1993 Ford F-Super Duty XLT - "Log Truck" (new to me truck-pic heavy)

[FORDF250HDXLT]

Well that sucks.

Here's a question for you. How does the transmission sit on the dowel pins. If its sloppy, you will have alignment issues. That means there will be pressurize on the converter hub. That can cause bushing failure.

it sure does.if i was a betting man,i would have put good $ on the converter fixing the issue.i was so sure.i couldn't believe my eyes when she let loose again.

it's starting to get expensive just in lost ATF lol.my god.

it's very snug.she has to be lined up perfectly to come ahead and bolt up.no room for error there.no slop.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

tonight on log truck.........it's a break from the trans pump issues as i gather my thoughts and plan my next steps to get the E40D repaired/hd reman/used-replaced.

moving forward,it's onto some more fun stuff! it's idi tune up time with some new Stanadyne G code fuel injectors.what ford used in the 93-94 trucks with the optional turbo.also what i used in chip truck (yeah,this thread very well could be called "the chip truck build thread that never was" thread" lol)
a Delphi fuel injector install kit with viton brown dash size 111 bought separately.(having great success with these on chip truck)
also a new FIPL/TPS and dialing that in.
i had planned to get out the timing equipment and time the engine as well guys,but my trans is dry and i can't burn her up.so this part will have to wait.

tips for injector install;
be sure not to cross thread your fuel lines.start them with pliers on the lines and gently turn the nut by hand only while moving the line around in a circle real slow to help you line it back up.only after a few turns using your fingers do you want to introduce the 5/8 to 'em.

be sure the copper crush washers remove with the injectors.check each one.if they don't come with the injector then they must be removed with a pick.

use lots of petroleum jelly on your new o-rings prior to sliding them on the new injectors.

it doesn't hurt to buy a couple spare feet of diesel rated fuel hose on hand,as the kits are pretty stingy providing the stuff.

clean.clean.clean.keep the plastic tips on the pintle end of the injector until your ready to install it.

measure the hose twice and cut once.

when moving a GP controller such as i had to do here,insure you unhook the battery first.

anti seize on the threads to help you or the next owner out.

when setting the caps,if your unsure if the cap "seated" then it didn't.

log truck looks to have had a matched set of injectors.they read as Stanadyne D code.

from ford in '93 they would have been Stanadyne E code (as she come non turbo.)

i bet this cures the smoky exhaust the miss the engine had and pumps up the power.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

few more pics of injector install.you can just make out on one of the old injectors,someone used a dremel and wrote g2(and couple other numbers,i didn't care to inspect too closely) indicating they are likely remans i suppose.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

next (for those less versed in the E40D trans.this has 0% to do with my current pump bushing walking issues.)
it's purely preventive maintenance. the FIPL/TPS fords states in the latest TSB (186A) to replace it every 50k miles (or during a reman) as it's a ware item.

so i thought id just check it for kicks and giggles before replacing.she was way off.not out of range enough for the teca to care and toss a code,but it's little wonder why this trans was shifting lighter than chip and why the soon,one right after the other shift,lock,instant shift.too low of a idle setting.you'll get too soon of a shift this low and with shifts right next to each other.it's fine to use the truck like that.had there been an issue/code i would have at least set the old tps before that one day of work use so far.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

so next it's out with the old tps and toss that one (with who knows how many miles on it) in the trash,install,test the ground for pure ground and no resistance,the hot for 5V+ and then set the idle/WOT to latest specs (which is freaking awesome) and she'll shift like a hd work truck with correct rpm/gear spacing/and lockup occurrence and pull real nice.

i got a clean ground,a full 5V plus,then dialed in a near perfect 1.2V idle/close to 4V WOT.
i know chips set right on the $ here as well.wish i could set her @ 7 BTDC and take her out for a run so bad! oh man.i bet she pulls hard now with fresh sticks and a tuned TPS.........oooo baby!

stay tuned to the log truck show.there still more coming tonight!

