10.25 questions

[laserjock]

So I can't catch a break. What I hoped was a quick seal change is turning into a rebuild.

Pulled the rear hub on pass side and this is what I found.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Outer bearing

You must be registered for see images attach

There is a small ridge where the rear bearing rides. The seal lip looks good. As you can see the bearings are crispy. I haven't knocked the inner bearing out yet but I'm not changing one and not the other.

So I'm searching for a bearing kit. Axle looks okay so I think stock replacements are fine.

Now the real question is do I just go ahead and do both side out of hand. There is evidence it's been apart and it didn't leak as far as I could tell.

My shop manual says to discard the axle bolts but they look okay. Should I just clean them up and loctite them?

So I'll go ahead and say that this is the axle that had the dually adapters on it but it also was a truck where the frame had been broken and plated so I'm sure it's been abused.

Let the conspiracy theories begin.

 

[riotwarrior]

Bearings are shot...what do races look like?

If you can afford both seals and all new bearings and races...better to know where things are than guess.

BTW

DO PACK THOSE BEARINGS WITH GREASE UPON ASSEMBLY....ALSO A WEEE BO ON RACES...HUB NEED NOT BE PACKED BUT BEARINGS YES!!!!!!

IT SAYS TO PACK BEARINGS WITH GREASE IN MY FORD MANUAL.

JM10.25CW

 

[laserjock]

Bearings are shot...what do races look like?

If you can afford both seals and all new bearings and races...better to know where things are than guess.

BTW

DO PACK THOSE BEARINGS WITH GREASE UPON ASSEMBLY....ALSO A WEEE BO ON RACES...HUB NEED NOT BE PACKED BUT BEARINGS YES!!!!!!

IT SAYS TO PACK BEARINGS WITH GREASE IN MY FORD MANUAL.

JM10.25CW

Mine says to pack them too.

I haven't inspected the race but it would give me the Willys to not change bearing and race on the rear hubs. They are a "critical component" to say the least.

 

[typ4]

One never changes only one part of a bearing. I found same thing on the 4x4 when I did it years ago, did one side, 2 years later the other side got loose, was bad.

Moral, do it once right and done. Also follow the book on bearing torque, if hauling heavy I dont back off as many clicks. I have had to do this to keep seals from leaking, It is a proven by me method. FWIW.
Put the torque wrench on the axle bolts, mine would not come up to torque and were stretching. If yours torque they are fine.
When you go to get new ones, make damn sure the dealer gives you the correct ones, the first ones on the list in the book are metric for later trucks.

 

[chris142]

Bearings are shot...what do races look like?

If you can afford both seals and all new bearings and races...better to know where things are than guess.

BTW

DO PACK THOSE BEARINGS WITH GREASE UPON ASSEMBLY....ALSO A WEEE BO ON RACES...HUB NEED NOT BE PACKED BUT BEARINGS YES!!!!!!

IT SAYS TO PACK BEARINGS WITH GREASE IN MY FORD MANUAL.

JM10.25CW

Yup pack them with grease. Make sure that the rear end is full of oil and drive it 10 miles or so to get oil out to the bearings then recheck the oil again. This is a super easy job so it's not a disaster. Buy quality bearings and races like Timkin, SKF, National etc. That way you wont have to worry about them for a long time.

 

[laserjock]

Timken bearings are ordered. God I love Amazon. Now seals. My seal surface looks okay on the pass side. I haven't pulled the drivers side yet. Should I go ahead and do the 2 piece anyway? I'm having a hard time running that seal down by make model and year. I opted for straight up replacements rather than the upgrade to the thinner bearing and slinger.

Thoughts?

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Regarding packing rear bearings with grease, if it's an oil bath bearing grease does not belong in it. Even more so nowadays when we have like 1500 different types of grease and oils - are you 100% certain that the particular grease you pack the bearings with will completely dissolve into the oil you choose to run? So fawk the manual on that one, it's made for the assembly line folks, not someone who can take extra 10 minutes to do it better. And if you can't spare said 10 minutes, you probably shouldn't be doing the job anyways.

Use light coat of oil on the races, smear some on the rollers too if you wish, then drop the bearings in. Install hubs, torque 'em up as needed. Install axle shafts, fill axle with oil. Now tilt the axle good, lift one side way up - all that oil just flooded the low-side hub. Wait a few minutes (go have a smoke or a cup of coffee), then rotate that hub a few times to make sure the entire bearings get the oil bath, I made myself a cheater crank handle that slides onto 4 of the 8 lugs to make this super-easy like. Now tilt the axle the other way and repeat the same procedure. Level the axle, pop wheels on, drop truck on ground, drive off. No chancing the bearings for miles hoping they're get lubricated well, no grease solutions mudding up your fancy synthetic oil, and no grease residue to possibly screw up proper oil access to every roller on the bearing.

Of course everyone is free to do as they see fit. I chose to NOT mix lubricants whenever possible - it's done me good in heavier equipment, can't see a reason to abandon the practice when woring on light-duty stuff.

