Clutch options

riotwarrior

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The 10.25 is the better option and direct bolt in dead stock...maybe change park cables...and 1 ujoint

Get an open 4.10 toss lunch box in for short turn...if u like it keep it...if not later get the true trac

Stupid simple no ******* around making gears setup nadda issue with silly spacers or chromo shafts

But as I said..no skin in this game so zpend yer money as wisely or foolishly as you choose....

No butt hurt here if u blow **** tons on 61 oddball diff that is...yer choice

Yer not looking hard enough cause I give this stuff away 100 bucks complete diff etc...
 

austin92

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The 10.25 is the better option and direct bolt in dead stock...maybe change park cables...and 1 ujoint

Get an open 4.10 toss lunch box in for short turn...if u like it keep it...if not later get the true trac

Stupid simple no ******* around making gears setup nadda issue with silly spacers or chromo shafts

But as I said..no skin in this game so zpend yer money as wisely or foolishly as you choose....

No butt hurt here if u blow **** tons on 61 oddball diff that is...yer choice

Yer not looking hard enough cause I give this stuff away 100 bucks complete diff etc...

How far up through the years will a 10.25 directly bolt in? I've searched all over Craigslist for part outs, one person replied and knew nothing about the axle. Working night shift, it makes it hard to go search junk yards. Like I said, I've looked for other axles but haven't found much at a reasonable price so I started looking into building the axle already in the truck with brand new brakes


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towcat

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How far up through the years will a 10.25 directly bolt in? I've searched all over Craigslist for part outs, one person replied and knew nothing about the axle. Working night shift, it makes it hard to go search junk yards. Like I said, I've looked for other axles but haven't found much at a reasonable price so I started looking into building the axle already in the truck with brand new brakes


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you're not the the only one works nites.
86-97 are all compatible years for SRW. you'll come across some with the ABS tone ring, you just don't have to plug in.
 

jwalterus

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hell, buy another truck, doesn't matter the engine, swap rears, resell truck, bob's your uncle
 

Dieselcrawler

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Hell, I just sold two axles. A 3.55 sterling and a 4.10 Dana 70. Was happy to get 60 bucks for both. They say for sale for months. And trust me, no need to the fancy axle shafts. If I can't break them, you guys won't have an issue. When a 6000 lb truck goes airborn and land while trying to pull someone out with 42's aired down to 5 psi, that's way more stress than you guys are doing. I have broke plenty of driveshafts and u joints. No driveshafts anymore since I made them 3/8 thick tubed, but still occasionally take out a joint.

Also back to clutches, it's all your gearing. I run luk clutch from advance auto. Never had an issue.
 

typ4

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Methinks new axles for the 61 will cost way more than a sterling with a new brake job. Look at rock auto for brake parts , they are always having closeouts on stuff for our trucks.
Last year I bought rear seals, cr brand , for 1.37. they had 4. I have 4 now lol.
 

austin92

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Well that guy said he won't meet me half way but he will drop the price to 100$ cash if I pick it up. Still not 3.73 or 4.10 but I will probably be rebuilding it with a truetrac before I install it anyways. That's if I go pick it up...


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FORDF250HDXLT

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towcat

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Well that guy said he won't meet me half way but he will drop the price to 100$ cash if I pick it up. Still not 3.73 or 4.10 but I will probably be rebuilding it with a truetrac before I install it anyways. That's if I go pick it up...


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your feul economy goals will still be met and it's low enough where you won't be roasting as many clutches.
 

austin92

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your feul economy goals will still be met and it's low enough where you won't be roasting as many clutches.

Yeah, I know 3.55s would be better than what I have now but I have no idea how many miles are on it so I'll be doing brakes, wheel bearing, and wheel seals minimum. I'd really like at least 3.73 gears and I don't think I could bring my self to put an open diff back in. Ive got a cosigner lined up for 1000$ loan to get a line of credit established, so that's about what I have to spend on the axle. I also have about 600$ saved for a clutch so far. I ran some numbers through a gear calculator and rpms in 4th gear on 3.07s (factory 4 speed) are right in line with 4.10s in 5th gear


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