i just got mine done last weekend, only driving it did was from the garage to the exhaust shop. love the turbo whistle though, it made me smile haha. its waiting to get 4" exhaust on it now. i was impressed how even with it ending at the downpipe how much quieter it was than before the turbo without a muffler. would tell girls to sit in the middle so we could hear each other talk, gonna have to come up with another line now haha. good luck with the fuel leak and valve noise, dont know what to suggest regarding those. maybe the turbo got hot and melted some fuel return lines or somethin, i dunno.
93 f250 build
- Thread starter phazertwo
- Start date
phazertwo
Die Summer DIE!
Found the main fuel leek. The hose broke on the "T" block behind the intake (the one that has the line that heads back to the tank). Replaced that and I can't tell if it is still leaking just a tad somewhere or if it just smells like diesel from the massive leak that I had. Non of the caps are wet, and all the lines are in good shape.
Yeah, the sound difference is incredible! I hated the way my truck sounded like a big block gasser before, but now all you can hear above 2k RPM is turbo. Even from 1.5k you can hear it really well.
I am starting to wonder if the noise I am hearing is just want an IDI sounds like, but I think I am just saying that to make myself feel better. I REALLY REALLY fear that it will need a head job sooner rather than later.
If that is the case, it will just come out and I will go through it and add some ARP studs, and possibly lower the compression ratio. Problem is I don't have time and space to do it!!
PZ
Yeah, the sound difference is incredible! I hated the way my truck sounded like a big block gasser before, but now all you can hear above 2k RPM is turbo. Even from 1.5k you can hear it really well.
I am starting to wonder if the noise I am hearing is just want an IDI sounds like, but I think I am just saying that to make myself feel better. I REALLY REALLY fear that it will need a head job sooner rather than later.
If that is the case, it will just come out and I will go through it and add some ARP studs, and possibly lower the compression ratio. Problem is I don't have time and space to do it!!
PZ
phazertwo
Die Summer DIE!
I went today to adjust the clutch. I expected it to be similar to my Toyota, but it's not at all! I couldn't even figure out how to adjust it! However i think my master cylinder is not properly linked to my clutch pedal. It seems to be missing a bushing or something since the hole on the master cylinder is larger than the stud on the pedal assembly! Here is a pic of how it is rigged.
PZ
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PZ
thats the factory rod there is no adjustment to it, you could replace the bushing and fix some of the problem- if you need more than that I think napa sells an adjustable rod- my truck had one when I got it.
flareside_thun
Reviving The General Tao
Yup, need the bushing in that there hole.....
phazertwo
Die Summer DIE!
Yeah it's pretty drive able the way it is, just a bit touchie going into second. I think if I got that bushing life would be good.
Does anyone know where to get just that bushing? Or do I need to get a whole new master cylinder? Does the bushing even come with that?
PZ
Does anyone know where to get just that bushing? Or do I need to get a whole new master cylinder? Does the bushing even come with that?
PZ
redneckaggie
rebel w/o a cause
you can get the bushing at oreillys or napa in the help section but If your tranny is hard to shift at all I would definately recomend the adjustable rod from napa. I cant believe how smooth my zf shifts after that rod went in.
phazertwo
Die Summer DIE!
Got a part number for the adjustable rod? What is the "help section" at napa?
PZ
PZ
reklund
Full Access Member
Check this thread out. I even put the part number in there for you 
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=37957
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=37957
redneckaggie
rebel w/o a cause
this is the adjustable push rod. could someone add this to the parts bin please
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=BK_6151187_0066607318
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=BK_6151187_0066607318
phazertwo
Die Summer DIE!
Thanks guys, I will try to pick one of those up this week!
PZ
PZ
phazertwo
Die Summer DIE!
Just talked to my buddy at Napa and he thinks that he has a clutch push rod bushing to go with the adjustable push rod! If it works I will post part numbers!
PZ
PZ
phazertwo
Die Summer DIE!
It has been quite a while since I have updated this thread, so I figured I would real fast.
So I bought the push rod and the bushings, but have yet to install them (stupid work is taking up to much time, and the time I do get off I am trying to do fun things instead of working on vehicles) Once I do get them installed I should be able to post part numbers, I just want to make sure that they fit before I go off posting numbers!
I have adjusted the waste gate so that it will hit 10psi boost empty headed up a decent hill. I do need to re-work my exhaust. The muffler is way restrictive, and after riding around in my friends straight piped PSD, I want to go that route. Also, since I was so busy at work I had my wife pick up the truck from the exhaust shop that made the adapter for the banks DP to the hypermax exhaust. I crawled under my truck a few weeks ago to find that they CRIMPED THE HELL out of that adapter. VERY VERY poor showing by this shop.
Also I have been having problems with that tiny K&N air filter on the turbo. It plugs up in a bout a week of driving (and worse if I have to yank the trailer up the rabbit ears and back), which creates a nice black cloud of $$ behind me when the truck is not boosting
. However Dyoung shipped me a factory intake late last week, and I am eager to receive it and install it to see if it helps with my issues.
