Realistic budget of a 2wd -4wd and goodies build

buying the glass for 50$ on saturday few reasons-will be toasty warm on sunday. then after that temperatures plummet. Im gone next 2 weekends, and bell tire can do it at my home but only if its above 38F, or in heated garage, I have neither. And im not waiting 3 weeks. So 50$ for the glass, two tubes of 3m windshiedl urethane 24 bucks, and hopefully the thing lines up and seals well! i wont be cheap on the urethane, ill dump the whole two bottles if necessary.

I welded up the roof finally, at last the long part took me 3 facking hours, but 45 mins was wsted fackign around trying to do a butt weld but burning through all the time. said eff it, and put a piece over it and went slow. Didnt realize my roof prop wasnt up so the front part was welded in at a dip (middle clearance light would have sat lwoer) so this morning i cut in about 10" jacked it up with long troke, welded it up and looks mint again. Im doing same with the rear and outside of the roof, jsut putting a piece over the small gap and welding because A) you dont see much of the roof 2) i dont got time for thi **** and its not perfectly cut anyhow.
THat being said, all that is left is the inside cowl which i figure about 30 minutes for, then grind grind and smoothe verything.
Tonight I am finishing the front part of roof/window area as it was rusted out,s o a bunch of welding and then grinding it, lay down some paint on the windshield perimiter area, and let it cure untill sunday when the windshield comes on.
Then comes some quick paint work, attach new mirror to door, and start reassembling everything.

Back yer but welds with some thick copper plate....small flattened 4" dia pipe 12" long... cut lil sections off hold to but weld n u should have less issue.

Gas woild help amd 023 wire

HF sells the copper spoon things that work pretty well.

For the windshield get some shims for the bottom.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

^ah yes i do need somethign to put under it so it doesnt slide down on me thanks for the reminder.

wooden dowels work great.do not use metal, it can crack the windsheild.

Windshield is in. Pnly used 1 tube probably shoulda used 2, but i ended up gooping a bunch inside and out as extra protection lol. Looks ugly but eff it. The roof i spliced in i see wasnt lined up all the best either so the trim will sit wierd, honestly might just silicone it on because i had to pit new metal around which eliminated the little nail heads for the clips to attach to, but..well see. Were getting close. Drip raila dn rear part of roof still need to be welded, everything ground smooth. Ah too much time, o well 1 day at a time

nothing exciting to report. But the roof is basicaly done. Welding in a patch for the stock clearance light so i can drill it to where i have mien spaced out to.
putting in 3 hours tonight on it so finish the the under side cowl as well. wire brush everything, grind weverythign put some paint on the welded seams. check my glowplugs while the fenders are apart. perhaps start banging out the other fender too.
my deadline to get this fully buttoned up and everythign is 2 weeks..and im gone the next 2 weekends too.

To replace the Studs for the windshield clips you can use rivets. I ordered new clips from Bronco graveyard for my 89. The larger bottom clip came with rivets.

Part numbers are below.

35196 Bag of small clips. - I ordered one bag of 20 clips.
35197 individual big clip with two rivets. Website says you need 8 per truck. I ordered 8.

Jeremy

All welding is done, primered everything. fixed my defrost/foot actuator arm so it will actualyl work now. brought the black HVAC boxes inside to warm up so tonight i can put new seals on everything.
checked glowplugs they all good. i have accepted the fact perhaps the engine doesnt have the best compression anymore, and/or the pump isnt timed properly. takes a while to start in the mornings but oh well. Aint rebuilding it, drive the engine till it dies completely. Drives good once started though haha.

tonight get the dash HVAC isntalled, put the dash back on, get the driver door and weatherstripping on, driver fender on. maybe drill the two new cleamce light holes and tack the roof cross braces in.
its all just putting things back together now
wont be painting the doors or roof till it gets warmer later next week

coming along. Last night fixed the blend door, installed inner hvac, got some nice silicone double piping seals for the blower box on the firewall side, dash installed, welded in the roof cross braces. cold as shiet tonight and this weekend-plus im busy so ill start back up on monday when its in the pluses. Then drill and install the missing 3 clearance lights, and put all the interior back together, put the seats back in. Doors, fender(still gotta hammer it a bit), scuff and paint, drive it! targeting feb 24th as driving day.
sold my hobart 250ci plsma cutter i bought for 400 few years ago for 600 last night. Got more than enough money to cover my half of the tig welder my buddy and I are buying.
750$ for it, figure 1000$ total with cart and bottle.

AHP 200X

not sure if I posted this picture, but tis one of my favourites. Today drilling the cab light holes and attempt to put the headliner and pillar covers back in.

well I did mess around with the hinges and pins a bunch on the repaired side, lines up pretty well now i think, definitly alot of adjustment. had ym wife operate the gun while i positioned the doors. Putting on the mirror, cowl and pass fender today. Last thing to do it put the headliner and rewire in the interior COB LEDs, half of em broke due to the wifes being fishing wire thin and plastic cracking. Man i just want to fire it up and listen to it!
Ah changed the wirign on my 4x led cubes on the flatbed to come on independant of the key being on, so thats useful in a few situations.

That last picture is badass

Thank you, its probably my fave pic other than the full frontal snow one of the truck. really shows its true "look"


as of this morning. driver fender and battery in, i beat the fneder a bit-ill probably use a stud gun and slide hammer on the fender later, buy it for 50 bucks or so. Used fenders are junk, and i didnt wanna spend 100 on a new one. Plus will come in handy takign the dent out of my foxbody door i put in it over the winter accidently. So the driver door contacts the upper a pillar frame and the b pillar a bit which is a tiny bit welded on crooked, but i really dont care. Its a work truck that I take into the forest, through mud etc. If it seals/no leaks and runs well Im ok with it.

but...i may still replace the fender later at some point...well see.