Coolant in Oil

Zaggnutt

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There is a copper washer at the bottom of the bore in the head that the injector drops in, it's supposed to seal combustion gasses from escaping between the injector and the head surface. In your case this wasn't happening very well, see all the carbon buildup on the sides of the injector, that's combustion deposits/residue. If combustion gases can escape that way from the chamber, what's stopping clean air from doing the same? In other words your compression test number for that cylinder could be so low just cause the copper seal in question has been leaking for who knows how long, it would not necessarily meant there's anything wrong with the cylinder itself. If you feel adventurous pull #1 and #2 as well, wouldn't be surprised if they looked nasty too. Then pull say #3, #6, or #8, and see if they have clean bodies where they drop into the heads, if they look good then you have found your compression leaks in the forms of the wasted copper seals

The confused and dunno face were actually sarcasm, but I hadn't really thought much about what caused the buildup. I have a few copper washers from the return line kit from Conestoga that I can replace them with. I will give it a shot. I was suprised and really pleased to see some of the high compression numbers then I got to #7. Thank you for your diagnosis.
 

Zaggnutt

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Something off with this. I have no experience working with IDI heads, but I wouldn't think that cleaning and pressure checking a head would cost $500.

My mistake. That number included guide work. He was not giving me a hard quote. I told him I had 1 bad valve for sure, etc. etc. and he said "figure on spending $500 and up to do the guides. Depends what all is wrong in there." He wanted inspect the heads before giving a firm quote. The machine shop is used by Penn Diesel which is about the only diesel only shop close. Mel's shop is a haul for me.

I've bought both my "Great running" trucks with "No problems at all" from mechanics so my experiences have not been real good. I respect the fact that he wants to look at them more closely before quoting instead of throwing out a really high or really low number, but who knows anymore. Probably not gonna happen either way I was just comparing prices.
 

madpogue

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Okay guys, I have an update and I am embarrassed to say that I've been leading everyone down the wrong path. I was not accustomed to the "sweet" smell of Rotella T motor oil so I am fairly certain that the "coolant smell" I was getting from the oil fill and RDT was actually the Rotella. I apologize for the mistake
Hey, I started a whole thread a couple years ago, one of the other forums, all worried 'cuz the ATF I drained out of one of the ZF5s smelled really metallic. Turns out that's what Mobil 1 ATF smells like; and yeah, I felt :idiot: for posting it...
 

Zaggnutt

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Hey, I started a whole thread a couple years ago, one of the other forums, all worried 'cuz the ATF I drained out of one of the ZF5s smelled really metallic. Turns out that's what Mobil 1 ATF smells like; and yeah, I felt :idiot: for posting it...

Hahaha man, I appreciate that you guys haven't been too ******* me. I have so much respect and appreciation for everyone here who takes the time to help I wanted to be honest and do the right thing. I was afraid of what some of you might say.... OLDBULL comes to mind-cuss:backoff:rtfm

I blame my kids for telling the truth. If I didn't have to lead by example all the time I could be a ******** and think nothing of it :D
 

LCAM-01XA

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The confused and dunno face were actually sarcasm, but I hadn't really thought much about what caused the buildup. I have a few copper washers from the return line kit from Conestoga that I can replace them with. I will give it a shot. I was suprised and really pleased to see some of the high compression numbers then I got to #7. Thank you for your diagnosis.
The problem with replacing the copper washers is that the first you have to get the old ones out somehow, and then you gotta clean the bottom faces in the head where they sealed against. Getting the old ones is easy enough with a big flat-blade screw driver - since its tip is tapered its side edges will wedge into the washer before they jam into the head's bore for the injector tip, still gotta be careful tho. Getting the bottom faces clean, that's a whole 'nother story - there's actually a special Rotunda reamer for that, but if you have no access to one (most folks don't) there was another way to get the job done but I don't remember it. I also don't remember how it got done on our IDI, but I know it wasn't with the reamer for sure...
 

Zaggnutt

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The problem with replacing the copper washers is that the first you have to get the old ones out somehow, and then you gotta clean the bottom faces in the head where they sealed against. Getting the old ones is easy enough with a big flat-blade screw driver - since its tip is tapered its side edges will wedge into the washer before they jam into the head's bore for the injector tip, still gotta be careful tho. Getting the bottom faces clean, that's a whole 'nother story - there's actually a special Rotunda reamer for that, but if you have no access to one (most folks don't) there was another way to get the job done but I don't remember it. I also don't remember how it got done on our IDI, but I know it wasn't with the reamer for sure...

Shoot. Hadn't thought of that either. The copper washer on 7 was jammed onto the injector so tight I may have to use pliers or something to get it off but I hadn't considered getting down in the bottom of the bore to get the gunk out... Hmmm.... Alright. I'll think about it. Let me know if the trick you had comes back to you. Thanks again.
 

LCAM-01XA

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Shotgun bore brush.
That only cleans the injector bore though, doesn't do much for the face the copper washer seals against. Well, guess it depends on the type of brush, the ones that kinda look like an egg-beater pumped full of steroids then miniaturized may just do the trick...
 

Zaggnutt

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Working on removing the oil cooler, replacing rad hoses. Upper rad hose was leaking. Oil cooler is easier to access with lower rad hose removed. Removed the wrong two bolts for the engine mount. Didn't have a lot of time, but will get at it again Monday. The oil cooler is off but hangin'. Oil and coolant have been drained from engine. Will be dropping oil pan hopefully this week to check bearings.
 

Zaggnutt

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OLDBULL8

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. I was afraid of what some of you might say.... OLDBULL comes to mind

I blame my kids for telling the truth. If I didn't have to lead by example all the time I could be a ******** and think nothing of it

Did I say something condiscending?
 

Zaggnutt

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Did I say something condiscending?

No, no not at all. I'm sorry, it is hard to joke on a keyboard at times.

You are a "no ********" kind of guy and I respect that and you say how you feel and I respect that as well. Honesty, I felt stupid for the misdiagnosis and didn't want to be judged too harshly for admitting it. It takes time and effort to type out our advice and experience and pics, and google searches info, etc solely for the benefit of someone else and I felt bad that I had led you guys down the wrong path accidentally while you were offering time and energy to help me solve a problem that ultimately wasn't there.

It was not an accusation AT ALL. A failed attempt at humor at best.
 

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