Oil Cooler

Cincinnati Guy

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Oh boy I think its leaking oil!!! I just recently (Today) developed a pretty good leak on my truck. It looks like its coming from the oil cooler, where the cooler mates up with the block. Never rebuilt an oil cooler. Whats this gonna cost me? Are parts available? How can I make sure its really leaking?
 

icanfixall

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First off look at just under the valve covers for oil running down. Usually the valve cover gaskets leak before the oil cooler does. If no oil is found running down try to tighten up the cooler header bolts. The front is 9/16 hex and the rear is 5/16 hex. All the o-rings are available as are the base gaskets. This can be a tuff job the first time too. The motor needs to be lifted but don't use the bottom of the pan for a lifting place. Use the edge of the pan at the block connection.
 

Cincinnati Guy

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Here is a picture of the front of the oil cooler.

Looks like the oil is running right out it.

You must be registered for see images attach
 

bigoilburner19

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well i would still yank it but that is me more access no messin around with a fender and a core support but a friend of mine who still has his 7.3 he went through his driver side fender he had a heck of a time but most of it was the old age of the truck stuck bolts etc. so he just lifted the motor and done it like that but i know someone will correct me if it is easy or harder to do.
 

mabc926

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I just got my oil cooler back on today, and it was easier then everyone says.

All I had to do was take off my driver side fender and my header (but I have a side mounted turbo so you might not have too)

Also to get more room you can take off your steering shaft.

I think the hardest thing was just getting the ends pressed back on the cooler it's self.

Here are the ford parts numbers, I went to a ford dealer ship and they had the parts in stock, cost me like 46 bucks for everything.

FORD:
2 - Oil cooler O rings Ford 1C3Z-6K649-BA
2 - Oil cooler O rings Ford 1C3Z-6C610-BA
1 - Oil cooler gasket Ford E3TZ-6A636-G
1 - Oil cooler gasket Ford E3TZ-6A636-H
 

icanfixall

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You can remove the exhaust manifold too but that may cause some broken bolts.... Nobody wants to try to remove those if they break off in the heads. Usually the motor mount is in the way so it has to be removed first. Then jack up the motor till the fan touches the shroud and try to remove the cooler. If it wont clear unbolt the shroud from the radiator and try to lift the motor more. No... We can't remove the oil coolers and run something else. Too many oil passages and coolant passages to block off. Plus the oil regulating valve in in the rear header. Without that you will over pressureize the motor and blow off the oil filter. That was done once here.... Not fun either...
 

George D.

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I'm lazy if there aint an internal leak unbolt it clean up the mateing surface in put it back on with new gaskets but at the same time that could be harder than if you remove it. one of the guys at work has some magic lube he puts on the orings and presses them on by hand of couse thats on 466 coolers wich are a bit easyer. I've never used a press just a snapon rubber dead blow and all my pent up frustration and anger.
 

mabc926

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Yeah, if your manifold has been on there awhile I wouldn't recommend taking it off without being ready to dill out broken bolts.

I had my manifold off a few times before, and coated the bolts with anti seize, so it was a walk in the park getting them back off.
 

Dsl_Dog_Treat

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I just got my oil cooler back on today, and it was easier then everyone says.


Yup. I've hade pretty good luck with a few extensions thru the inner fender with a wobble socket, remove the drivers side motor mount nuts, lift the motor up 3" and the entire cooler assembly will roll right out over the crossmember.;Sweet
 

87crewdually

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^^^^^^^Like diesel dog catcher saids.

It appears your leak is coming from the o-ring (oil running down from the area), so a complete removal and replacement of o-rings and gaskets are in order.
 
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