'86 Crew Cab Project Update and Photos Part 2...

I've been trying to get this crew cab project finished, but work and.... well...... work, has been slowing down the progress. As a refresher, I'm replacing the headgaskets, adding head studs, new gaskets and seals all around, rebuiling the oil cooler, adding a Banks Turbo (used), swapping the C6 for a "typ4" modified 460 ZF5 speed.

Part #1 is HERE if you havn't seen the start of the project.

The following is the progress on the project up to today:

Before the IP was removed, I scribed a mark on the housing and the IP to put them back in the same location. The IP was timed by Mel in '08, I wanted it to be as close to that as possible. I installed the injectors, return caps/lines, and the IP and injection lines.

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Once the IP was on, I could put the Banks adaptor on the front of the IP gear cover. This will vent the crank case to the CDR via a hose.

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Next was the installation of the large firewall reinforcement plate. I bought this nice reproduction from Jason (freebird01). Here's the kit.

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The cowl has to come off to install the plate.

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Like all trucks, my firewall is different than yours, so the plate needed a few adjustments to fit my firewall perfectly. The Ford TSB states this is the case with most large kit installs.
As you can see, the plate was rubbing the firewall. It need to be bend roughly 1/16 of an inch more toward the driver's side.

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The plate was installed with the 5 steering column screws and bolt/nut at the clutch master cylinder mount. A transfer punch placed a divot in the center of each hole for drilling. Here are the firewall holes. A right angle air drill was used....... a regular drill is a bit too long to drill in this area.

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More to follow:

Heath

Moving right along!

A heavy bead of silicone was applied to the plates on the firewall and the cowl and they were installed with the bolts provided.

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Plate installed with clutch master cylinder test fit. Looks great.

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Next was the insturment cluster. I needed to remove the automatic transmision gear indicator.

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Here is the manual transmision "blank" for the same opening in the cluster.

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Here are the two side by side. The auto is white and the manual is black.

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The part number for the manual blank plate is EOTF-7B100

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Here is the manual blank plate installed in the cluster.

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More to follow:

Heath

Next I modified the steering column to get rid of the automatic shift lever. I didn't take a lot of photos of the process, but the wheel and column had to come apart. The majory of the mod was removing the shift rod and lever from the column.

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There is a rivot that needs to be drilled out to separate the shifter from the rod. You can see where the rivot used to be.

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Close up view of the modified steering column. There is a plastic "blank" (I used the one from the '91 parts truck) that goes where the shifter used to live.

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The manual pedal assembly was installed next. I picked up a used one from Zach Link (linkfarms). Modifying the one from the '91 parts truck wasn't worth the hassel.

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This is the mount for the cruise control "off with braking" switch. I moved it and the little plastic foot that it sets on (it's on the break lever) to the manual pedal assembly.

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Once the pedal assembly was in, the steering column could be reinstalled in the cab.

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More to follow:

Heath

Looking good sir!




I always wanted to feel the satisfaction of removing that PRNDL indicator and shifter... Instead I bought my way out of it.

The turbo was next on the list.

This ear on the ZF5's bellhousing needs to come off to make room for the turbo's plumping.

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I used a cut off wheel on a hand held grinder to do the job.

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The block off plate (to cover the CDR opening in the intake) and the heat shield were installed. The throttle cables were placed in heat wrap. The wire for the oil pressure sender and the #7 glowplug were pulled out of the loom.

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Stock CDR grommet Left. Banks turbo oil drain tube grommet Right.

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The used kit I purchased was missing a few small parts, and a few were damaged like the turbo oil drain tube. Something had rubbed a hole in it. Not good.

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Heidi (3 years old) liked the new turbo oil drain tube. She rather use it as a horn, but Dad needed it for his truck.

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The grommet goes here with the turbo oil drain. Make sure the area is very clean. The turbine inlet is already mounted on the engine. That way the fit between the turbo and the drain can be tested and adjusted as needed.

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I filled the crease in the grommet with silicone and installed it in the valley pan.

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More to follow:

Heath

After placing the turbo on it's mount..... the fit between the turbo and the drain tube was tested adjusted and retested until I was happy. Then silicone was placed on the outside of the tube and then it was installed in the grommet.

