Coolant in Oil

Zaggnutt

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I could hear it but can't quite make it out like PwrSmoke wrote.

However, if you can get your hands on a "mechanics stethoscope" you can probe the area and literally hear the approximate source. Their about $20 and worth every penny. I can't tell you how many times it has helped me out.

A bad rod bearing sounds like a big marble rolling around in your oil pan. Put a stethoscope to it and it sound like a hammer striking a block of steel. You can practically tell which bearing is bad with one. That's if it is the problem.

Yeah, sorry about the video. It doesn't sound like a marble just that knock you hear in the video. Sounds like "normal" tap/knock on video. It is louder on passenger side and then as you go lower on the quarter panel it gets louder. It is loudest on low side of engine right in front of the starter. Anyway, I agree with the mech steth. Truck is 25 miles away so I'm trying to gather as much info before I head out to buy/rent gear and I have to let the business owner I subcontract plow for what my deal is before snow storm today.
 

Zaggnutt

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Just use a cooling system pressure tester. It screws on to the radiator filler neck. If you don't have one, Harbor Freight has them inexpensively priced. If you have a store nearby or online mail-order. Many auto parts stores also have them, sometimes to rent. If the water comes out of the oil drain, then it's either the oil cooler o-rings or the housing (the most likely problem), the front cover is leaking, either from internal corrosion/erosion behind the seater pump or a leak at the mounting gaskets of the cover to the block, a cracked block or head, cavitation... it's a 7.3L after all (God help you)... or a leaking head gasket (unlikely given there are only a few ways that can happen without also having a major combustion leak as well that is indicated by a dead cylinder). As I said, the presence of a knock with a lot of metal is a very bad sign, so be prepared that if you find the leak and fix it (assuming it's external), your engine may still be toast. If this were me, I'd drop the engine oil pan, and do the pressure test with the pan off. That way you could see if it was the cooler, cavitation or something else, but more importantly get a look at the lower end. If the bearings are toast, there would be no point in doing any band-aids and you could get on with rebuilding or replacing the engine. No easy answers here, sorry. How it works out well.

Okay, so call me slow but I'm still unclear on something... How does coolant dripping out of the oil pan help me diagnose the problem? I already know there is coolant in the oil.
 

The Bus

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Welp, that is about the worst news possible. Totalled my daily driver 2 weeks ago. Rental car due back tomorrow and I'm supposed to plow snow with this truck today and it will be my only vehicle starting tomorrow. Got about $2500 buck to my name and no dedicated shop to do the work and obviously no downtime possible. And the hits just keep comin'. Thanks for your help I appreciate it.

I feel you pain.

Been dealing with it for about a year. Started last Spring and it finally started turning around late Fall. Daily driver went down last March and needed to pull the engine. Friend borrowed engine hoist prior to this event to help someone out in a bind. The guy in a bind tore it up and finally returned it in December after he got a new one for his shop. Can't do much with it, low on funds; no truck = no work. The wife's car is leaking transmission fluid like the Exxon Valdez. As soon as I get done with one on to the next!

Kids are in Catholic School, work a part time job and had to borrow a car to get back and forth to so they could keep going. Using my tailgate bus to run around the rest of the time. It needs some work too.

If felt the same way you did last Spring after the Racoons tore holes in my roof in the middle of the night. Got rid of them, patched the holes and concentrated on getting by until things start turning around.

Keep your chin up. It these things we overcome that make us better.
 
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Zaggnutt

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I feel you pain.

Been dealing with it for about a year. Started last Spring and it finally started turning around late Fall. Daily driver went down last March and needed to pull the engine. Friend borrowed engine hoist prior to this event to help someone out in a bind. The guy in a bind tore it up and finally returned it in December after he got a new one for his shop. Can't do much with it, low on funds; no truck = no work. The wife's car is leaking transmission fluid like the Exxon Valdez. As soon as I get done with one on to the next!

Kids are in Catholic School, work a part time job and had to borrow a car to get back and forth to so they could keep going. Using my tailgate bus to run around the rest of the time. It needs some work too.

If felt the same way you did last Spring after the Racoons tore holes in my roof in the middle of the night. Got rid of them, patched the holes and concentrated on getting by until things start turning around.

Keep your chin up. It these things we overcome that make us better.

Thank you, Bus. It can always be worse. It's been a rough few months for me but it can always be worse. Not much I can do for you from PA, but I am always able to listen and offer cheap advise. Thanks brother. There is one thing for sure: If I am having problems with my truck I know where to go for help I can rely on and trust. Thanks to the Oilburners Brotherhood who have helped me on my diesel fueled adventure!
 

The Bus

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Okay, so call me slow but I'm still unclear on something... How does coolant dripping out of the oil pan help me diagnose the problem? I already know there is coolant in the oil.

As I read it, I think he's outlining all of the potential failure points. Dropping the pan and pressurizing the coolant system should reveal where the coolant leak is coming from; top (heads/cylinder), or front of engine (water pump area) without pulling the heads or front off the engine.

I wouldn't think the oil cooler would have a check valve since mos quality oil filters come with check valves. So if you were to pressure check the coolant system with the oil filter off, it should hiss and/or spit coolant out the end (would need to leave oil pan and drain plug in and make sure oil filler cap to build pressure).
 

Zaggnutt

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Okay so what he is saying is when the coolant starts dripping out of oil pan then start looking for coolant pushing out of gaskets etc around the engine? So check around areas we talked about like oil cooler, water pump? Will I see coolant around the head if its a bad gasket?
 

