7.3 idi trouble... thinking h/g's or cavitation

[OLDBULL8]

this is the one im gonna get long as its good its the stant i can get it at advanced auto

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Since you insist on getting a t'stat other than a Motorcraft, NAPA has this one ( T'stat 385-190 and Gasket C24551). Also, CHECK YOUR BOTTOM RAD HOSE TO MAKE SURE IT HAS THE SPRING IN IT. iF THE SPRING IS NOT THERE THEN IT WILL COLLAPASE AND THE WP CANNOT CIRCULATE THE COOLANT, resulting in HOT HEADS making steam pressureizing the system. Just squeeze the hose and you can feel the spring if it's there.

 

[73idi88f350]

Shouldn't the steam smell like exhaust? I am assume the motor is done but wanna make sure

 

[Wyreth]

If your system is pressurizing, and steaming, before your engine is warming up. That heat/pressure has to be coming from somewhere.

The steam won't necessarily smell like exhaust, it's got all that coolant to "filter" it. If you want to be sure, go get a combustion gas test kit, and test your coolant.

http://www.amazon.com/UVIEW-560000-Combustion-Leak-Tester/dp/B000NPDL76 You can prolly find it cheaper, but that is what you are looking for.

 

[73idi88f350]

If your system is pressurizing, and steaming, before your engine is warming up. That heat/pressure has to be coming from somewhere.

The steam won't necessarily smell like exhaust, it's got all that coolant to "filter" it. If you want to be sure, go get a combustion gas test kit, and test your coolant.

http://www.amazon.com/UVIEW-560000-Combustion-Leak-Tester/dp/B000NPDL76 You can prolly find it cheaper, but that is what you are looking for.

to be honest i don't know if its doing so on an ice cold motor.. any time i have really checked it, it wasnt ice cold.. but had sat for 5-6hours

 

[dmaxjoe]

I have used the stant. Not sure on the part number but it is the most expensive one. If I remember it was around $30.00 at advance auto. They did list a different one that was around $10.00 but it looked like your average everyday gasser t-stat. I purchased the expensive one 4 yrs. ago and no problems.

 

[73idi88f350]

I have used the stant. Not sure on the part number but it is the most expensive one. If I remember it was around $30.00 at advance auto. They did list a different one that was around $10.00 but it looked like your average everyday gasser t-stat. I purchased the expensive one 4 yrs. ago and no problems.

its listed for 15.99 at my advanced auto

and i already have the felt pro gaskest

 

[racer30]

You need to put a cooling system test cap on the rad to see the pressure at start up. If it builds pressure as soon as it starts then you have a problem. If it was a bad leak you could see it pulse at each cumbustion stroke. Dont panic,....Test it, then report the test results. I have seen cooling systems take some hard driving to purge out the air, You could also pull the truck up a steep slope when hot to get the bubbles to move forward to the t stat location.

 

[73idi88f350]

This is this morning give me log enough to jump out of truck and grab my iPhone is about how long it ran for maybe 30sec

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UhJUE83oLxs&feature=youtube_gdata_player

 

[gingrass179]

that only running 30 seconds and pushing its atleast a headgasket but could be as bad as cavitation headgaskets can be done in a day and youll spend about 300 after fluids

 

[73idi88f350]

What would you guys do pull the heads or get a motor

 

[gingrass179]

pull the heads and scope out your cylinders if all looks good get the head and block decked

 

[73idi88f350]

How can u deck he block when it's still in the truck.... If I pull the motor to deck I'm putting another in

At the moment it runs and drives I don't wanna tear it apart and have it sit for months so I'm kind of stuck

Think I'll get another running motor to threw it and then put that one in since the one in now runs great other then the coolant issue

 

[towcat]

i've run one in far worse shape cross-country. wasn't by choice. out here I can buy trucks for 400-700 with good motors, so the choice for me is pretty obvious even though I have a machine shop background.

 

[Agnem]

OK hang on here... hang on. We need to be a little more scientific here. First, we must determine if it is a head gasket, or cavitation. Unless your into just swapping motors, and then even if you do, you owe it to yourself or whoever gets your old engine to do this test.

Shut the engine off, and drain the oil. Leave the oil pan plug out. Get a glow plug adapter, and start presurizing each cylinder in turn, watching for bubbles from the radiator. Once you find a cylinder that bubbles, check the adjacent cylinder. If it bubbles also, your definitely looking at a head gasket problem. If you only find one cylinder that does it, park the piston in that cylinder at TDC and presurize again (you may need to hold the crank still). If you still get bubbles, it's a bad head gasket, or a cracked head. If no bubbles, then most likely cavitation, as the porosity is below piston height. Presurize the cooling system, and look for coolant coming out of the oil pan. That would confirm cavitation. Knowing which head and which cylinder is the issue will be of value to someone.

 

[Agnem]

Don't forget your pistons need to be on the compression or power stroke to do these tests.