Need help with CDR grommet (Rubber piece) on 92 7.3L ATS Turbo setup

[atc92]

Hi All,

New to the forum and learning on my 92 7.3 idi f250 with a ats turbo kit from the dealer. Truck has about 130K miles and I have owned it for about 1.5 years now.

Attempting to locate or purchase a cdr grommet part number:
Ford : F3TZ-6A892-B
International : 1813249c1

Both obsolete and discontinued. This is the rubber grommet that connects the intake tube off the air filter housing to the CDR valve on the Driver side. It is a specialized part as it has a rubber collar to clamp to the cdr. The cdr has a very small lip on its base to connect anything to it.

My other option is welding a small 1" pipe to extend the lip and slip on a rubber hose onto it. The old grommet was leaking oil as it was old/original and torn at the collar.

I want to keep things original so any help would greatly be appreciated.


Also chasing an issue with the WTS light not turning on when key is on. This used to work fine but early Nov it stopped working as far as I can tell. I replaced 6 of the 8 GPs with factory replacements. I couldn't get to the 2 GPS under the turbo on the Pass side- its too tight (any tricks to this other than turbo removal would be appreciated). In doing the plugs, the harness bullet connectors began to fall apart- so I repaired those as well.

Still no WTS light. So I replaced the Gp controller with a new OEM motorcraft/International controller with relay. I tested the controller, smoked a little due to what I believe was handling from my hands on the main bar that sends voltage to the GPs. I probed it and it does appear to send 10-12V to the glow plugs for several seconds before clicking off. I do not see the WTS light though(I still need to probe the wire that sends the signal to the light). Could the light bulb itself have gone bad? If I try turning the engine over will it activate this light momentarily like the water in fuel light? Currently have not started the motor for about a month as I go through the engine and troubleshoot and replace parts so I forget what lights turn on momentarily.


Recent work I did:
6 of 8 GP replaced OEM
1 piece wix filter WIX
Fuel heating element deleted
New VC gaskets Felpro
New CDR OEM
New Controller/relay OEM
Cleaned/oiled the K&N filter (it was really gunked up)
Oil change with larger filter off the Powerstroke model OEM

Work I need to perform:

Clean up the engine block on the pass side from years of VC leakage.
Connect the CDR to the intake tract
Test the coolant with a test strip to determine if additive is needed
Rear end pinion seal/ RR (its been leaking- I noticed when I removed the bed to install a gooseneck)

 

[Old Goat]

Is this the part you need?

Ford 6.9 7.3 Diesel Crankshaft Crankcase Breather PCV Valve Retainer Grommet OEM | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Ford 6.9 7.3 Diesel Crankshaft Crankcase Breather PCV Valve Retainer Grommet OEM at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

Goat

 

[chillman88]

@typ4 should have the grommet you need if you shoot him a PM.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

It should be the smaller one in the picture that Old Goat posted. They also come in a full gasket set (not that I'm recommending buying one).
For the glow plugs that are underneath the turbo, I like to use a deep 3/8", 1/4" drive socket, a universal on top of that, with at least a 6' extension on top of the universal. IIRC, on cylinder #5, it's easier to completely loosen the glow plug, remove the universal from the socket with a flat tip screwdriver (the universal will be against the bottom side of the injector lines at this point), then remove the socket and the glow plug with a magnet. Then, for the install, use that magnet to slip the glow plug into the hole, put everything back on the glow plug and tighten. Once the glow plug is tight, you'll be able to remove the tools fairly easily. Taking the air cleaner parts off may make it easier to work in that area and that's a lot easier than trying to remove the turbo. Again, I don't really remember that part since it's been 20 years since I've worked on an IDI with a turbo.

 

[typ4]

Hi All,

New to the forum and learning on my 92 7.3 idi f250 with a ats turbo kit from the dealer. Truck has about 130K miles and I have owned it for about 1.5 years now.

Attempting to locate or purchase a cdr grommet part number:
Ford : F3TZ-6A892-B
International : 1813249c1

Both obsolete and discontinued. This is the rubber grommet that connects the intake tube off the air filter housing to the CDR valve on the Driver side. It is a specialized part as it has a rubber collar to clamp to the cdr. The cdr has a very small lip on its base to connect anything to it.

My other option is welding a small 1" pipe to extend the lip and slip on a rubber hose onto it. The old grommet was leaking oil as it was old/original and torn at the collar.

