93 f250 build

phazertwo

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Thanks!

I have a banks down pipe that is suppose to fit with no bending. Also the tranny is already back in the truck. I have a port-a-power with a duck bill that I will use to bend it if need be, but I shouldn't need it.

PZ
 

reklund

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You on the marlin boards at all?
PZ

Used to really frequent the Marlin Board a bunch. Not so much lately. If you search their tow-rig forum for "Project Crawler Hauler" you'll find an old thread of mine. My Ford has changed tons since back then...

These days, I pretty much stick to Pirate4x4 and OilBurners. I don't have much time to keep up with all the other forums I used to.


Ryan
 

phazertwo

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Used to really frequent the Marlin Board a bunch. Not so much lately. If you search their tow-rig forum for "Project Crawler Hauler" you'll find an old thread of mine. My Ford has changed tons since back then...

These days, I pretty much stick to Pirate4x4 and OilBurners. I don't have much time to keep up with all the other forums I used to.


Ryan

I know how it is to keep up with more than two forums. I tend to just read the ones that apply to my current projects. My build on marlin hasn't had a post in a 6 months I bet.
 

93_444idi

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Is it necessary to relocate the GPR? I ask because I am doing a similar project soon. I did notice on the truck I took the turbo setup off of the GPR was on the passenger valve cover. I have that GPR and cover just in case I need them.
 

phazertwo

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got some done yesterday.

You must be registered for see images attach

:D

The banks down pipe DID NOT fit with out bending up the pinch weld up. So that took allot of time. I had to take a break and run to the parker store to have them make my turbo oil line, but I had enough time to get it installed.

I read in a few different places that the Hypermax exhaust that I have works with the banks down pipe.... NOT THE CASE!!! the banks ends at and angle point towards the ground, and the hyper max is pointing straight at the front of the truck! I will have to have a shop make an adapter. The only thing that works with these two is the exhaust slides into the DP, thats it!

Today on my lunch I swung by the shop we use to work on our big truck (international 4700 with a 466e) and bought two gallons of valvoline SAE 50 synthetic MT fluid. $50 bucks a gallon, but better the some of than some of the other options. I will have to see how the ZF likes it with that dual mass.

I also had to buy two new u joints for the front drive shaft.

Bought some different wrenches from craftsmen, but neither worked to get at the pedestal nuts. Finally just took and extra 9/16 boxed end and beat it into a shape that works. Guess I will be returning the other two...

Hope I am almost done, this project is a nickel and dimer for sure!:(

I will try to get some pics of the DP and exhaust so that everyone can see what I am talking about, and hopefully not make the same mistake.

PZ
 

93_444idi

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i noticed the same thing (got my banks dp about a week ago) im gonna have my shop bend 3" pipe so its horizontal, then i have an adaptor to go from 3" dp to 4" exhaust. that sucks the banks pipe wont fit though, they took 1/8" off the diameter for nothing. and it's rediculous that they charge 100 for their downpipe and they cant even run it all the way down so it's horizontal like the stock one. wont hurt my build, just gonna cost me more money and time because theyre too cheap to build their downpipe correctly.
 

phazertwo

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Is it necessary to relocate the GPR? I ask because I am doing a similar project soon. I did notice on the truck I took the turbo setup off of the GPR was on the passenger valve cover. I have that GPR and cover just in case I need them.


No, just makes it easier to get to. It was not very hard.

I wish I would have done my new injectors, IP, glow plugs, and GPR and controller all at the same time.'would have been really nice to do the GPR and controller at the same time! Would have much eaiser for everything!

PZ
 

phazertwo

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i noticed the same thing (got my banks dp about a week ago) im gonna have my shop bend 3" pipe so its horizontal, then i have an adaptor to go from 3" dp to 4" exhaust. that sucks the banks pipe wont fit though, they took 1/8" off the diameter for nothing. and it's rediculous that they charge 100 for their downpipe and they cant even run it all the way down so it's horizontal like the stock one. wont hurt my build, just gonna cost me more money and time because theyre too cheap to build their downpipe correctly.

:cheers: all true! :cheers:

Only thing I can add is that it's made from quality material. The hypermax exhaust is not going to last nearly as long as that down pipe!!

PZ
 

phazertwo

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So I was up for jury duty on Monday, but my number was not called! I was super excited to get this bad boy buttoned up! Until I saw This....
You must be registered for see images attach


Guess its another day of freezing my ass off... -cuss

PZ
 

93_444idi

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nice man! the turbo whistle very loud? supposedly the bigger dp and exhaust make it louder
 

phazertwo

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nice man! the turbo whistle very loud? supposedly the bigger dp and exhaust make it louder


With the straight down pipe the turbo whistle is AWESOME! I like VERY much. I cannot believe how much quieter the engine is even with the open exhaust. It is MUCH quieter than stock exhaust when it was NA!

HOWEVER, I will be putting the hypermax exhaust on with the muffler that came with it. I know it will kill the turbo whistle, but I am going for a super comfortable road tripper.



Sounds like you will be doing the same set up very soon. Its awesome man, I love it! I have not even turned the IP up yet (which I had set down two flats due to my altitude) and it has made a difference. Can't wait to get to tuning!!

PZ
 

phazertwo

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Some updates.

So, I got the hypermax exhaust done. Actually didn't hurt the turbo whistle to bad. However I think thats because of the cone K&N that I have on it right now. The truck is now even quieter than it was, and I love it. Cruising at 2500 RPM I can have a conversation with my passengers with out raising my voice. Before I was yelling just so people in the passenger seat could hear me. I like it!!

Next, I did the SMF because I thought my DMF was rattling itself to death. Turns out the noise I thought was the DMF was not at all. Now I am thinking valve train noise.... This sucks!

The waste gate was set at 6PSI from the factory. By set, I mean crimped. I drilled out the crimps, and ended up breaking the rod of inside the rod end... opps:rolleyes:

I simply cut 7/8ths of an inch off the rod end, than welded a 1/4-28 x 7/8 stand off (or union nut) onto the rod end. Guessed at the length the rod needed to be, and now she is boosting 8PSI, I am going for 10PSI, so I will have to adjust it some more once I get a trailer hooked up to it!

I turned my IP back to FACTORY settings.... :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup: Hauls ass. No other way to put it really. Hills that I would have to down shift empty before I could cruise in 5th gear, and accelerate easy, with the EGT's under control. From here I will go up one flat at a time until I am happy with my EGT level, but that also needs the trailer for more tuning.

LAST! -cuss I put about 50 miles on it and the last 10 or so it started leaking diesel in the range of GPM. Its insane. I got home and it was dark out, and have been working from 6AM to 9PM ever sense so I have not even popped the hood to see where its leaking from.

Also, I just plumbed the CDR down to the ground, and now it looks like my truck is smoking at stop lights.... Not cool. Need to figure out a legit intake ASAP! (I might band-aid by pluming the CDR into the filter I have, but would rather make a intake, will have to see what $$$ will allow this month).

Any ideas on the valve noise. Sounds JUST like loose exhaust manifold on my old 2.5l wranger, but the manifolds are all tight!

PZ
 

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