 bolt wheels MTRs shipped for 1100.


some pics:
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this weeks project, just get everything wire wheeled, and brush some paint on it.


also just checked..those militars MTRs are 700 EACH from tirerack!
 

riotwarrior

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Well sounds like you have some tough decisions to make regarding wheels and like you said they are kinda last on the project. Just keep in mind the last things...sneak up on you.

I'd say for strength, recenter myself, for cost, so long as they are steel, get adapters.

Good luck either way and have fun wire wheeling....been there do that all the time got the shirt to prove it LOL
 

laserjock

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Short of sandblasting, wire wheel on an angle grinder is your friend here. Speaking as someone who has now done quite a bit of this, might be worth calling around and having the lot of it sandblasted. All depends on what your time and sanity is worth and your budget (Dollars/time/sanity).
 

Greg5OH

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I have these big 6" i call em **** claws for the grinder.
Its a bunch of really hard twisted clumps of metal and really gfoes to town through any rust. Used it a bunch and it realls is the bees knees.

update: picked up an 07 F350 3.373 LSD rear end for bout Tree fiddy today.

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i hate how short the hubs are on these. Really liked the older trucks (like mine) with the huge hub sticking out. Oh well, apparantly its stronger. 37 spline, big major diameter.

love how fresh it looks. The front Im going to try to wire wheel tonight and get a coat of paint on.
 

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