Realistic budget of a 2wd -4wd and goodies build

laserjock

Almost there...
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2012
Posts
8,841
Reaction score
3,130
Location
Maryland
On my truck, the T is on the drivers side and it is literally part of the soft line. The piece that clips into the frame rail is also the T for the pass side line. Not sure if that helps you. I'm really jealous. You've almost got a truck again.
 

Greg5OH

Full Access Member
Joined
May 14, 2011
Posts
2,373
Reaction score
42
Location
MI
yeha my old truck was like that..this is diufferent and dont see the tee anywhere. hmm, might jsut have to find one and make my own. Or rob the new soft lines off the old truck and see if they fit here. Man i hate taking these 37s off lol

looks like it, but lots and lot sof little stuff left!
 

asmith

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 28, 2012
Posts
676
Reaction score
221
Location
Atascadero, Ca
This is my favorite thread on OB right now. I get so exited every time i see an update. Keep up the good work it is looking awesome;Sweet You are doing what i dream of doing one day.
 

Greg5OH

Full Access Member
Joined
May 14, 2011
Posts
2,373
Reaction score
42
Location
MI
ok most hardware is bolted in, just needs fluid. learned the soft line for the rear brakes has TWO 9/16 adapters, but still uses 3/16 line...pretty dumb IMO..WHY?!

tonight im finishing the brake lines, and running the fuel lines. Just friggin hope I have enough of both. 25' each..well see. worst case i use soem regular steel for one sectiona dn replace it when i get mroe copper nickle later.
PS it flares quite nicely. I only messed one flare up when i didnt stick it up high enough in the jig, so its a single flare but will replace that 10" section if i have left over from doing the fronts.
Dont really liek hpw the brake and fuel lines have to go across hte engine cross memebr but that sjsut how it is i guess, better than on the firewall or supported off brackets hanging in the engine bay. So...we might actually fire it on saturday morning! stay tuned.
no glow plug harness so it will be an ether start.
 

Greg5OH

Full Access Member
Joined
May 14, 2011
Posts
2,373
Reaction score
42
Location
MI
got the rear brake lines ran up tothe master cyl and the fuel lines. I will moun the lift pump on the driver side since i dont want to cross over to the filter side and gfight with starter and downpipe clerarance issuesl Just run a line over the engine to the filter, and my return is on cyl 1 driver side. anyway.

waiting fo rmore copper nickle line to come in so i can finish the front brakes and plumb my line lock in.
painting the top rails of the flat bed today so i can lay the boards on and fasten em down. That iwll probably take me most of the night. other than that, put the V belts on, make small bracket for the facet lift pump-plumb that, run a cable form starter to the batteries in my passneger footwell, fill diffs, t case, trans engine with fluids, run a wire to the FSS from battery, and a trigger wire for starter, tighten down hanger bearing and install the two u joint caps for the jackshaft annnd, its good enough to roll to the new house on saturday!

im interested to see how it founds like with an open t3 flange blasting in your face standing infront of the truck. Probably very loud and cackly.
 

snicklas

6.0 and Loving It!!
Staff member
Joined
Aug 7, 2006
Posts
6,165
Reaction score
2,345
Location
Greenfield, Indiana
im interested to see how it founds like with an open t3 flange blasting in your face standing infront of the truck. Probably very loud and cackly.

Greg,

I would ask of the "Turbo Guys" (Russ or Mel), if running like that will be "ok" for a short time. I am not sure about a turbo, or an IDI with the amount of air they move, but, in the single cylinder Kohler K-Series engines used in all my IH Cub Cadets, running the engine without any exhaust tubing, even being a straight pipe, just running the open exhaust outlet on the block can cause the exhaust valve to burn due to heat. Not saying that you are going to damage a valve, but if you are not carrying the heat away, even a little bit (same as the case with the Kohlers, a short straight pipe and they are fine) cause a lot of heat to build up in the exit of the block, or possibly turbo outlet in your case. I just don't want to hear you killed a turbo because on not having an "exhaust pipe" made from a few inches of scrap. I may be off base with a large displacement, turbocharged multi cylinder engine. But this is just something I have picked up over the years on the small stuff. When the muffler pipe came off my tractor, I heard it and immediately shut it down, and pushed it to the garage. Better be a bit tired, than having to rebuild the engine because I was "lazy" (drive the tractor vs pushing).....
 

