7.3 idi trouble... thinking h/g's or cavitation

73idi88f350

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That's my prob is the system is holding coolant pressure for days then it can't be h/g or cavitation well I would assume... But I know gas motors. Of diesel
 

gingrass179

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well your cylinder has 400+ psi per cylinder so when you stop it has all that pressure pushing on your weakspot sloooowwwlly leaking out...its gonna be a small tiny itty bitty pinhole in a cylinder most likely since your trucks system.wasnt maintaned by the previous owner it is possible for cavitation to occur
 

snicklas

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I did pick up a tstat from autozone which I havent replaced yet

Is the check ball in that little hex?

Yes, the little ball is in the hex

Also, I would recommend AGAINST using the Autozone thermostat. Many have not had success using the aftermarket thermostats. Only get a Ford/IH thermostat for the IDI. I think we have only 1 member that has used a Stant brand thermostat with any documented success. Other have tried different stats, and end up with the factory one.
 

towcat

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stop. listen.
firstly. these motors are a ***** to burp out the air. unless you have the system that draws down a vac in your cooling system, it will take a cycle of hard driving to burp.
second. change your thermostat with one YOU ONLY BUY FROM FORD FOR THESE MOTORS. use no substitutes. it will cost you $20-$25 bux with gasket. spend the money.
third, "if" you suspect over-pressurization from combustion gasses into your cooling system, put on a SEVEN POUND CAP. It will keep the pressure variances down and if nothing else help burp the system easier.
do these items first and report the results.
 

73idi88f350

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stop. listen.
firstly. these motors are a ***** to burp out the air. unless you have the system that draws down a vac in your cooling system, it will take a cycle of hard driving to burp.
second. change your thermostat with one YOU ONLY BUY FROM FORD FOR THESE MOTORS. use no substitutes. it will cost you $20-$25 bux with gasket. spend the money.
third, "if" you suspect over-pressurization from combustion gasses into your cooling system, put on a SEVEN POUND CAP. It will keep the pressure variances down and if nothing else help burp the system easier.
do these items first and report the results.
now this is the kind of info im looking for.. i did pick up a fuel filter on my way home hope that might cure my slight knock at different rpms.

when i got home form work today i made a quick pull down the street in first built some boost parked it and hurry up and jumped out after shutting it down.. ( mind you this is with the old bad rad cap) the system sounds like a water fall and is sucking the coolant back out the over flow bottle and had the upper rad hose 1/2 collapsed..
 

73idi88f350

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well you guys talked me into not using the autozone tstat looks like junk compared to the ford,stant,or Murray Stats (at oreillys)

i plan to grab the stant because its available right now local. the one at oreillys is also available but rather go with something thats known to work.
 

towcat

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considering where the thermostat is at, I'd wait and get the right one. this design is what you are looking for.
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73idi88f350

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considering where the thermostat is at, I'd wait and get the right one. this design is what you are looking for.
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this is the one im gonna get long as its good its the stant i can get it at advanced auto
You must be registered for see images attach
 

Wyreth

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on a cold morning how long til it pressurizes
Just about right away

If your coolant system is pressurizing right away, you are leaking compression/combustion into the water jacket. Period.

When it's cold, pop your hood, then start it. If your overflow tank is a hot tub by the time you get back under the hood.... Well... HG or Cavitation.
 

73idi88f350

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Well it don't bubble running with the cap off it just steams so I assume that steam is causing my pressure.. I just found this out last night messing around with it. I would rather know a little more for sure before I tear it down and waste my time
 

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