Oh and my clutch life was with 18 lbs of boost available
Clutch options
- Thread starter austin92
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austin92
Full Access Member
So the luk has better reviews than the valair? For the price difference that's crazy. Especially with all the cummins pulling trucks swearing by them lol. I have considered going to just a 30 spline 4340 shaft and truetrac to save time and money with the boring process. I don't see my self towing more than 10k or so. I use a 3000lb car hauler to move vehicles when needed and a 14' utility to help people move. If I ever hooked to sled again on 4.10s, I really couldn't see a chomoly 30spline snapping before a u joint. By the way, you guys know if these trucks used the 1350 u joints like the newer one tons? Oh and for wheel hop, I know a guy that's willing to build a set of traction bars for 300$. Same set he sled pulls his 88 7.3 with and it never hops.
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austin92
Full Access Member
Oh, and I'm in Brazil Indiana
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austin92
Full Access Member
Just checked here for a reply and remembered I hadn't told you guys why I considered building the 61. Not even 2 months ago I completely rebuilt the brakes, excluding vacuum booster and most of the steel lines. Spent almost 200$ on drums, 40$ on shoes, 20$ on hardware kit, 20$ on wheel seals, 30$ on wheel cylinders, and almost 3 full weekends of my time. It would be heartbreaking to **** all that away for a 10.25 that needs new brakes and a clutch rebuild on the LS that would need rebuilt in another 100-150k. Truetracs don't wear out and 10.25s don't come with chromoly shafts that you can brag to your buddies about lol. So, the 10.25 has half an inch bigger ring gear than my Dana 61 and factory inch and a half axle shafts. So is the ring gear diameter that much stronger? Would a high quality 1.31" 4340 30 spline axle shaft not be in the same ball park as a 1040/1050 1.48" axle shaft? I would much rather have a truetrac than a factory clutch pack limited slip. See why I'm leaning towards building my Dana 61 
? Even if I can't do 1.5" 35 spline shafts there won't be much of a strength difference between a built Dana 60/61 and factory 10.25. Then I save time on the whole axle swap process, and keep my freshly rebuilt brakes with less than a thousand miles on them
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? Even if I can't do 1.5" 35 spline shafts there won't be much of a strength difference between a built Dana 60/61 and factory 10.25. Then I save time on the whole axle swap process, and keep my freshly rebuilt brakes with less than a thousand miles on themSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Is that 61 a semi floater?
61 is an odball axle. What gearing are you aming for ...isnt that a semi float axle not a full floater?
If so then no comparison to 10.25 really. Just find a 10.25 w open diff from 94ish has long pinion splines and add csek and build it.
New brakes...well sometimes ya eat crow some times you eat fillet mignon..
JM7.3CW Eh!
If so then no comparison to 10.25 really. Just find a 10.25 w open diff from 94ish has long pinion splines and add csek and build it.
New brakes...well sometimes ya eat crow some times you eat fillet mignon..
JM7.3CW Eh!
austin92
Full Access Member
I'm shooting for 3.73-4.10. 3.73 will put me at 2200rpm at 70mph and 4.10 is about 200 rpm over that. I never break 75-80mph on the highway, less when towing. The Dana 61 is a full floater, only difference between 60 and 61 is the 61 has a a greater pinion offset cast into the housing to clear the monster pinion head. To re gear to 4.10s I will b using a Dana 60 4.56up truetrac with a .160 spacer on the ring gear. That will get me close enough to shim it over to a good pattern. But if it were as easy said than done, it would b a 10.25, I just don't see all that effort of an entire axle swap being worth half inch bigger ring gear and .17" bigger axle shaft diameter when I'm going to be using a 4340 axle shaft. Eh, I still can't decide lol
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"alienturtle" owns a Cummins powered Ford with a used 3.55 LS rear. Stock axles. even with a Cummins in front, the truck has yet to break anything in the rear either at a sled pull or towing a 30k GN trailer.
anytime you are using a carrier spacer, you have now created a new weak spot. the CroMoly axles won't be the weak spot but the bolts holding the ring gear and spacer to the carrier now is.
austin92
Full Access Member
It's .160"? I've never heard of anyone breaking all the ring gear bolts. Like ever lol. I still think the week link will be u joints. Even if they are 1350 spicers
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jwalterus
Made in America
austin92
Full Access Member
The load shouldn't be on the bolts in a shearing manner. The torque is distributed over the clamping force of the ring gear to the carrier/spacer just like how axle studs don't support weight of the vehicle. The centering on the hub and clamping force that do the work. I do see the reasoning in that post but I don't agree with it. The carrier will prevent the ring from "walking" and 12 half inch bolts have an enormous amount of clamping force. I even looked on arp bolts site trying to find a little extra insurance.
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This is really beginning to sound a lot like a certain D44/D50 hub nut socket thread 
Just sayin
Just sayin
Black dawg
Registered User
That is a lot of messing around when a stock 10.25 will hold up.
The real problem is the worthless 4:1 first gear in that zf.
never had chromo 30 spline axles, but broke lots of stock 60 ones without ever breaking driveshaft joints (1330)
The real problem is the worthless 4:1 first gear in that zf.
never had chromo 30 spline axles, but broke lots of stock 60 ones without ever breaking driveshaft joints (1330)