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The gasket for the oil drain was coated with Blue Hylomar. The turbo was then set in place and the gasket and oil drain tube were bolted on. This is the rear view.

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The four nuts that hold the turbo on the turbine inlet were tightend down and the pyro bung was installed.

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The turbo mount on the right side of the intake manifold was then tightend down.

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The position of the turbo on the engine was checked front to back and side to side.

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This is the oil galley plug that needs to be removed to supply the turbo with oil. The galley was inspected for any debrits that could damage the turbo's bearings. The oil fitting was installed with teflon tape. Banks recommends the fitting be 45 degrees facing the rear of the engine.

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The oil supply line was installed next.

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More to follow:

Heath

This is the oil galley on the upper rear passenger's side of the block. It is the stock location of the oil pressure sending unit. Remove the sender and it's adaptor. Close the opening with a pipe plug with sealent on the threads.

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The factory oil pressure sender goes on the turbo's oil galley block. There is a 45 elbow that comes with the kit. Install it on the front of the oil block, then install the sending unit.

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The turbo plumping takes up a lot of room. The passenger's side of the firewall lip needs to be moved up and out of the way. I drew lines every inch or so. I used a cutting wheel on a grinder to cut along these lines.

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The lip is now cut and ready to bend out of the way.

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The firewall modifications are now done and I'll paint any bare surfaces to prevent rust formation.

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I am going to try something different from my 1st Banks turbo installation. I'm wrapping the crossover pipe, the turbine inlet, and the downpipe with heat wrap. Getting the hot exhaust in and out of turbo quickly should help it spool in a flash.

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More to follow:

Heath

This plug on the rear of the passenger's side head will be replaced by the Autometer water temperature gauge sending unit.

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Here is the sending unit provided with the gauge.

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The plug was removed with a 9/16 wrench. The sender's threads were coated with teflon pipe sealing compound. It was then installed in the head.

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Well, that's all for now. I hope to get the truck out of the shop to degease the frame and install the engine, tranny, US gear underdrive, and t-case. When that is finished, I can button up the wiring changes/additions and finish the project.

Heath

Looking great, Heath. Thanks for taking the time to post pictures

Lots of eye candy!

I think the heat-wrap is a great idea.

A portion of the energy that runs the turbo is in fact heat (or more accurately expanded gasses in the form of heat) so the more heat you can maintain between the heads and the turbo, the more there is to spool it up!


We had the exhaust collector reinsulated on our combined cycle boiler-generator at my last job and netted nearly %15 more kW out of it!

sle2115 said:

Moving right along!

Click to expand...

SparkandFire said:

Looking good sir!




I always wanted to feel the satisfaction of removing that PRNDL indicator and shifter... Instead I bought my way out of it.

Click to expand...

Brianedwardss said:

Looking great, Heath. Thanks for taking the time to post pictures

Click to expand...

david85 said:

Lots of eye candy!

Click to expand...

Thanks a lot guys. It's been a bit of work, but it is getting closer to being finished. I can't wait to get it back on the road.

SparkandFire said:

I think the heat-wrap is a great idea.

A portion of the energy that runs the turbo is in fact heat (or more accurately expanded gasses in the form of heat) so the more heat you can maintain between the heads and the turbo, the more there is to spool it up!


We had the exhaust collector reinsulated on our combined cycle boiler-generator at my last job and netted nearly %15 more kW out of it!

Click to expand...

That's what I'm hopeing for. Al (the guy with the super trick Chevy with the IDI and the sleeper and tandum axles) had his turbo plumbing heat wrapped and his turbo spooled like mad. I think it will help quite a bit, but we'll see.

What should also help is the fact that I maxed the IP fuel screw and shortend the wastegate rod as much as possible.

Heath

What a fantastic writeup, helped all the more by the top notch work - thanks, Heath!

hesutton said:

That's what I'm hopeing for. Al (the guy with the super trick Chevy with the IDI and the sleeper and tandum axles) had his turbo plumbing heat wrapped and his turbo spooled like mad. I think it will help quite a bit, but we'll see.

Click to expand...

Would having the exhaust manifolds, up-pipes and turbo flange Jet-hot coated produce the same effect?