I want to keep things original so any help would greatly be appreciated.


Also chasing an issue with the WTS light not turning on when key is on. This used to work fine but early Nov it stopped working as far as I can tell. I replaced 6 of the 8 GPs with factory replacements. I couldn't get to the 2 GPS under the turbo on the Pass side- its too tight (any tricks to this other than turbo removal would be appreciated). In doing the plugs, the harness bullet connectors began to fall apart- so I repaired those as well.

Still no WTS light. So I replaced the Gp controller with a new OEM motorcraft/International controller with relay. I tested the controller, smoked a little due to what I believe was handling from my hands on the main bar that sends voltage to the GPs. I probed it and it does appear to send 10-12V to the glow plugs for several seconds before clicking off. I do not see the WTS light though(I still need to probe the wire that sends the signal to the light). Could the light bulb itself have gone bad? If I try turning the engine over will it activate this light momentarily like the water in fuel light? Currently have not started the motor for about a month as I go through the engine and troubleshoot and replace parts so I forget what lights turn on momentarily.


Recent work I did:
6 of 8 GP replaced OEM
1 piece wix filter WIX
Fuel heating element deleted
New VC gaskets Felpro
New CDR OEM
New Controller/relay OEM
Cleaned/oiled the K&N filter (it was really gunked up)
Oil change with larger filter off the Powerstroke model OEM

Work I need to perform:

Clean up the engine block on the pass side from years of VC leakage.
Connect the CDR to the intake tract
Test the coolant with a test strip to determine if additive is needed
Rear end pinion seal/ RR (its been leaking- I noticed when I removed the bed to install a gooseneck)

Do you have a steel tube or a rubber hose from the CD are to the air filter? Here is a link to my website which will help you with parts. If you have a steel to buy might have one of the specialty pieces to go with that to hook it up.

Russ Repair

russrepair.com

 

[atc92]

Is this the part you need?

Ford 6.9 7.3 Diesel Crankshaft Crankcase Breather PCV Valve Retainer Grommet OEM | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Ford 6.9 7.3 Diesel Crankshaft Crankcase Breather PCV Valve Retainer Grommet OEM at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

Goat

Thank you Goat but that is for the NA setup. The turbo setup mounts the CDR on the driver side valve cover and uses a metal tube about 14" to connect to the intake tract. I wish it was that simple but its not.

 

[atc92]

Do you have a steel tube or a rubber hose from the CD are to the air filter? Here is a link to my website which will help you with parts. If you have a steel to buy might have one of the specialty pieces to go with that to hook it up.

Russ Repair

russrepair.com

Mine is a metal tube looks to be yellow zinc plated as far as I can tell. I will check your site out now.
I have attached a picture of someones engine bay. You can see the rubber grommet with the clamp on it. Thats the piece I need. It connects to a metal pipe that connects into the port on the ats air box.
I couldn't find this part on your site.

The OEM #'s are
F3TZ-6A892-b (ford)
1813249C1 (International)
Thank you

 

[chillman88]

Mine is a metal tube looks to be yellow zinc plated as far as I can tell. I will check your site out now.
I have attached a picture of someones engine bay. You can see the rubber grommet with the clamp on it. Thats the piece I need. It connects to a metal pipe that connects into the port on the ats air box.
I couldn't find this part on your site.

The OEM #'s are
F3TZ-6A892-b (ford)
1813249C1 (International)
Thank you

Isn't that just a piece of hose between the two? It looks like it from the picture. I know mine has a hose barb on the CDR in that location.

 

[atc92]

Isn't that just a piece of hose between the two? It looks like it from the picture. I know mine has a hose barb on the CDR in that location.

It is a rubber piece but has a flanged collar so that it clamps to the CDR making a tight seal. The problem with the CDR design is the the inlet hole extends about 3 mm from the base making it impossible to clamp anything to it. My other option is to weld a pipe extension onto the new cdr and use a standard rubber hose as a coupler. I already cut the outlet side of the old CDR that goes into the valve cover and can weld this section to the base side. Here is a diagram of an NA International Truck showing the part in question #5. You can see its design. I threw mine away as it was torn at the collar and was useless at this point. I thought a replacement would be no issue but now it seems parts are obsolete.

