what timing is it ?

[ezbruce]

Gentlemen

Does anyone know of a picture or a decent diagram of the timing marks on a 7.3 or 6.9 both the front vibration damper and the IP at the housing. I looked all overe the net and so far no luck/
Thanks all replys greatfully appreciated.

EZBRUCE

 

[Diesel JD]

Hey Bruce there only is that strap and a "0" for TDC on the damper and two marks one on the IP flange and one on the gear flange. They aren't enough to help you out much once you install a different pump than the engine came with. You really need a timing tool like a Rotunda or Snapon meter or else a pulse or luminosity adapter, and an adjustable strobe timing light to get things exact. If you want to play with your timing you could go about the width of a dime either way and time it by ear.

 

[kpj]

Don't have any pics of the damber, but here's one from top of the IP where you can see the timing marks. Pic was taken when the old pump was on...


BTW. Diesel JD, Do you know where i could buy Rotunda timing meter and how much do they usually cost?

 

[Diesel JD]

Ebay. Your best bet to keep your costs under control is probably a timing light and Ferret Pulse adapter. There may be similar tools made in your country so that you wouldn't have to keep having the expense of getting stuff shipped over from the US. The tools I know of are a Kent-Moore timing tool, Stanadyne Tach'n time, Ford/Rotunda(can't recall part #s someone here knows them) Snap-On MT480 and MT 1480 as well as the Snap on Pulse adapter MT 257 or luminosity adapter MT254. Be aware that with any of the luminosity only meters you'll need a working luminosity probe and in most cases they are obsoleted at this time, if you can get them they aren't cheap.

 

[ezbruce]

Timing

Thanks for the quick input guy's

The crank dampner has a machined line in it .NOW when this line is in the CENTER of the O ( i believe this is where the pick up probe is placed ) is this TDC or 8.5 degrees before TDC ? Or is this something else. I have access to the proper tools for the proper dynamatic timing method. This has a Pick up that clamps on # 1 cyl. fuel line that send a signal that fires the timing light. ( I think ) I' worried about the revelency of the marks ! and from rather expensive past mistakes . I once tried to " time by ear " and it did run quit well for about 2 weeks then OPPS there goes another Piston !!! This mistake was on my # 2 engine a complete rebuilt 6.9 about 15 years.

AGAIN so far I have not been able to find a diagram or picture of the correct position of the proper timing marks..

Thanks
EZBRUCE

 

[kpj]

Ebay. Your best bet to keep your costs under control is probably a timing light and Ferret Pulse adapter. There may be similar tools made in your country so that you wouldn't have to keep having the expense of getting stuff shipped over from the US. The tools I know of are a Kent-Moore timing tool, Stanadyne Tach'n time, Ford/Rotunda(can't recall part #s someone here knows them) Snap-On MT480 and MT 1480 as well as the Snap on Pulse adapter MT 257 or luminosity adapter MT254. Be aware that with any of the luminosity only meters you'll need a working luminosity probe and in most cases they are obsoleted at this time, if you can get them they aren't cheap.

Thanks for the list of timing equipment. BTW. The reason why i usually try to find certain stuff from US, is that even though there's a long way for the parts to travel they are usually still a lot cheaper for these trucks. And what comes to timing I haven't found a place yet who can do it with a proper equipment, only by ear. If these had a Bosch pump, then there wouldn't be any problems...

 

[gandalf]

I think what you're asking might be answered in the following post by Ziggster long ago on the other board. I copied it then, and it still seems the easiest method. The picture link helps quite a bit, so I hope it comes through.

*******************

ziggster40
Member


How to align the inj. pump gear after cover removed!! #1612546 - 01/25/04 06:50 PM Edit Reply Quote


I just remembered that on friday when I went over to visit Paul at DAS he mentioned to me a way to get the pump gear aligned once the cover has been removed that sounds a lot easier than screwing around with a flashlight and mirror on a stick and stuff.

What you do is lift off the injection pump cover and then the gear. Find the "y" mark at the bottom which points to the tooth that is supposed to align with a dot on the cam gear below(the one you can't see when it's assembled. From that tooth, you count up the gear towards the top on both sides 19 teeth. Put a mark on the 19th tooth on each side, then scribe a line between the two. This line will now run across the front of the gear, and be just above the deck when the gear is lowered into position. You can easily tell if it is out one tooth or not as the line will not be level with the top of the block. You can then lower the cover onto the gear all the while watching the mark to see it doesn't move. Too easy!!

Should look kinda like this.....pic here..

Hope that helps someone, I haven't tried it myself yet, but you can bet I will soon.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[ezbruce]

reply

Thanks for the drawing !!!
I guess i just do better with pic's or technical illustrations


HOWEVER does any know WHAT the proper marks are on the Vibration Dampner ???? at 8.5 BTDC . This is where the BIGGEST mistake can be made.

Again thanks guy's
EZBRUCE

 

[Diesel JD]

OK, the O on the damper is 0* or TDC for #1 and #4 cylinder IF and only IF the timing gear marks that were illustrated are correct. I think that's where most people get into trouble is getting the gear timing off, because then the pump does not have enough adjustment to compensate and you can easily get into the danger zone for glow plugs and even pistons then. I suppose you could get that far advanced on an engine with all the gears properly aligned but I'm not really sure. With biodiesel and the new ULSD that our government requires we have lower btu per unit and higher cetane so being a little more aggressive on the timing is ok. 9.7 BTDC at 2000 with the pulse method which you appear to be using or 0.3*ATDC at 1400 with the old luminosity method would still be within limits and may give you some extra power and better fuel mileage. That would be Euro Spec for these engines where these less polluting fuels have been standard for awhile.

 

[77f250diesel]

You have to use an advance style timing lite with the pulse adapter.
Set the timing lite to 8.5 bring warm engine up to 2000 rpm and the tdc marks should line up--adjust from there.
Hope that helps.

Dennis

 

[ezbruce]

THE light has just come on

First Thanks for all your help guy's

Auchtun ! Auchtun! THE light has just comet on.

FLASH TRAFFIC there is no 8.5 degree mark on the crank or the marker
you must use one of those degreed timing lights .
My timing light is so old at least 35 years old I may have to step to a new one.

Therefore if we adjust the timing at 2000 RPM's this is the max all the advance is used up in the pump at this RPM CORRECT !!!!!

EZBRUCE