New IP Installed, Timing ? bolt torque ? and pyrometer and what are these parts?

[TDI]

Hello,

I just installed a Conestoga Diesel baby moose pump on my 1985 F250. The pump is awesome and unless I did something wrong, the installation was smooth and easier then I expected. I have a pyrometer and water temp gauge to install, that may be harder for me to install than the pump.

Removing the old pump went smoothly. When I installed the new IP I did not do it with the hard fuel lines on, I wanted the new pump to slide in smoothly and squarely without having to wrestle it in place. You can install the lower two fuel lines first but the others I would leave off and install one at a time after the pump is set.

You need to install the top center mounting bolt on to the stud when you partially slide the pump into position, after the pump is fully seated you cant fit this nut on to the stud, that explains why mine was missing.

Starting the truck with the new pump went well, cracked a few fuel lines open at the injectors and it took 40 seconds of cranking to fire up the truck. It ran at very high idle RPM's but then settled down after three minutes. The idle is still noticeably higher and the truck is louder. I am not sure if my partially broken accelerator cable is contributing to the problem or if I installed the return springs correctly and they are hanging up on something.

I ordered a new accelerator cable, I'd like to time it myself once thats installed , but how?

QUESTION ON TORQUE AND SMALL PARTS:

I may have over torqued the three 16 point bolts that hold the pump inside the gear housing - should I re-do this??

The CD baby moose pump came with an O ring and a small steel rod about 1" long, where were these supposed to go? In the heat of wanting to finish this job I failed to stop and call Mel or ask here!!

Thanks.

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[Ugly Moosling]

The o-ring is for the brass inlet fitting that threads into the 'nose cone' in the middle of all of the injection lines. The pin is only for C6 equipped trucks and goes through the hole in the end of the throttle shaft to control the vacuum modulator thingy. I'd personally only redo the 12pt bolts if you had under torqued them.

 

[icanfixall]

The torque on those 3 drive bolts with the 5/16 12 point hex is 25 ft lbs. This may seem like a lot for such a tint bolt but. the are hardened bolts and exactly the same bolt as the universal joint bolts. In fact Napa sells a nice u joint repair kit that has these bolts in it. So now you know where to buy them. Timing the pump is very important. If you are close to Mel have him time it. If not ask around for timing information. Arent those mounting studs fun to learn how the lines and pump connects to the housing. Please make sure all 4 of those vibration line clamps are reinstalled on the hard lines. If they are not installed you will break lines from the fuel pulse vibrations created by the injection pump. I learned this the hard and $400.00 expensive way many years ago.

 

[TDI]

Thanks for reminding me about the 4 vibration clamps, they are on my workbench and I seriously thought about not re-installing them. The mounting stud clearance I just happened to notice when trying to fit a missing nut on to the stud when the old pump was in place

 

[icanfixall]

Wow you were saved a real mess there. Its nearly impossible to make the short bolts work once everything is back together. I finally gave up and lengthened the bolts to either 3/4 or 1 inch long. Then use some electrical tape to hold the nut in the open combo wrench. I also found a small pair of needle nose vice grips holds the clamp parts and rubber together better than fingers.