Coolant is Black as OIL.

[91f2504x4]

I have always heard the older coolers had 6 o-rings but only for the first couple years or so, after that everything is 4 ring. 8v, I don't see how you got yours back together the way you did, I used the bottom of a tractor and a 12 ton bottle jack to reassemble mine and I had to do it very easily. I used a very fine emory cloth to clean up the surface s inside of the headers where the o-rings went and then covered them in vaseline, I also covered the orings in vaseline, and then pushed it together with the jack against the bottom of the tractor. I could tell it was even beginning to take some weight off the tires before it finally seated the o-rings into the headers. I went very easily though because I didn't want all the weight to slam it together when it finally did seat.

 

[8v-of-fury]

Here's what the gaskets looked like when i pulled them off the truck after screwing up.. Didn't document the first time..didn't figure i'd screw it up

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After I cleaned them up real good with a wire Brush. What is the little spring loaded deal in the bottom left of the gasket area on the oil filter header?

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The top dirty two are what came off the truck, the thick one was on the inner side of the cooler tube (second picture) and the orange smaller one came off where the black one is in the second picture. I got four of the first picture bottoms. It seems i needed two of those and two thicker ones... CRAP lol. Ford won't take them back do you think?

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As you can see there is clearly a difference between the two sizes.. I will have to go back to ford tomorrow on my lunch and see if they won't take them back and give me the 6C610 ones i need eh?

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I am kind of letting the truck sit over night and drain any thing left in the ports so when i go to put it back together this time all will work in my favour.. lmao this has been a major PITA but what would I have learnt if it went in easy right? I love doing stuff the hard way if I have the time

Why not a pic of the truck I am working on?? lol

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[8v-of-fury]

"8v, I don't see how you got yours back together the way you did, I used the bottom of a tractor and a 12 ton bottle jack to reassemble mine and I had to do it very easily."

I don't see how i did it either... and if it has to be pressed... There is no way im getting it back in the truck.. it did NOT come out in one piece... and I could not get the engine to raise up... OH MAN this is gonna be a real PITA

 

[david85]

So it was the O ring, not the gasket at fault.

I highly doubt they would take it back but by all rights they should because they sold you the wrong parts, although if you specifically asked for what you got, it can get complicated. Explain the situation and ask if they will offer a credit toward the correct parts. Doesn't cost to ask.

Have you tried phoning an International harvester dealer to see of they might have the parts? I seem to remember they sometimes have them cheaper.

 

[8v-of-fury]

You think it was the o-ring and not the gasket? what makes you think this? lol because the thicker one is split? I had to split it to get it off.

It took a lot to split it too, didn't crumble like people say.. but it is old and hard rubber none-the-less. Well I haven't dirtied up the two i wish to return, so i hope they don't be tools and refuse to take it back...

Could I use the smaller ones in place of the bigger ones?

How am I going to lift the engine? I have the 4 mount bolts off, but the engine didnt lift.. it just lifted the whole front end.. lmao

 

[8v-of-fury]

Ok guys, Ford took back the un-needed o-rings and gave me the correct ones and $25 as they were cheaper and they had them in stock.. it was just my day. Local parts guy had my new gaskets in as well! everything was going good today.

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NICE NEW GREEN AND BLACK O-rings! Everything all nice and ready to be reassembled! I will take it to work with me and go have it pressed together on my Lunch Break if I can be assured I will be able to get it in to the truck in one piece...!!
which brings me to my next question... how will I raise this stupid engine? When i started jacking VIA bellhousing.. it just started to lift the front end of the truck.. IDEAS?


thxxx guys!

also I have RTV Black.. not ultra black.. will this work? i used it to seal up my 302 in my cougar

 

[91f2504x4]

If you have all the motor mount bolts out on the driver side and it still won't raise up, try loosening the bolts up that attach the trans to the crossmember. I can't think of anything else that would hinder it being raised up unless someone has ran a weird ground strap or something from the engine to the frame or something else weird, I would suggest maybe taking the exhaust loose from the manifolds if that may help but I doubt it would help that much and it may be hard to get it loose without breaking your bolts, I am just trying to think of anything that might be keeping you from just raising one side of the engine.

 

[cm1hedge]

I would also suggest loosening the passenger's side, too.

 

[8v-of-fury]

Well you see I have both sides mount bolts off. there is only 2 per side right? lol

The only spot i can get and purchase to jack is the bell housing. and that puts my jack dead center of the weight of the engine and tranny.. I cant lift only the drivers side of the engine.. There is no where to jack it from..

I will try tranny mount.. seems it could very well be holding it down.. exhaust i won't touch that will be a nightmare I wish to avoid like the frigging plague..

 

[cm1hedge]

Could you put a block of wood along the oil pan bolts and jack it up there?

 

[8v-of-fury]

Hmm... I never thought of that.. I was jacking with a brick to give my jack some extra reach as i have the truck up on ramps lol.

I will try the wood along the oil pan bolts. thank-you.

 

[david85]

Just so you know, bricks are not ideal for lifting hard, heavy parts. If you are only using it between the jack and the ground and its a solid brick then it should be safe, but don't use it against hard parts like the transmission or parts of the engine because they can break. If you have some wood, I would advise using some 2x4 pieces instead.

Also, when installing the stack back together, the smaller O ring at the end of the cooler is supposed to be positioned in the header, not on the bundle prior to assembly to prevent pinching the O ring. Would really suck to still have a leak after all this fuss.

 

[h2odrx]

Could you put a block of wood along the oil pan bolts and jack it up there?

That is what I did a small piece of 2x6 on the end on the jack the other end touching 2 or 3 bolts on the oil pan.

 

[8v-of-fury]

Well guys I got the cooler back on the truck.. AGAIN.

This time i cleaned everything up real good with a wire wheel. I used a wood clamp to push the two ends on, it worked reasonably easier than i thought it would.. i was going all over looking for a shop open on Saturday with a press.. and the damn wood clamp worked lol

I put a smallish bead of sealant on the cooler headers then set the gaskets on and let the sealer set. Then I cleaned up and applied the a thin film all over the entire mating surfaces on the block, after i fought to get the cooler in of course, and applied the cooler to its spot and hand tightened the bolts plus a 1/2 turn more with the ratchet for good mating. I will be waiting the 24 hour cure time before i add ANY oil or coolant this time!

I found a pretty good way to sneak the cooler back in, in one piece. Remove all of the drivers side engine mount bolts, with the engine raised and supported of course.. lol and it gives you (well it did to me anyway) that extra 1/4 inch you need to wiggle it in there... worked great...

I HOPE IT SEALS THIS TIME!!!

 

[david85]

Remember to still check the bolt torque before adding any fluids tomorrow.