94 turbo 7.3l e40d

[truckermark]

Hi guys. Been on here before. And had an idi in the past. I am currently looking into a 94 factory turbo truck with 114,000 miles. 7.3l with e40d. The owner says it leakes after shut off. Rear of oil pan by crank. Haven't seen in person yet but any thoughts?? Also was wandering about the turbo. Does it make workin on these things harder? Thanks ahead of time for the help!

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I'd have to say that the owner of the truck is most likely wrong. It probably leaks while the engine's running and has oil pressure. He notices it after the engine's shut off. Although it is possible that the seal between the oil pan and the rear engine cover isn't very good and when the engine's shut off, the oil drains back into the pan and the oil level rises. When full, I believe that the level is higher than this spot. That's the only way that I can see for this spot to ONLY leak after being shut off. Does the turbo make it harder to work on these things? Yes, for some things like injectors, glow plugs, maybe the valve covers. Don't let that turn you off though. When everything's working right, the turbo makes it a different truck entirely. By doing a few modifications, you can make a Factory Turbo perform the way that it should, not the way Ford released it.

 

[truckermark]

Ok thanks! He said its like a 5 inch puddle on the ground. It in the dirt. So was thinkin it might even be a fuel leake and he doesnt realise it. Alsi. What can be done to these turbos?

 

[saburai]

Ok thanks! He said its like a 5 inch puddle on the ground. It in the dirt. So was thinkin it might even be a fuel leake and he doesnt realise it. Alsi. What can be done to these turbos?

Welcome to the fourm!
Having started with a normally aspirated truck and then adding a turbo and some mild mods, I can agree that the turbo version is a whole different animal...
Take a backseat, read the stickies and poke around some... Tons of good info here, and a really great crowd!
To answer your question, lots of stuff!

 

[nostrokes]

When you look at it take a sniff very well could be fuel. If the engine bay smells like fuel then that's probably it.

 

[truckermark]

Will Deffinatly look on here some more. And thanks for the tips!

 

[IDIBRONCO]

What can be done to these turbos?

First, throw away the smashed, restrictive down pipe. BIG improvement right there. Then you could at the very least, install a free flowing muffler. You could go farther and install a bigger diameter exhaust with or without a muffler depending on your preference and local laws. You can add on an ATS 093 exhaust housing and I believe that there's a Wicked Wheel (maybe even a WW2?) for this turbo to build more boost. You can adjust the wastegate to build more boost. Finally, you should add a better flowing intake/air filter instead of the factory set up. If you do very many of these mods, especially ones that build more boost over better flow, you should install an intercooler. A pyrometer is a "must have" item in order to make sure that you don't make too high of exhaust temps and start to melt pistons. That should be installed even if you leave the turbo alone. Even if you do nothing to your turbo, I'd recommend the intercooler and pyrometer.

 

[saburai]

First, throw away the smashed, restrictive down pipe. BIG improvement right there. Then you could at the very least, install a free flowing muffler. You could go farther and install a bigger diameter exhaust with or without a muffler depending on your preference and local laws. You can add on an ATS 093 exhaust housing and I believe that there's a Wicked Wheel (maybe even a WW2?) for this turbo to build more boost. You can adjust the wastegate to build more boost. Finally, you should add a better flowing intake/air filter instead of the factory set up. If you do very many of these mods, especially ones that build more boost over better flow, you should install an intercooler. A pyrometer is a "must have" item in order to make sure that you don't make too high of exhaust temps and start to melt pistons. That should be installed even if you leave the turbo alone. Even if you do nothing to your turbo, I'd recommend the intercooler and pyrometer.

Excellent advice

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Excellent advice

Thanks. When I was working on these engines for a living, I saw A LOT of engine damage from turbos. Maybe 15% of them actually had a working pyrometer, Probably at least half didn't have one at all. None of them were installed in the "proper" location close to the head. If the owners didn't know that the temp readings are lower right before or after the turbo, they would have though that they were doing ok with their EGTs. Also, none of them had an intercooler installed. All of this led to short engine life. On the bright side, Most of them never got to the "chuffing" problem with the 7.3 and some of them never even had to change pumps or injectors so I guess they "saved" themselves money. Those poor engines had very short lives! That just goes to prove that ignorance isn't always bliss.

 

[truckermark]

So went looked at truck. Leake appears to be from oil pan seal. . other things. He had the truck pre warmed when i got there(hot raditor). White puff of smoke at start up. No coolant in resevoir.. On the plus side the blow by was not bad at all. Thought i heard the lightest tick at start up but it went away. Overall i told him id thi.k about it. A little sketched out by pre warming it up. Also no pyro either. Oil level was low due to leake

 

[IDIBRONCO]

If by "oil pan seal" you mean an oil pan gasket, then that's the issue right there. These engines didn't have an oil pan gasket from the factory and will leak if one is used. Yes you will have to pull the engine out to replace it, but that wouldn't be a deal breaker for me, maybe a bargaining point though. If the engine doesn't have much blowby, then it probably still has a lot of life left in it. The best one that I saw was a 93 F250 with a Factory Turbo. Everything was just like it left the dealership. It had 305,000 miles and came to us for a head replacement due to an exhaust valve guide issue. It looked like it had 3000 miles on the engine instead of 300,000+. The accelerated wear was due to how the truck was used. If someone tried to pull the guts out of the truck and set land speed records while pulling a load, then their engines didn't last very long. This guy delivered campers all over the country for a living and didn't get in a big hurry to get there. If he was going up a steeper grade, he'd just downshift and slow down instead of trying to push the throttle pedal clear through the floor. Amazing! That's the same thing that gets mentioned over and over on here even today.

 

[truckermark]

Thanks for all the help. Im goin to look over the site to see what its like. Pulling a motor of this magnitude. Im sure its real heavy... I may just pull the tigger. Thanks again!

 

[IDIBRONCO]

If you've ever pulled an engine before, it's fairly similar. Yes it's bigger and heavier, but don't let that intimidate you. If you pull the turbo off first, it will come out easier. I used to do this for a living for 6 years so I have done it a few times.

 

[truckermark]

Got it pull turbo.. Id like to leave trans in truck as well. Is that doable. Or is removing it worth the effort

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I think it's WAAAY easier to just pull the engine and leave the transmission in the truck. The only time I even attempted to pull them together was when I pulled the engine and transmission out of my first 85 F250 after I wrecked it (the top of the cab, the bed, and the bottom of the door glass was all in a line). I did cut the core support out of the way since it was totaled. I got them out together, but it was a lot harder than just pulling the engine by itself.