Oil leak. I think I did a crappy job of getting the hose clamp on the turbo pedestal, because the valley pan keeps filling with oil. Hoping for a warm evening after work soon to get back there and find out whats going on. Not leaking too bad, doesn't seem to even lower the level on the dip stick, but it drives me nuts that there is drips under my truck!
Like I said earlier I am hoping to add a oil pressure gauge to my triple a-pillar, that will be pulling the reading off the factory spot on the turbo. I will feel way more comfortable with a REAL gauge feeding me that info instead of the POS factory dummy gauge. Also thinking about adding a Hypermax Smoke Puffer Limiter, anyone have any experience with one of these?
Also, I have started on a WMO set up, but you can read about that here
PZ
So I bought the push rod and the bushings, but have yet to install them (stupid work is taking up to much time, and the time I do get off I am trying to do fun things instead of working on vehicles) Once I do get them installed I should be able to post part numbers, I just want to make sure that they fit before I go off posting numbers!
I have adjusted the waste gate so that it will hit 10psi boost empty headed up a decent hill. I do need to re-work my exhaust. The muffler is way restrictive, and after riding around in my friends straight piped PSD, I want to go that route. Also, since I was so busy at work I had my wife pick up the truck from the exhaust shop that made the adapter for the banks DP to the hypermax exhaust. I crawled under my truck a few weeks ago to find that they CRIMPED THE HELL out of that adapter. VERY VERY poor showing by this shop.
Also I have been having problems with that tiny K&N air filter on the turbo. It plugs up in a bout a week of driving (and worse if I have to yank the trailer up the rabbit ears and back), which creates a nice black cloud of $$ behind me when the truck is not boosting
. However Dyoung shipped me a factory intake late last week, and I am eager to receive it and install it to see if it helps with my issues.Oil leak. I think I did a crappy job of getting the hose clamp on the turbo pedestal, because the valley pan keeps filling with oil. Hoping for a warm evening after work soon to get back there and find out whats going on. Not leaking too bad, doesn't seem to even lower the level on the dip stick, but it drives me nuts that there is drips under my truck!
Like I said earlier I am hoping to add a oil pressure gauge to my triple a-pillar, that will be pulling the reading off the factory spot on the turbo. I will feel way more comfortable with a REAL gauge feeding me that info instead of the POS factory dummy gauge. Also thinking about adding a Hypermax Smoke Puffer Limiter, anyone have any experience with one of these?
Also, I have started on a WMO set up, but you can read about that here
PZ
I have a similar setup to yours now. I just went ahead and plugged the wastegate on mine. I can only reach ~14 psi if I really step on it.
For my 3rd A pillar gauge, I went with an oil temp gauge. Pressure is really something you have or dont.. a precise reading isn't necessary imo. Knowing how hot your engine is getting is.
Fixing your exhaust and deleting the muffler should let you boost more and lower your egts a bit.
For my 3rd A pillar gauge, I went with an oil temp gauge. Pressure is really something you have or dont.. a precise reading isn't necessary imo. Knowing how hot your engine is getting is.
Fixing your exhaust and deleting the muffler should let you boost more and lower your egts a bit.
phazertwo
Die Summer DIE!
So the truck developed a oil leak over the last month that kinda got out of hand. When it started I assumed it was the hose clamp on the turbo return line going into the valley pan. Turns out it was the connection between the grommet and the valley pan, which means the turbo gets to come back out. THANK GOD I used high temp anti seize on everything! Thing came right apart. Even tinkering around (I knida forgot that I bought a few tools to make it easier/possible) it only took me 45 minutes. However when I was crawling off the top of the engine cradling the turbo like a baby in my left arm, I thought I was putting my right hand on the valve cover but it turned out to be the fuel return cap. So now it is down for another week waiting on a new set of caps. Good news is I found turbo specific caps.
Here's some good info on caps.
Look at the first chart it will give you all the info you need on the fuel return line caps for a 6.9 or a 7.3.
However this guy had better prices!
Since I bought my last set less than a year ago from Pensacola diesel, the fuel hose is actually degrading to the point where the hoses are leaking!! Also the caps seem SUPER brittle, so I am hoping that these more expensive kits are higher quality.
Anyway, the K&N air filter is CRAP! DO NOT USE THIS FILTER! Dyoung sent me a factory air box which I will use when I reassemble the turbo system. I am really excited to see if it increases my boost response!
PZ
Here's some good info on caps.
Look at the first chart it will give you all the info you need on the fuel return line caps for a 6.9 or a 7.3.
However this guy had better prices!
Since I bought my last set less than a year ago from Pensacola diesel, the fuel hose is actually degrading to the point where the hoses are leaking!! Also the caps seem SUPER brittle, so I am hoping that these more expensive kits are higher quality.
Anyway, the K&N air filter is CRAP! DO NOT USE THIS FILTER! Dyoung sent me a factory air box which I will use when I reassemble the turbo system. I am really excited to see if it increases my boost response!
PZ
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