Greg5OH

Full Access Member
Joined
May 14, 2011
Posts
2,373
Reaction score
42
Location
MI
i dont see any issues with it at all, its not like its no manifold, just think of it as an open Y merge collector. TBH id love to run the turbo, and I do have pretty much everythign fo rit, if i can can fab up a quick 90 out of my 3" pipe, ill run it for a minute no turbo jsut to blow out any crap, then stick it on, hook my pressure and drain line up, and jimmy rig the boost hat, not running the intercooler yet
 

laserjock

Almost there...
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2012
Posts
8,841
Reaction score
3,130
Location
Maryland
The only issue I see is a lot of soot and nastiness on your freshly painted engine compartment. That would make me sad. :-(

You could toss the turbo on with the oil lines. You wouldn't have to run the charge pipes. Just would have no boost of course. Air filter of done kind would be good, but if you are just going a few miles down the road and park it, that's probably not the biggest problem. I'd be a little worried about melting something under the good but mostly I'd worry about the mess.
 

Greg5OH

Full Access Member
Joined
May 14, 2011
Posts
2,373
Reaction score
42
Location
MI
Tru, i think ill just make a very rough plate with a 3" pip sticking out to divert the smoke out the bay.
Hack, but its temporary.
ok just gotta get a frw 90 degree barbs for the fuel lines pump to fiter and return,
I mounted pump onfirewall, will
Move it to fender eventually but this is quick and convenient for now.
Fijish front brake like tomorrow or saturday. If it doesnt show up ill throw the steel line in.
Also notices the MC flares are just a bubble and not double inverted.
You must be registered for see images attach

Picking up some diesel fuel tomorro, few hose clamps, fill fluids.
need to pack my entire garage tomorro to throw i to the uhaul !
hope she fires and doesnt leak like a siv lol
 

Greg5OH

Full Access Member
Joined
May 14, 2011
Posts
2,373
Reaction score
42
Location
MI
She didnt unfortunately. I dont have the glowplugs hooked ip.
Anyone know how i can quickly hook em up? I have the entire harbess removed.
Wodering if i can jump a terminal on the solenoid to the battery?

i got the block heater om this morning, tried ether, cranks and cranks and kills me batteries. Coughs a tiny bit.
Too damn cold and that 14w40 molasses air helping.
Busy today but the block heater will be on for 6 hours so ill gove it a shot when i return.
Just need the front driver brake line ran and should he able to drive once it fires
 

laserjock

Almost there...
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2012
Posts
8,841
Reaction score
3,130
Location
Maryland
Did you go electric pump? It will take a lot of cranking with a mechanical. I know it was in the plan but I don't remember.
 

Greg5OH

Full Access Member
Joined
May 14, 2011
Posts
2,373
Reaction score
42
Location
MI
Ya i got the facet duralift, have fuel at injectors. That pump is friggin noisy!
No glowplugs and 30f makes for an unhappy idi.
new injectors, older pump but the pump had no issues with hot starts or anything.

any idea how to manually hook the glow plugs up laser?
 

laserjock

Almost there...
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2012
Posts
8,841
Reaction score
3,130
Location
Maryland
Do you have the harness and controller? If you do, it would be easy enough to heat them up manually with a jumper wire on the gp relay like a manual button but quicker and temporary.
 

Greg5OH

Full Access Member
Joined
May 14, 2011
Posts
2,373
Reaction score
42
Location
MI
I do, which post is the solenoid trigger, and which post do i attach a large cable for power?
 

Forum statistics

Threads
91,345
Posts
1,130,759
Members
24,143
Latest member
Cv axle
Top