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

lastly for tonight's final episode on channel 444,log truck brings classic back!

so i used to have a 9th gen previous to my hd's.a '96 f150 and i had installed the old style diamond plate running boards on that.these trucks handle the classic style great i think.

i installed the stainless nurf bars on chip truck,and i missed those good old style classic running boards.
i know,i know.they don't seem to be the thing in style these days but those nurf bars are useless! they set way too far up and way too far in to be of any use.
plus they provide no cab protection like the running boards too from rocks that cause your paint to chip.
if there was one mistake i made with chip truck,imho it was those nurf bars.it's highly likely i'll be tossing those this summer and making myself happy with a set of these.
oh how i have missed these.
let's begin............

Dee Zee DZ2017 Brite-Tread Running Boards

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

so now i can get in the cab.for a 2wd this sucker sure sits right up there.however i think it did one bad thing......it made the old paint look even worse lol.

stay tuned to the log truck show,very soon now she'll be up and running and getting outfitted.
the auto crane is being shipped via uship currently.

 

[79jasper]

I like those over the bars also.
I need a nice new Shiney pair. Lol
How sturdy do yours feel if you stand at the back end?

Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

they feel really good.i weigh in a modest (lol) 240 lbs at 6'1" and i stood right up there on the rear and rocked up and down a bit and the only thing that shook,was the whole truck.

 

[79jasper]

Ah, I think I see what I'm missing.
The piece that runs from the L to the frame. I don't think I have those.
I'm only about 155, and can feel mine give a bit.

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[FORDF250HDXLT]

oh yeah,without that frame brace,i wouldn't dare to step up on the back at all.well that's easy enough to rig up with something you might have laying around or grab cheap enough.

 

[79jasper]

For sure. Lol
Some cheap aluminum angle from tractor supply.
I'll eventually be able to weld that stuff in a few months.

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[FORDF250HDXLT]

well i'll be go to hell! i just pulled the trans tonight after work and the pump/bushing is still pristine.nothing wrong.the mistake this time is all on me.i look in and i see the inside pump gear i have backwards! oops! they disassemble the pumps to inspect them (so says a paper with the pumps/ebay ad) and i just took for granted they were right without double checking.the reason i looked was because the bushing is still mint so i knew right off i had an unrelated issue.....however same symptoms apparently lol! so looks like i can just take pump out,split it again but this time correct they're mistake and put the gear with that dot facing the pump body this way the converter goes down inside deeper.
thank the maker.

so i believe iv got this all figure out.here's the story and im sticking to it:
1.pump #1 - just bushing failure/worn pump.190k miles.aged.she payed her dues.
2.replacement F5 (updated) pump number #1 - the bushing bore should have been honed out.when i installed the superior bushing,it fit way too snug on the converter and right here i should have known better.bushing spun due to being too tight,and it walked thus ruining the pump.this one was on me.my bad.
3.replacement F5 pump (updated) number #2 (current pump) with perfect bushing,but incorrectly installed gears by the salvage yard place on ebay.rather than checking it,i assumed (you know what we get for that) they assembled the pump[ correctly and just installed my transgo parts and bolted it back together as is.also my bad.however it didn't hurt the pump or bushing.i can simply pull and split the pump,spin the gear around and install a new seal and.................cross my fingers.but i think im top of this SOB now boys!

 

[79jasper]

Glad you got it figured out. Lol

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[FORDF250HDXLT]

i just split the pump and i see it ruined the pump body.galled it up pretty good.however the last F5 pump's body (the one i did the superior k062 kit mods too) is still mint.that ones cover is shot.
it also ruined the small pump gear.but iv got two other good 9 (9 what? lugs/pins? teeth? 9 tooth i guess probably,you'd call it) small gears.
the only concern iv got is if it hurt the cover too bad?
if this is "passable" i'll make an f5/f5 up using the good body and this cover without having to buy another used pump.

unlike the original pump that was galled and actually worn down.this one was just run the couple miles so though galled up a bit,it's not worn down deep like the oem was.can i get away with using this cover?
please advise trans experts.

2nd f5 pump galled pic 1

2nd f5 galled pic 2

2nd f5 galled pic 3

2nd f5 cover pic 1

2nd f5 pic 2

2nd f5 pic 3

2nd f5 pic 4

2nd f5 pic 5

2nd f5 pic 6

1st f5 body good w/superior kit installed


that cover didn't take it too bad right? i can make one pump up with the good body and this cover and use a good gear set of course and make sure the small one is inserted correctly.
just to double check,the large outside gear is identical and can go either way right? i don't want to frig up......again lol!