Seekers
Registered User
So what's the best option for replacing the tranny cooler lines to the radiatior? Bone yard? stealer doesn't carry them and I prob couldn't have afforded them anyway... open for any other suggestions. TIA
Belt took out tranny cooler lines!
- Thread starter Seekers
- Start date
Take it in and have some bent up or replace the bad sections with as short a piece of hose as you can get by with. Same thing happened to me. Did you replace the belt tensioner with the latest Ford version, if not it will happen again...
Welcome to the club, been thier done that (the worst is that I had a new belt in the cab - to lazy to replace) You can go to your local harware store and get compression fittings (5/16 I think) with a pipe thread on the other end, then a 5/16 barb fitting (with the appropriate thread) then use rubber trans hose.
metrojd
Full Access Member
Rubber
If you put a piece of rubber in they actually make specific hose for trans. cooler line.
Also dont use normal worm clamps Get the fuel injection hose clamps.
They hold alot better and less likley of a hose blowing off.
Good Luck
John
If you put a piece of rubber in they actually make specific hose for trans. cooler line.
Also dont use normal worm clamps Get the fuel injection hose clamps.
They hold alot better and less likley of a hose blowing off.
Good Luck
John
tonkadoctor
Full Access Member
Been there blowing hoses off before I knew better. Cost me a freshly rebuilt TH400 tranny.
I personnally would never use a rubber line and clamps on tranny lines again.
I vote for new hard lines front to back or at the very least using compression fittings to splice a new front section of the lines in.
metrojd
Full Access Member
Trans Lines
Been there blowing hoses off before I knew better. Cost me a freshly rebuilt TH400 tranny
How did ya do that?
When the line blows off and loose fluid No fluid No pressure No move.
What did ya do hold the Hammer down?
I agree with the hard line as much as possiable,But you have to use rubber with a Aftermarker Cooler.
Been there blowing hoses off before I knew better. Cost me a freshly rebuilt TH400 tranny
How did ya do that?
When the line blows off and loose fluid No fluid No pressure No move.
What did ya do hold the Hammer down?
I agree with the hard line as much as possiable,But you have to use rubber with a Aftermarker Cooler.
sle2115
NRA LIFE MEMBER
Not if you buy the right cooler, one with pipe or flare fittings instead of hose barbs!
[on edit] You can then adapt the fittings to use regular 3/8 inch steel lines.
[edited] You can also use Russell Pro Flex and the proper fittings, never had a problem in probably a million miles with add on oil coolers, I put them on all my daily driver vehicles.
Last edited:
tonkadoctor
Full Access Member
How did ya do that?
When the line blows off and loose fluid No fluid No pressure No move.
What did ya do hold the Hammer down?
18 years old with a '68 Impala with a bored 327, dual quads and much, much more. Ran a 12.38 1/4 mile with it and it weighed in at over 3800 lbs. I think you can figure out the rest.
Russel pro flex, AN fittings and pipe fittings are a far cry from rubber hose and clamps as was being suggested. In fact there is no comparison in the kinds of pressure good hose like that can take.
sle2115
NRA LIFE MEMBER
Don't have to use Russell either. If you get the right style of oil cooler, you can adapt to tubing of any reasonable size. I was just suggesting Russell as yet another alternative. My last truck with a slosh box was plumbed totally out of 3/8" steel tubing, used a cooler with 1/4" pipe fitting, and an adapter in both the inlet/outlet that converted to inverter flare. You can then use the 3/8" steel line available at any decent parts store. No rubber line to have problems with. I always like to put a flex coil or something like that in the steel line for flex as well.
Tonka, I edited the previous post as I see where you got that from. I am making dinner and was in a hurry, sorry for the confusion and you are right, there is no comparison, in function or price, but I will not use rubber line on anything like that, except for ProFlex or something similar. To me, it is worth it to not be stuck along the road. Matter of fact, my whole 6.9 fuel system is ProFlex, and yes, it was costly!
tonkadoctor
Full Access Member
No harm, no foul. Just don't like to see people make some of the expensive mistakes of my inexperienced, lead footed youth when better cost effective alternatives are there.
I'm a big fan of hard piping stuff with steel tubing and not having to worry about it, definatly leave a coil or hump for flex when needed.
The tools are inexpensive to bend and flare and it doesn't take much practice to learn.
I just eliminated a steel, to rubber hose, to copper tubing cob job from the PO on the Bronze Star...... 10" of 5/16" steel tube a couple bends and light flare for the rubber compression O-ring on the fuel regulator and a 5/16" compression union on the other end and it's fixed right short of ordering new fuel lines from Ford. Cost about $5 and took 10 minutes to fix it right.
Wish I could find the Pics of the Dodge M-37 Flathead Engine I restored a couple years ago. Everything on it is waterproof including the ignition, and all of the oil and vacuum lines were hard steel tubing...Took me a couple days to re plumb it but the results were show quality
Seekers
Registered User
OK..... Going with the steel lines all the way! thanks everyone for your input