 

[laserjock]

Btw, here is the spindle after a little red scotchbrite.

You must be registered for see images attach

Bearings and races for posterity. The outer is actually the same as the front outer I believe.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[TahoeTom]

The 2 piece seal I used was SKF 34384. It installed by hand, no pounding on it.

 

[fsmyth]

Regarding packing rear bearings with grease, if it's an oil bath bearing grease does not belong in it. Even more so nowadays when we have like 1500 different types of grease and oils - are you 100% certain that the particular grease you pack the bearings with will completely dissolve into the oil you choose to run? So fawk the manual on that one, it's made for the assembly line folks, not someone who can take extra 10 minutes to do it better. And if you can't spare said 10 minutes, you probably shouldn't be doing the job anyways.


Use light coat of oil on the races, smear some on the rollers too if you wish, then drop the bearings in. Install hubs, torque 'em up as needed. Install axle shafts, fill axle with oil. Now tilt the axle good, lift one side way up - all that oil just flooded the low-side hub. Wait a few minutes (go have a smoke or a cup of coffee), then rotate that hub a few times to make sure the entire bearings get the oil bath, I made myself a cheater crank handle that slides onto 4 of the 8 lugs to make this super-easy like. Now tilt the axle the other way and repeat the same procedure. Level the axle, pop wheels on, drop truck on ground, drive off. No chancing the bearings for miles hoping they're get lubricated well, no grease solutions mudding up your fancy synthetic oil, and no grease residue to possibly screw up proper oil access to every roller on the bearing.

Of course everyone is free to do as they see fit. I chose to NOT mix lubricants whenever possible - it's done me good in heavier equipment, can't see a reason to abandon the practice when woring on light-duty stuff.

I always put a light coat of lithium on them. And drop them in a small pan of the same
oil that will be used to top off the 3rd member. And then jack up rear end and let it run about
20-30 mph for 5-10 minutes. Never had a problem in 40 years. And big trucks have BIG bearings.
The races are fine if they look good AND ARE THE SAME AS WHAT YOUR BEARING WANTS.
There ARE differences between manufacturers.

 

[jhenegh]

Timken bearings are ordered. God I love Amazon. Now seals. My seal surface looks okay on the pass side. I haven't pulled the drivers side yet. Should I go ahead and do the 2 piece anyway? I'm having a hard time running that seal down by make model and year. I opted for straight up replacements rather than the upgrade to the thinner bearing and slinger.

Thoughts?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001542MN8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s03

I ordered these and installed them in December. Ever so slightly tapped them in with a hammer. Couldve done it by hand. I put a small bead of Black RTV on the spindle where it would slide on there. No leaks so far, and I usually stink at installing any kind of oil seal

 

[laserjock]

Cool. Is that a one piece @jhenegh ?

I was leaning toward this one.

http://www.amazon.com/SKF-34384-Rea..._UL160_SR160,160_&refRID=1CXMZ7YRY5WD5FZBTG57

It's the one @TahoeTom used.

 

[jhenegh]

Cool. Is that a one piece @jhenegh ?

I was leaning toward this one.

http://www.amazon.com/SKF-34384-Rea..._UL160_SR160,160_&refRID=1CXMZ7YRY5WD5FZBTG57

It's the one @TahoeTom used.

Yep it locks on the spindle and the hub and seals within itself. As far as I could tell

 

[laserjock]

Interesting.

 

[riotwarrior]

Regarding packing rear bearings with grease, if it's an oil bath bearing grease does not belong in it. Even more so nowadays when we have like 1500 different types of grease and oils - are you 100% certain that the particular grease you pack the bearings with will completely dissolve into the oil you choose to run? So fawk the manual on that one, it's made for the assembly line folks, not someone who can take extra 10 minutes to do it better. And if you can't spare said 10 minutes, you probably shouldn't be doing the job anyways.

Use light coat of oil on the races, smear some on the rollers too if you wish, then drop the bearings in. Install hubs, torque 'em up as needed. Install axle shafts, fill axle with oil. Now tilt the axle good, lift one side way up - all that oil just flooded the low-side hub. Wait a few minutes (go have a smoke or a cup of coffee), then rotate that hub a few times to make sure the entire bearings get the oil bath, I made myself a cheater crank handle that slides onto 4 of the 8 lugs to make this super-easy like. Now tilt the axle the other way and repeat the same procedure. Level the axle, pop wheels on, drop truck on ground, drive off. No chancing the bearings for miles hoping they're get lubricated well, no grease solutions mudding up your fancy synthetic oil, and no grease residue to possibly screw up proper oil access to every roller on the bearing.

Of course everyone is free to do as they see fit. I chose to NOT mix lubricants whenever possible - it's done me good in heavier equipment, can't see a reason to abandon the practice when woring on light-duty stuff.

Aight, then by all means, oh great one, please enlighten us how any of what you are saying based on personal experience trumps what the FORD MANUAL says and the personal experience of those whom have packed bearings in an oil bath system and zero failures doing so?