Realistic budget of a 2wd -4wd and goodies build
- Thread starter Greg5OH
- Start date
hooked on yer thread man....kinda rolling along nicely.
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Goin to try to pull windshield and back glass tomorrow, and if i have enough time stand the cab on the back and start sandblasting.
Any tips on getting the glass out?
The rear comes out pretty easy. Is yours a slider? The slider actually is hanging in the rubber. Pull the filler strip out then work something between the window and rubber and work across the top. Then it should just lift out of the rubber. As for the windshield, I'm leaving mine in. I'm going to pull the trim to make it easier to mask and call it good.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Imo, windshield is a pia, but Al did a write up. I think I could get it 2nd go around.
And yes, rear is easy.
Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk
And yes, rear is easy.
Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk
Ok windshield is staying in then lol. if it cracks it cracks while the floor is cut out, but sounds like i dont wanna spend a day wrastlin with it. Rear has to come out for sure as the cab will be on its back.
and no mine is not a slider, dont know how to start with it tbh.
yesterday sold my tailgate for 100 bucks, and might be sellin my bed for 150 to the same guy. He had an 06 crewcab so i peeped at the rear cab mounts. Looks if i modify the underside seat rail a little bit shouldnt be an issue to place hte cab mounts there. Just gotta double check my heights so the cab doens tend up tilted forward or something.
As i mentioned earlier I am building a subframe for the cab floor. The point of this is because, well..theyre not much left to even weld on to. I replaced 2 years ago the driver side rocker panel with a nice sheetmetal C channel, and fabbed nbew A B and C pillars, so I will do the same to the other side. Theis C channel will be welded to my subframe as well which will be the main frame of the cab. 6 plates mounted on the inside where the bodymount bolts will go thru. 3 sets of cross ribs, and 2 sets of fore-aft ribs. using 1x1 square tube for this, dont remeber how thick but its nothing crazy, doesnt need to be beefed like the flatbed.
The rear area under the glass is toast, so thats getting all cut out about 6 inches under the rear glass. using a flat bar to tie the new and old sheet metal together, and that will probably tie into my subframe too.
I know my seatbelt brakcets are probably holding onto a thread of rust, so those will be welded to the frame as well.
Using L channel to made the new seat rail brackets. Firewall is actually clean surprisingly. and damn, the whoel AC condenser and heater box is TOO damn big. Looks so much better without that thing in the engine bay.
here is my technical drawing of my subframe.
After i remove the rear glass I will attempt to sandblast the underbelly of the cab. Hoping the home depot medium grit mason sand and the HF 50lb hopper work well.
Need to do an oil change on my DD and pressure wash the driveway first as i merked it yesterday.
and no mine is not a slider, dont know how to start with it tbh.
yesterday sold my tailgate for 100 bucks, and might be sellin my bed for 150 to the same guy. He had an 06 crewcab so i peeped at the rear cab mounts. Looks if i modify the underside seat rail a little bit shouldnt be an issue to place hte cab mounts there. Just gotta double check my heights so the cab doens tend up tilted forward or something.
As i mentioned earlier I am building a subframe for the cab floor. The point of this is because, well..theyre not much left to even weld on to. I replaced 2 years ago the driver side rocker panel with a nice sheetmetal C channel, and fabbed nbew A B and C pillars, so I will do the same to the other side. Theis C channel will be welded to my subframe as well which will be the main frame of the cab. 6 plates mounted on the inside where the bodymount bolts will go thru. 3 sets of cross ribs, and 2 sets of fore-aft ribs. using 1x1 square tube for this, dont remeber how thick but its nothing crazy, doesnt need to be beefed like the flatbed.
The rear area under the glass is toast, so thats getting all cut out about 6 inches under the rear glass. using a flat bar to tie the new and old sheet metal together, and that will probably tie into my subframe too.
I know my seatbelt brakcets are probably holding onto a thread of rust, so those will be welded to the frame as well.
Using L channel to made the new seat rail brackets. Firewall is actually clean surprisingly. and damn, the whoel AC condenser and heater box is TOO damn big. Looks so much better without that thing in the engine bay.
here is my technical drawing of my subframe.
You must be registered for see images attach
After i remove the rear glass I will attempt to sandblast the underbelly of the cab. Hoping the home depot medium grit mason sand and the HF 50lb hopper work well.
Need to do an oil change on my DD and pressure wash the driveway first as i merked it yesterday.
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You will have to sieve the sand or it will clog. Ask me how I know....
