Project Big Red

laserjock

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Nah. You just have to set the back pressure appropriately. My research says lots of IDI guys run them. Towing through the mountains like I plan to do its nearly a must. My plan is to set the back pressure to what the recommended is for factory valve train and consider the extra spring pressure from the upgraded springs a little extra margin. I may even put an exhaust back pressure gauge in the truck if it seems worth while.
 

crash-harris

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Be sure to post up details and pics when you get to doing that!

I'm currently looking through your thread here for the FSV wiring diagram. I'm trying to force switch both the old and new FSV for a function check, but I'm doing something wrong.
 

laserjock

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I'm currently looking through your thread here for the FSV wiring diagram. I'm trying to force switch both the old and new FSV for a function check, but I'm doing something wrong.

It's in there but I'm not sure if it's right. I'll let you know when I hit the key. [emoji15]
 

crash-harris

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It's right. It's actually correct for the factory FSV as well. I was trying to get my factory and replacement one to move by applying positive/negative to pounds 1 and 2. Turns out I was on the wrong end of the pins. They both switch after I got it right! Now I'm trying to figure out how bad the PO that did all this hack wiring f***ed me :backoff Can't locate the cab side of the brown/white wire on the driver's side inner fender. Made a help! thread about it.
 

laserjock

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So I started out my evening like this.

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That's a diamond eye 3" psd down pipe. No such luck of it fitting as is. I gave the firewall the business with the big pry bar to give me enough room to get the 3" pipe down through there. I cut that tab off the tranny that Banks calls for being cut off. I did it with an aluminum specific cutoff wheel on the angle grinder. Those things are the bees knees. About 30 seconds and it fell off in a nice clean cool piece. Didn't hardly touch the wheel either.

So I cut the 3" elbow down to tighten it up and get it pointed generally down. I used a short extension piece to make up the connection between the elbow and the down pipe. Needed an angle cut there to make it meet up. Used the slip fit joint to align things and then tacked and welded it all up.

Didn't take a lot of pictures but here's the end result.

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Here it's laying beside the banks pipe. Could I have made the banks pipe work? Sure but this gives me a bigger down pipe. It also gives me a foundation for the exhaust system. I can take the other half of the down pipe and cut out the straight section at the end to put in the exhaust brake.

Need to figure out what flanges it takes. Seem to be 4" but they are not just v band. The have a cone and cup to them too. I'll have to get it down and get pictures. It's a pac brake. Brand new gov surplus.

Long story short, I'll finish welding it all up and then nickel plate it and wrap it. Same with the up pipe.

I'll pull the engine and give myself a little more clearance for good measure and paint the firewall.

On a separate note, I'm not at all happy with what I'm seeing under the cab. I see rust popping through in places. If it's rusting sitting in the garage the POR ain't doing much for it. [emoji35]

Progress.
 

crash-harris

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Aluminum cutoff wheel, eh? Where did you pick that up from? I've been looking for some of those. Standard cutoff wheel vs 1/4" diamond plate ends with 10-12" of cutting per blade. I did find blades for stainless, but figured that's going to opposite direction (harder vs softer materiel).
 

laserjock

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Well, didn't get a ton done tonight but a couple important things none the less. I've been meaning to pull the plugs and drain the trans and tcase after I had pressure washed them. But i just kept forgetting. Well while it was all bolted in solid, I went for it. I've been worried about the plugs coming out but no problem. Fluid all looked good too. No water or anything. Looks like we are good to fill and go there. The tcase was a little nastier so I may grab a qt of cheap mercon and flush it before I fill it with the syn amsoil I scored free. [emoji6]

Pulled turbo and pipes. Need to finish welding everything and gusset my inlet adapter. Need to get finished tearing engine down so I can clean paint and plate everything.

Boys and girls it almost motor time!
 

laserjock

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Tonight's progress. After a day Of yard work, I pulled the engine.

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Then I pulled the drain plug and....

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Yeah, I'm no expert but I don't think this looks right.

I may be looking for a pan. I don't know what the threads look like in the pan but I'm guessing with my luck it ain't good. [emoji20]
 

AcIdBuRn02ZTS

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Chase the threads in the pan... I'd bet they'll clean up. If not, drill it a step larger and tap it for a slightly larger plug.
 

riotwarrior

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Cut a 2" bung from a drum welder in place and dump oil like nobody else on oil change day:rotflmao

Pan replacement for sure or weld new bung in...
 

laserjock

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Trust me, I don't need that kind of hell making a mess. I'm quite proficient with stock hardware.

I spent the evening welding up my turbo inlet adapter. Then grinding it down because that's how I role. No pics. It's not perfect but it's not bad. I think I'll lay in a piece top and bottom to reinforce it and call it a day.

I'm starting to get my stuff sorted for cleaning and refinishing. Walked around sticking a magnet to stuff trying to figure out what gets plated and what gets cleaned and painted. I spent some time messing with a soda blaster my buddy gave me. Not sure if it's the answer for the engine parts or not.

What do you guys who have done rebuilds do to clean up your engine parts?
 

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