 

[chillman88]

It is a rubber piece but has a flanged collar so that it clamps to the CDR making a tight seal. The problem with the CDR design is the the inlet hole extends about 3 mm from the base making it impossible to clamp anything to it. My other option is to weld a pipe extension onto the new cdr and use a standard rubber hose as a coupler. I already cut the outlet side of the old CDR that goes into the valve cover and can weld this section to the base side. Here is a diagram of an NA International Truck showing the part in question #5. You can see its design. I threw mine away as it was torn at the collar and was useless at this point. I thought a replacement would be no issue but now it seems parts are obsolete.

Ah yes I see now. Mine has a barb on a plate that pinches a rubber ring between them to seal. Similar but different. That's why I was confused because it looks very much like mine.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Ah yes I see now. Mine has a barb on a plate that pinches a rubber ring between them to seal. Similar but different. That's why I was confused because it looks very much like mine.

Now I may be wrong on this, but I believe that the plate that bolts onto the CDR on the 093/Factory Turbo is made of metal. I also believe that the rubber seal that goes in between is the same as the one that seals the CDR to the intake on N/A applications (Ford only). This is also the same thing as the smaller seal in the picture that Old Goat posted. This seal that goes in between the CDR and the plate makes it so you don't have to clamp anything to the CDR. Just like the N/A version has nothing clamped to it. The other plate that Chillman88 mentioned is the piece that gets the rubber hose clamped to.

 

[aggiediesel01]

What idi bronco describes is what I'm familiar with on ATS and factory turbo trucks. I know ATS used that special CDR valve cover that was originally an IH part as part of their kit but the few that I've seen have a moulded rubber hose that goes from a nipple on the intake casting to a nipple on the adapter plate that goes in between the CDR and its mount bracket. The CDR is sealed to the adapter plate with the flat rubber ring that is used to seal it at the back of the intake on N/A trucks. If you have something like what is pictured in the IH diagram and it's NLA then it might be easiest to convert to the factory turbo style adapter plate with a nipple on it. Then you can use a short piece of emissions rated hose to connect to what you've got.

You can see part of the nipple on that adapter plate in the photo of this post.

7.3 IDI Turbo Conversion Shopping List

Hello all. Long time lurker, first time poster.... Apologies if this question's been addressed elsewhere; I didn't find the info in a search or from skimming the FAQ. Here's what I have: 1990 F350, n/a 7.3 IDI, 2wd, 5 speed. Was a CCLB, but I swapped on a regular cab and build a big flat...

www.oilburners.net

 

[atc92]

What idi bronco describes is what I'm familiar with on ATS and factory turbo trucks. I know ATS used that special CDR valve cover that was originally an IH part as part of their kit but the few that I've seen have a moulded rubber hose that goes from a nipple on the intake casting to a nipple on the adapter plate that goes in between the CDR and its mount bracket. The CDR is sealed to the adapter plate with the flat rubber ring that is used to seal it at the back of the intake on N/A trucks. If you have something like what is pictured in the IH diagram and it's NLA then it might be easiest to convert to the factory turbo style adapter plate with a nipple on it. Then you can use a short piece of emissions rated hose to connect to what you've got.

You can see part of the nipple on that adapter plate in the photo of this post.

7.3 IDI Turbo Conversion Shopping List

Hello all. Long time lurker, first time poster.... Apologies if this question's been addressed elsewhere; I didn't find the info in a search or from skimming the FAQ. Here's what I have: 1990 F350, n/a 7.3 IDI, 2wd, 5 speed. Was a CCLB, but I swapped on a regular cab and build a big flat...

www.oilburners.net

That looks interesting, I suppose I can weld onto my adaptor plate or does anyone have one of these plates for sale? Mine is a flat flat with a hole in the center. If I can get a plate like the one in the link, then I can use the flat round rubber washer that is used to make the seal similar to the NA style on the back of the intake manifold. Thanks for sharing as I learn all the various setups.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I haven't seen that before. Of course I'm no expert on turbo set ups either. I wonder if yours was like the "regular" ones and the nipple was somehow broken off?

 

[atc92]

I haven't seen that before. Of course I'm no expert on turbo set ups either. I wonder if yours was like the "regular" ones and the nipple was somehow broken off?

No mine never had the nipple. Here are pictures of my setup. I'm looking for that rubber section that goes between the cdr and pipe.