IP, Head gaskets, water pump and t-stat, in frame, in Van....

[rockbender]

impressive! I'm bummed to hear that the passenger side valve cover doesn't come off without removing the injectors. I just replaced injectors and was hoping to not have to crack that seal and/or deal with the return lines in order to replace the valve cover gaskets. I guess I'll see if there happen to be any differences between my '84 and your '85 . I've got a turbo to deal with too... ugh. Maybe I'll just deal with the oil leaks!

Thanks for the great photos!

Edit for a question: Did you have coolant in your oil, oil in your coolant, white smoke, or ? What exactly prompted you to do the HG replacement?

 

[IDIDieselJohn]

Drivers side head gasket was leaking a quart of oil every 300 miles. Wasn't blown, just leaking oil, and **** coolant at the back corner if I would run it up on the governor.


I bought it in December last year with it leaking like this, and been driving it like that ever since, just keep adding 2 quarts of oil every fill up!



No mixing of coolant/oil or else I woulda stopped driving it.


And no smoke at all, only a little puff of blue upon cold start, that was it.

 

[SparkandFire]

Jon, you've got my respect and admiration...




I did spark plugs on my 5.4 triton van when I bought it, it was kind of interesting doing it in a rain storm from the doghouse side of things... Only time I got rained on was walking from the van to the toolbox to get just about every swivel and extension I own, as well as mirrors and magnets and three different maglites.

I started a write up on 2 valve triton spark plug replacement but abandoned the effort after realizing that anyone who read it would think I was writing some sick, cruel manifesto for torturing terrorists...

 

[GenLightening]

You need that bolt/drain for the VP to hold it down. It also routes any fluids down to the back of the block. Without it, any leaking fluids will go in to the engine. Shouldn't be too hard to replace. And the IP will only go back in one way the pin in the gear will align it. You didn't remove the housing and gear so no worries! Good job so far!

 

[IDIDieselJohn]

Well got my heads back already. They checked for cracks, and did a vacuum test on the valves. All valves were sealing at 100%, no cracks in the head, but one was warped abit, and the other had a pretty bad twist in it.

So they both got machined down, and cleaned up, and 480$ later, got 'em back home, and ready to re-install.


Have to clean the top end of the block first.

Also got my Water pump in today from rockauto, huge box full of bubble bags for 1 pump.

 

[IDIDieselJohn]

So I cleaned up the top of the block today, and all the carbon off the pistons etc.

And 1 piston, seems to have a hairline crack at the top, pretty much in the middle of it. It's hard to tell for sure if it is a crack, but I can't see what else it can be. I'll post a pic of it next week when I get back from long weekend vacation.


Anyone have an idea what would cause a piston to crack at the top like that?

 

[riotwarrior]

.........Anyone have an idea what would cause a piston to crack at the top like that?

HEAT stress....these are somewhat normal to see from what I HEAR...though I don't like that idea...

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

what does getting the head pressure tested check for?

 

[Black dawg]

Well got my heads back already. They checked for cracks, and did a vacuum test on the valves. All valves were sealing at 100%, no cracks in the head, but one was warped abit, and the other had a pretty bad twist in it.

So they both got machined down, and cleaned up, and 480$ later, got 'em back home, and ready to re-install.


Have to clean the top end of the block first.

Also got my Water pump in today from rockauto, huge box full of bubble bags for 1 pump.

the machine shop charged you that for a suck and a shave?

 

[idi_econoline]

Dang, Jon ~~ thought I was going to be next to try this madness of in-frame stuff, as my engine started well after my head gasket, etc.

But, I also got a thumping sound, identified in another thread as an intake valve. My buddy was talking in-frame head removal.

Amazingly, when hydro-idi stopped by this evening, I started it up. It let out like 3 thumps, then ran beautifully for 15-20 minutes with nothing unusual.

So, sorry, looks like you get to keep all the respect and attention here.... amazing work you're doing!!!!

 

[X-NRCan_IDI]

What shop did you bring the heads to John?

 

[IDIDieselJohn]

Hosie and Brown.

Nice to see another fellow IDI'er in Ottawa!


And That 92 F350 of yours, comes from the Windchester Auction, I remember it, it was there along with another white 89 F350 just like it, with 57k km on it. I still remember what they both sold for to I wanted the 89, but went way out of my budget. What area of Ottawa are you in?

AND, whenever you replace your AM only radio...I want it! If you want, we can do an equal trade for a CD player one if your interested. Works great, comes out of one of my parts truck, I have no use for it, i'm a cassette kinda guy







And UPDATE, heads are both back on, and torqued down.

Step 1 - Torque to 40lbs, in a circle partern
Step 2 - 70lbs
Step 3 - 80lbs
Step 4- repeat step 3.



Now I have a good question.


I am replacing, err rather updating the old style 6.9 rocker arms to the 7.3 ones.


Anything special I need to know about putting them on my 6.9 other than the torque? They're off a used junk yard 7.3 witch looked really low miles or rebuilt.

All my push rods are all back in, in there original position.

 

[IDIDieselJohn]

And for those who never seen the difference between the 2 rocker arms,

here

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[riotwarrior]

Ya there is something about some part being at 11 oclock when torquing rockers others hopefully will chime in...cause I got's no clue what thats about....*****

 

[icanfixall]

Having the timing marks at the 11 oclock position keeps all the pistons below top dead center. That way if any of the lifters have pumped up they wont shove the valves into the pistons if they were at top dead center. Many have gotten away with not setting the timing marks at 11 oclock but why rist it.
Now about that broken drain in the rear of the valley pan area. You absulutly need that to hold down the pan. If its not there crap wil leak into the engine and oil will spew out of there. Pour some water into the hole. See it drain out the bellhousing flange and run down on the starter. Thats the normal way it drains and its a horrible crude setup. Nothing can be down about it but keep the fuel system dry on top of the engine. I have many of those simple nut drains. I found out Ford and International was dropping them from inventory... Go figure... they get lost more than they get broken. So I have 12% of what Ford had in stock. Pm me if you need a new in the bag drain plug holddown bolt....