Clogged Orifice tube

HS108

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I'm pretty leaked out on freon, down to 10psi, system won't kick on to even pressure up to check for leaks

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HS108

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Also no way on that stuff, I want it to last, not a quick fix.

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Danielle

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Almost all of the shops use uv dye now. Try using blacklight now to find leaks. Where rubber meets metal on the lines, and any connections are the most common. Check around back of compressor pulley and condenser are other common areas.
You might be able to find the leak now

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typ4

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Never sealer, ever. The dye will ride around without doing any harm. Change the condensor, wifes jeep had a leak in it , dyed it and could not find it, it was the condensor , changed it and holding for a full year now instead of 2 days.
Check for oil around the clutch, common leak spot on that comp.
 

HS108

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Thanks guys, gonna add the Can with UV in it. Hopefully I can track it down.

Then Ill start the process all over again lol

I will report back my findings, going to Cape Cod for our babymoon, then Ill add this to the list of project BTB
 

Shawn MacAnanny

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Never sealer, ever. The dye will ride around without doing any harm. Change the condensor, wifes jeep had a leak in it , dyed it and could not find it, it was the condensor , changed it and holding for a full year now instead of 2 days.
Check for oil around the clutch, common leak spot on that comp.

What's the concern with sealer in the AC system? I would never put it in a cooling system but ive had several opened up that i used sealer on and i never saw anything gunked up. One i ran for 3 years with sealer before i replaced the orifice, which was gunked up, but it probably saw 10 cans of freon and sealer over those 3 years. I replaced the dryer and orifice reused the compressor, didnt flush anything and its still going today as far as i know

BTW your PM box was full the other day when i tried to message you, i need to confirm your shipping adress
 

typ4

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What's the concern with sealer in the AC system? I would never put it in a cooling system but ive had several opened up that i used sealer on and i never saw anything gunked up. One i ran for 3 years with sealer before i replaced the orifice, which was gunked up, but it probably saw 10 cans of freon and sealer over those 3 years. I replaced the dryer and orifice reused the compressor, didnt flush anything and its still going today as far as i know

BTW your PM box was full the other day when i tried to message you, i need to confirm your shipping adress

PM sent
 

HS108

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Ok update :

Yesterday I put a can of UV dye infused 134a, along with another 12oz can to get the system up and running again.(no stop leak, just pure 134a) I checked for leaks last night, but wasn't able to find any. I didn't run the system that long as I didn't know how big my leak was, and didn't want it to look like a techno party under my hood.

I will drive it again today with the AC going and hopefully track down that leak!

Also, I wanted to pull the O-tube before I filled the system again to check for debris, but was in a hurry and forgot :(
 

Shawn MacAnanny

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Ok update :

Yesterday I put a can of UV dye infused 134a, along with another 12oz can to get the system up and running again.(no stop leak, just pure 134a) I checked for leaks last night, but wasn't able to find any. I didn't run the system that long as I didn't know how big my leak was, and didn't want it to look like a techno party under my hood.

I will drive it again today with the AC going and hopefully track down that leak!

Also, I wanted to pull the O-tube before I filled the system again to check for debris, but was in a hurry and forgot :(

Mines going on 10,000 miles strong with the one or two cans of R134a with stop leak lol. I added the stop leak freon after the pressure switch oring leaked it out. It did get over 100F today and only got down to about 75 in the cab but thats pretty hot here and i have a black crew cab truck. I would not recommend any stop leak for any system other than the AC system. Even if it did cause problems your absolute worst case scenario is a $170 compressor, $25 in freon, $20 in flushing materials, a $4 orifice, and possibly a serpentine belt.
 
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79jasper

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^ except a lot of people don't have the tools to properly evacuate/charge the system.
So put the stop leak in, then go into a shop and ruin their equipment.

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