Clutch options

FORDF250HDXLT

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I'm not doing anything "wrong".

I really don't want the guys that have 4.10s and a turbo that never break 1800rpms towing 4000 lbs at 50mph chiming in because that's nothing like how I use my truck.

Mine is a 3.07 rear gear, and I push my truck to its limits whether I'm playing or working it with it.

Jesus.... I joined here because everyone seemed cool. I ask for advice on clutch kit holding abilities and apparently now I know nothing about how to drive? Oh, and so what I tried to sled pull, it's fun, I tried, clutch slipped?

no one here isn't being cool.you simply don't understand what you should and shouldn't do with your trucks current setup.your being assisted in how not to ruin your next several hundred dollar clutch.
that's a bunch of friendly and cool characters if you ask me.
 

austin92

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Hey if he wants 3.07's great....super for milage....just DON'T PULL much of anything.

Mqybe the smoked clutch is telling you something? GEARING perhaps?

Ifnyou want to keepnit as is...do that....no skin in the ae here or from anyone else. Just dont expect much in the way of capabklity from the truck outside of light duty towing and such.

JM7.3CW Eh!

I hate that my truck has 3.07s, like I said, I'm looking for. 4.10 limited slip axle. I didn't order the truck in 83 or it'd be a 4.10 4x4 crew cab....


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austin92

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Possibly a cheap way to go and keep your 3.07 gearing is swap in a 4x4 tranny with the transfer case. If you want to pull a sled, put the transfer case in low range and have at it. Then put it back in high range and drive home. The transfer case doesn't care that it does not have a front axle and driveshaft hooked to it.

Considered that but again, that cost money and I'd rather have a 4.10 axle


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austin92

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no one here isn't being cool.you simply don't understand what you should and shouldn't do with your trucks current setup.your being assisted in how not to ruin your next several hundred dollar clutch.
that's a bunch of friendly and cool characters if you ask me.

I came here looking for advice on my "next several hundred dollar clutch" and I've been nothing but reamed for having 3.07s. Literally no advice on which clutch to go with. I'm usually not an ass online and I'm sorry guys but dam. I asked for clutch advice and everyone wants to tell me about how stupid I am because who ever ordered the truck brand new got the fuel economy package and I didn't know that until I changed the diff fluid. I'm sorry I got upset but I know 3.07 gears are not ideal, I know what needs done to correct that issue, I just want to replace my roaring throw out bearing and put a GOOD strong clutch in. Regardless if it has 2.75s or 5.38s and I try to sled pull once a year, haul 20k, or haul sail boat fuel, I want a new clutch that's better than a 130$ autozone special


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riotwarrior

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I came here looking for advice on my "next several hundred dollar clutch" and I've been nothing but reamed for having 3.07s. Literally no advice on which clutch to go with. I'm usually not an ass online and I'm sorry guys but dam. I asked for clutch advice and everyone wants to tell me about how stupid I am because who ever ordered the truck brand new got the fuel economy package and I didn't know that until I changed the diff fluid. I'm sorry I got upset but I know 3.07 gears are not ideal, I know what needs done to correct that issue, I just want to replace my roaring throw out bearing and put a GOOD strong clutch in. Regardless if it has 2.75s or 5.38s and I try to sled pull once a year, haul 20k, or haul sail boat fuel, I want a new clutch that's better than a 130$ autozone special


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http://www.centerforce.com/products...DF305827/name/dual-friction-clutch-cover-disc
 

south bend clutch

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I don't feel centerforce clutches are bad but these trucks do not have RPM which is needed to make the centrifugal weights do their job.

Peter
 

laserjock

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I don't feel centerforce clutches are bad but these trucks do not have RPM which is needed to make the centrifugal weights do their job.

Peter

This^^^ I also always feel the need to warn people to be careful with vehicles with a centerforce clutch. Make sure you have it out of gear if you are messing with it. I've seen them lunge if you are just sitting with the clutch pedal in and rev it. Watched a guy doing a carb adjustment about get run over one day.
 

franklin2

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I came here looking for advice on my "next several hundred dollar clutch" and I've been nothing but reamed for having 3.07s. Literally no advice on which clutch to go with. I'm usually not an ass online and I'm sorry guys but dam. I asked for clutch advice and everyone wants to tell me about how stupid I am because who ever ordered the truck brand new got the fuel economy package and I didn't know that until I changed the diff fluid. I'm sorry I got upset but I know 3.07 gears are not ideal, I know what needs done to correct that issue, I just want to replace my roaring throw out bearing and put a GOOD strong clutch in. Regardless if it has 2.75s or 5.38s and I try to sled pull once a year, haul 20k, or haul sail boat fuel, I want a new clutch that's better than a 130$ autozone special


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I think once you change the gearing, any clutch you choose, even the brand you have in it now will work fine. I guess that also says something about your engine. It never gave up and the poor clutch was stuck between it and the lousy gear ratio and it could not take it. If it's not totally burnt up you may be fine just changing the gears and leave that clutch in place.
 

Dsl_Dog_Treat

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I've run several South Bend clutch setups in my rigs and installed for others who work them hard.
Dealt with Peter and the guys @south bend clutch and told them what I'm after and they've delivered quality every time.

South Bend Clutch
709 W Jefferson Blvd
Mishawaka, IN 46545
1-800-988-4345
574-256-5064

 

austin92

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At this point I'm leaning towards the valair just because of cost. Been doing a lot of research on axles. And to do a 35 spline truetrac is going to be expensive with nice 4340 shafts and brand new 4.10 gears with a master install kit. That's if my spindles can even be bored which is another massive expense. Still would be cheaper than buying a 10.25 and rebuilding it, apparently they're gold plated unless a wheel bearing locked up lol. A little off subject from the clutches but I'm looking for insight on both the valair and idea of going to 35 spline axle shafts.


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laserjock

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You can pick up a used sterling way cheaper than all that out here. 4.10 is usually the easy one to find. I'd keep looking.
 

towcat

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Sterling 10.25 are known to be leakers at the wheel seals and working their pinion nuts loose, but rarely has anyone reported breaking an axle shaft.
One more word of caution. the 3.07 rear I experimented with, used a physically smaller axle tube and U-bolts. the custom shafts you are looking to put in may not fit. Most wrecking yards will be more than willing to sell you a SRW 10.25 LS rear for about $100. They rarely sell.
 

typ4

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I got 100k miles out of my luk replacement clutch. Half of that mileage was loaded to 13-16k gross. I like them. I don't care for the valair, local shop had had to warranty several, vibration,poor release, so on.
Where do you live, I guarantee someone will have a sterling somewhere near you. The pinion will stay tight with a crush sleeve eliminator kit.
Also the Dana will twist a pinion off it you do work it hard, wheel hop, so on
Don't give up on us, we can be a cranky bunch ,but still like to help
 

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