OLDBULL8

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Reading all this, I would say your engine is *****. You'll have to pull it and check the crank and rod bearings. Sounds like a rod bearing is gone. Coolant in the oil pan will eventually destroy the engine crank and bearings. Running low on coolant and hot as you say, how hot? can cause cracked head(s). Sorry, but that's it. When you drained the oil, you should have seen a lot of coolant come out first. Alol those coolant pressure tests are not going to reveal nothing except you have a coolant leak into the engine.
 

Zaggnutt

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Reading all this, I would say your engine is *****. You'll have to pull it and check the crank and rod bearings. Sounds like a rod bearing is gone. Coolant in the oil pan will eventually destroy the engine crank and bearings. Running low on coolant and hot as you say, how hot? can cause cracked head(s). Sorry, but that's it. When you drained the oil, you should have seen a lot of coolant come out first. Alol those coolant pressure tests are not going to reveal nothing except you have a coolant leak into the engine.

Truck wasn't running hot, just low on oil and coolant. There was no coolant in oil til after the flush. Only about 2-3 qts came out during oil change. The thing I dont understand is why didn't it smell like coolant before I flushed coolant and changed oil? Gotta head out for a while. Will check in ASAP. Thanks.
 
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Zaggnutt

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Wanted to give a quick timeline of events... checked rad fluid friday am it was low so I topped it off. There was no coolant smell from crankcase. NormalRDT smell. Didnt use truck for rest of day. Pulled into shop, drained oil it was 2-3 quarts .drained coolant from rad and block plugs roughly 7-8 gallons. Filled oil and new filter. Filled rad with distilled 5-6 gallons and prestone flush. Truck idled for 30 minutes waiting for coolant level to drop. Drove 1 mile to sheetz, checked rad fluid a little low topped it drove back 1 mile drained rad again. Filled with coolant 7 gallons? Fired up let it run immediately smelled coolant. Checked RDT very strong coolant smell. Cant smell oil at all. Coolant level since normal. Oil a little high. Dipstick and oil cap smell of coolant.
 

The Bus

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Wanted to give a quick timeline of events... checked rad fluid friday am it was low so I topped it off. There was no coolant smell from crankcase. NormalRDT smell. Didnt use truck for rest of day. Pulled into shop, drained oil it was 2-3 quarts .drained coolant from rad and block plugs roughly 7-8 gallons. Filled oil and new filter. Filled rad with distilled 5-6 gallons and prestone flush. Truck idled for 30 minutes waiting for coolant level to drop. Drove 1 mile to sheetz, checked rad fluid a little low topped it drove back 1 mile drained rad again. Filled with coolant 7 gallons? Fired up let it run immediately smelled coolant. Checked RDT very strong coolant smell. Cant smell oil at all. Coolant level since normal. Oil a little high. Dipstick and oil cap smell of coolant.

Found this in an older thread:

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?60368-Is-my-head-gasket-blown

Check out the video.

Also found this one:

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?31573-coolant-coming-out-exhaust

Reply No. #5 from "Agnem"

Here is how to tell. Take all your glow plugs out, and drain your oil. Presurize your cooling system, and let it sit. One of two things will happen. You will get coolant running out of the bottom, or flooding out of a glow plug hole. If it comes out of a glow plug hole, your in better shape, then if it runs out of the bottom. Unless you have a cracked piston, water out of the bottom will almost always be cavitation. If it comes out of a glow plug hole, you will know what cylinder has the problem. Bring the piston in that bore to top dead center on the compression stroke. Let it sit again. If more water comes out the glow plug hole, then it is either the head gasket or a cracked head. If it comes out of the bottom, then your back to caviation. Here's hoping your top is wet and your bottom is dry!
 

Zaggnutt

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Found this in an older thread:

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?60368-Is-my-head-gasket-blown

Check out the video.

Also found this one:

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?31573-coolant-coming-out-exhaust

Reply No. #5 from "Agnem"

Here is how to tell. Take all your glow plugs out, and drain your oil. Presurize your cooling system, and let it sit. One of two things will happen. You will get coolant running out of the bottom, or flooding out of a glow plug hole. If it comes out of a glow plug hole, your in better shape, then if it runs out of the bottom. Unless you have a cracked piston, water out of the bottom will almost always be cavitation. If it comes out of a glow plug hole, you will know what cylinder has the problem. Bring the piston in that bore to top dead center on the compression stroke. Let it sit again. If more water comes out the glow plug hole, then it is either the head gasket or a cracked head. If it comes out of the bottom, then your back to caviation. Here's hoping your top is wet and your bottom is dry!

Very helpful. Starting pressure test now. Thank you so much. I will post a video when it stops snowing but I just started the truck and it purred I mean it ran and sounded perfect. Came back 3 minutes later and it had the bad tap and was shaking and sounded like **** again. I shot a video of both. Good quality this time.
 

Zaggnutt

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Well if Mel's test is correct and I have to belief ve it is then it appears I have cavitation. Cooling system has been holding pressure between 11 and 13 psi for 40 minutes or so. Gp holes are dry but I am getting a drip from the oil filter head and the oil pan. Drip from filter head was about 1 every 3 seconds.After about 20 mins 1 every 7 seconds. Oil pannwas 1 every 12 now 1 every 8.
 

Zaggnutt

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There was a small leak in the pressure tester so its hard to make any judgements regarding pressure loss. Ive had to pump it up from 11 psi to 14 once every 10 minutes? Something like that. Is this the kind of drip I should expect from cavitation? Is there any other testing I can do while some things are apart?
 

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