5.9 should I buy this?

[Classicfordguy]

Hey guys, as I posed a few weeks ago I'm looking to build a 2nd gen 12 vavle for my ford F250 in the future and already have an engine complete with all accesories but has a hole in the block due to what I think was a rod cap coming loose.

Either way, came accross another engine in my area and wanted to know if it might be a good candidate.

Supposedly it came out of a cabover truck, only has 70k miles on it but the the truck caught on fire so the engine was pulled. The guy wants $850 for it but doesn't know what year it is.

So, should I even look at it or should I still just look for a good shortblock and possibly a head since mine might be bad?

If you guys think I should check it out, how can I tell what year it is?

Thanks,

-Rob

 

[nevrenufhp]

Being in a fire can be a red light itself. It could've melted all the aluminum on the engine(including part of the pump). Being in a med duty rig, it will likely be set from 160-210hp.
If you live close to it, then it's worth looking.

 

[Classicfordguy]

I'll probably go check it out this week, if all looks okay is the $900 a good price? In looking at my parts engine last night I realized the block is tagged with all the info, year, pump etc, so that makes identifying it easy.


-Rob

 

[argve]

I would say that he's priced about right if it's still good - check it out real good and then try to shoot him a lower price. More than likely the engine is still good it's just that everything electrical and a lot of seals might have to be replaced so like I said shoot him a lower price and go from there....

 

[Classicfordguy]

Update on engine, odd info

Well here's an update, got the guy to read the info on the engine tag to me over the phone and heres what he said it says:

Remanufactured by Diesel Recon Company

08/04/00

TR724RX

HP 175

Series B

Ser# 60213907

Any idea what this stuff means Why would it be remanufactured? Would that be the reman date or the actual date, 00 would make it a 24 valve wouldn't it? The pic looks like a 12 valve, I would think a 24valve would look different. Here is the pic in the add.

 

[Darrin Tosh]

The date would the the Reman Date, it is a early 12Valve with a VE Pump, It is the same motor that I am running.

 

[nevrenufhp]

That's a 12 valve for sure. The date is when it was remanned. That should help the value. Makes the price more worth it now that there's proof. Tons of reasons an engine would need a reman/overhaul, but that's all been fixed. I think that intake will actually help you greatly in a swap. It goes straight to a hose, where the Dodge version goes down towards the steering box. I'd go for it.

 

[nevrenufhp]

The date would the the Reman Date, it is a early 12Valve with a VE Pump, It is the same motor that I am running.

Look closer, I see a P-pump

 

[Darrin Tosh]

Yup Sorry my bad, It is the P Pump! Pics too small

 

[Classicfordguy]

What would reman mean? Think it would be bored over? Might mean the head is in good remaned shape?

My plan would be to use that block and head, strip it down (paint it) and build it back up with new gaskets, head studs and suff for good power and use the best parts from it and my parts engine (that has a bad block).

So this looks like a good candidate? Right now its at $850 obo so $800 or less I would imagine.

Thanks for the quick responses,

-Rob

 

[nevrenufhp]

Means everything has been gone thru. Possibly bored over, if it needed it. The whole thing should be as fresh as the mileage he claims it has....70k miles? Paint would be a good idea!
No need to take any of it apart, except to add the studs and re-adjust the valves if you want. Run it as-is, with your choice of performance goodies. Sell off the parts from the engine with a hole in it.

 

[Classicfordguy]

Well that all sounds good so I'm going to head out in few to go check it out. Anything I should look at? I don't know if it has been sitting outside or inside or what. Should I turn the engine with a wrench? If the truck it came out of had a fire what on the engine should I look at to make sure it didn't get too hot?

-rob

 

[nevrenufhp]

Check anything and everything aluminum; turbo, injector pump, timing case. Yes, turn it over if you can. Easy way is from the alternator, it'll be a 7/8 or 15/16 usually. Check the regular stuff, like the dipstick for signs of water or coolant contamination. You can ask if the KDP has been done, but no biggie if it hasn't. The KDP(killer dowel pin) tab method is an easy fix.

 

[Classicfordguy]

Well, everything checked out and I got it for $700. The motor mounts on the thing say FORD so apparently it was in a ford to begin with. Doesn't look like the engine got hot at all in the fire. Came complet with fan, flywheel, clutch, ac, alternator, and some turbo piping. The tag on the engine sais "cummins recon" so I guess it was remaned by cummins which I assume is good. The injection pump also has a reman tag so it should be in good shape too. There is even a timing gear driven bendix compressor on the driver side of the engine I assume it was for air brakes in the truck, think that will work for onboard air?

Couple things though, this one doesn't seem to have the intake heater plate my other core has, it also does not have an oil fill tube

So whada you guys think?
Here are some pics

 

[nevrenufhp]

That's a score of a price!
You can swap over any parts you need from the other one. Having the air on there is going to be real handy as long as it's not in the way, maybe add airbags too. You don't really need that intake grid heater until it's under 50* outside. Should still start at 30* without it. Dont get rid of the old engine until you have the new one in & running, never know what you might need to swipe.