It also has to be bone dry or it will clog. I finally gave up and just went to TSC and bought the fine grade black diamond stuff. The medium clogs the HF nozzle even with the big tip. I laid a tarp on the ground under my stuff and my recovery was around 50%. I sieved the diff through window screen to get the big stuff and re-used it. At $8.00 for 50 lb it's not ridiculous if you aren't doing a ton of it.
I keep thinking about sand blasting mine and I just don't think I can bring myself to do it. Guess I'll decide once I get the new metal in.
By the way, if you haven't used your blaster before, if it's like mine, the directions were just wrong. I finally went and got the directions for an Eastwood blaster to make my 110lb blaster work. It takes a bunch of air too.
It also has to be bone dry or it will clog. I finally gave up and just went to TSC and bought the fine grade black diamond stuff. The medium clogs the HF nozzle even with the big tip. I laid a tarp on the ground under my stuff and my recovery was around 50%. I sieved the diff through window screen to get the big stuff and re-used it. At $8.00 for 50 lb it's not ridiculous if you aren't doing a ton of it.
I keep thinking about sand blasting mine and I just don't think I can bring myself to do it. Guess I'll decide once I get the new metal in.
By the way, if you haven't used your blaster before, if it's like mine, the directions were just wrong. I finally went and got the directions for an Eastwood blaster to make my 110lb blaster work. It takes a bunch of air too.
mine is just a gravity feed hopper. Gotta get some more fittings tomorrow and give it a shot tomorrow. I know im cutting 75% of the floor out so there wont be tooo much blasting onvolved. Only in smaller problem spots like around the rear window, doors, and cleaning up a few key areas.
7'x6' subframe will be made out of
1"x.5" x.125" C channel.
two outer 7' pieces
two inner 7' profiled pieces with plates welded to the side for seats and belts to bolt into.
three profiled cross braces, tieing each of the 6 body mounts together,
3/16" x6" Flat bar for the 6 body mount plates.
16 gauge sheet metal flooring
rockers are 7' sections of 18 gauge sheet.
not counting the 16 gauge sheet and rocker channels, $200 delivered via ups from speedy metals.
will take some rusty pics tomorrow.
got the cab stood up today, engine 75% degreased.
Turbo kit much easier to design without cab on frame.
7'x6' subframe will be made out of
1"x.5" x.125" C channel.
two outer 7' pieces
two inner 7' profiled pieces with plates welded to the side for seats and belts to bolt into.
three profiled cross braces, tieing each of the 6 body mounts together,
3/16" x6" Flat bar for the 6 body mount plates.
16 gauge sheet metal flooring
rockers are 7' sections of 18 gauge sheet.
not counting the 16 gauge sheet and rocker channels, $200 delivered via ups from speedy metals.
will take some rusty pics tomorrow.
got the cab stood up today, engine 75% degreased.
Turbo kit much easier to design without cab on frame.
Greg I could in all likelyhood take pictures of or perhaps short video of rear glass removal...it's so damn easy actually
I start at top corner and with rounded flat screw drivers...like tyre spoons...I work the rubber from inside out slowly going along the top from the corner then down from the corner, all along to the other side and it damn near pops out. It's really easy I'm tellin ya.
I start at top corner and with rounded flat screw drivers...like tyre spoons...I work the rubber from inside out slowly going along the top from the corner then down from the corner, all along to the other side and it damn near pops out. It's really easy I'm tellin ya.
regarding paint and rust..i shoulda used the stuff they paint ships with..our salty roads are nothign compared to these ships living in a brine bath!
http://www.paints4trade.com/interzinc-52-258566-p.asp
niice, called my local steel supplier i alway sdeal with (theyre local to my work, and 25 miles form my new place),
saving myself 150 bucks vs buying from speedy metals and them UPSing it over
metal order is:
4x 8' 1"x.5" /125" C channel
4x 7' ''''
6x 6"x6"x3/16" plate for the cab mounts.
im overestimating all lengths by at least a foot to give myself lots of room for when you start adding angles in and such.
http://www.paints4trade.com/interzinc-52-258566-p.asp
niice, called my local steel supplier i alway sdeal with (theyre local to my work, and 25 miles form my new place),
saving myself 150 bucks vs buying from speedy metals and them UPSing it over
metal order is:
4x 8' 1"x.5" /125" C channel
4x 7' ''''
6x 6"x6"x3/16" plate for the cab mounts.
im overestimating all lengths by at least a foot to give myself lots of room for when you start adding angles in and such.
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Good Lord man. That's a hell'va project to undertake. Coulda sold you my 92 rust free for probably less than you'll have in your project.
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