Oil Cooler

[mabc926]

Mine did just fine, as have many others.

 

[Cincinnati Guy]

Warming up the end worked for me this morning, kinda softened the gaskets and made the header come right off.

 

[Cincinnati Guy]

Well no luck so far, Ive used a slamp to push the ends back on all it did was bend the clamp, used my trucks bumper and it just kept wanting to lift the rear up. Im gonna go over to the farm to use a press to see if it works!

 

[mabc926]

Yeah, I had to take it to a shop and have them press the ends back on.

 

[leftcoastjeff]

This worked for me

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LCjeff

 

[OLDBULL8]

Use lot's of Vasoline (Petroleum Jelly) on the O'rings and inside the headers, they will slide on easily if they are not all gaulded up. KY jelly won't work, thats for something else.

Thats the way I do it like the guy in the pix above. Works great even under the truck.

 

[Cincinnati Guy]

I tried the clamp way first but I had cheesy clamps because mine bent. Should of picked up some pipe ones like what you have. Anyways I managed to use a press and got both ends back on. I used assembly lube to help. Now I gotta get it all back on my truck, reinstall inner and outer fender add oil, refill the coolant and hope it don't leak anymore! Gotta try to get it done today.

 

[Cincinnati Guy]

Got it all back together started up, no leaks! Although at first it ran bad because of the oil running out before, I suppose to prime the system with the oil. Now it dont seem to be running right. It has no smoke out the tailpipe, but making a sound through the intake. Hopefully its just an injector and not no internal engine problems. I ran the motor only a few seconds once I noticed the oil was spewing out the motor.

 

[Cincinnati Guy]

Well I can say I have more experience beings I rebuilt the oil cooler, know I can use that knowledge to help out other oilburners when it comes there time for a oil cooler rebuild. I've learned a lot in the 3 years I've had an idi. Anyways the oilcooler seems fine. Ended up getting a 2 for one, apparently when I took it for a test drive the wheel bearing went bye bye, there went another $60 for wheel bearings and all.


Rebuilt oil cooler
New antifreeze with 2 pints napa kool
New rotella oil and filter
New driver side wheel bearings. Had to cut old bearing off!

All was done in about 2.5 days!

 

[Agnem]

6.0 liter guys are deleting their oil coolers? That sounds REALLY dumb. Unless they have so much problems with their oil coolers it makes the engines really unreliable. I look at it this way, at full throttle your oil is squirting on the back sides of pistons that are at 1200 degrees or more. Just like a steam locomotive crown sheet, those oil cooling jets could be the only thing keeping your pistons in solid form. A portion of that heat gets transfered right to the oil, and you have super hot oil raining down into the oil pan. That oil has to be under 400 degrees, or it's not oil. It's fire! That oil is then sucked up and exchanges it's heat with water that is at 180 degrees, which hopefully takes about 50% of the heat out of the oil before it gets spit back on the pistons in under 10 seconds. Based on my observations of lube temp in the Moose Truck, the oil temp and water temp are always farily close so this means our coolers are doing a great job. I can't imagine any external cooler handling the volume or that kind of efficience in such a compact space.

 

[snicklas]

I would have to agree with NOT deleting the oil cooler on the 6.0. I know that guys are eliminating the EGR Cooler on the 6.0. The coolant flow is thru the oil cooler, and then to the EGR cooler. With the contaminates that can be in the coolant, the oil cooler will plug, causing the EGR cooler to be starved of coolant, which causes the EGR Cooler to overheat, to the point the solder in the EGR Cooler melts, which causes the EGR to leak coolant into the intake air path. I am at the recommended service interval for the coolant, and I need to change it out, and I plan on putting a coolant filter in when I have the system emptied. There is a casting sand in the block from the forging process, and like all pickup diesels, should have had a coolant filter from the factory..... but..... I know that keeping the coolant clean helps to keep the oil and EGR coolers clean, and helps to eliminate the overheat/leak issue. This is why most 6.0 owners change out the EGR and OIL coolers at the same time, or if they do and EGR delete, they change out the oil cooler while they are in there, since it is not easy to get to. The EGR Cooler is buried externally, under the turbo and the intake (Has a "horseshoe" shaped intake similar to and IDI and the OIL cooler is inside the valley of the engine under the oil filter in the oil filter/oil cooler housing, not external like the IDI. It is in the same "compartment" as the HPOP resevoir, which is cast into the top of the block, at the front of the valley.

 

[Camarogenius]

My oil is milky-grey. There's no unusual pressure in the radiator, and there's no chugging white smoke that would lead me to suspect a cracked block, or head, or a blown head gasket. Is there anything else I should look at before I go after the oil cooler?

I'm fixing it so I can sell it. If it's gonna be too much of a headache, I'll just drive it across the scales.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Cincinnati Guy]

I dunno if its just me, but I think im using a bit of coolant now!