WE GOT A RUNNER, BOYS!

bbjordan

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Head Gasket?

Still gonna be head gasket or cavitation.

It ran ok when you didn't have coolant in it. After you put coolant in, it had problems.
Since you found coolant in cyl. 5, I suspect it is a blown head gasket. Usual cylinders for cavitation are 7 & 8. Some times 4, but hey, anything's possible.

The 6.9s were notorious for blowing head gaskets. If that is the original head gasket, it is almost 30 years old!

Good news is: that is the "good" version of the 6.9 block. Worth repairing in my opinion...and if you are going to have the heads off, it would be a good time to upgrade the head bolts to studs. :sly

You might get away with just a head gasket, but I doubt it. :) You won't know until you start tearing it down.
Personally, I would pull the engine just to do the head gasket and studs.

btw, replacement valley pans fit both 6.9 & 7.3, and have provision for turbo oil return. :)
 

Cruiseomatic

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No, It is a reman from motorcraft that is atleast an 2004 model. It has a sticker on the valve cover listing which engine it is and 6.0 is listed.
I could be wrong but that tells me that this engine is less than 12 years old although it looks older. Might of been a shortblock job but then it wouldn't of come with valve covers or stickers for them. I was thinking yesterday at work about eventually doing studs and other improvements but was waiting to see how she does before tearing deep into both then engine and my wallet... Last I checked for ARP studs was for my 6.0 and they were around $500 for a box......
 

Cruiseomatic

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I should probably add, She would light off on a dead cold engine with no glowplugs. That also tells me she does have good compression. If it was cavatation, This would of been caught along time ago when I first tried to start it.
And, It would of happened immediately not after a few minutes of running. I'm trying to look at this positively......:dunno

But, A sudden failure on this scale is odd....With headgasket failures, You can usually still run the engine, just lot of white smoke and misfire.
 

bbjordan

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Heads are heavy, that is why I would pull the engine. It's gotta come out anyway, if you replace it.

Tear it down and make your decision after you have more info.

My 6.9 cents worth :)
 

Cruiseomatic

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Heads are heavy, that is why I would pull the engine. It's gotta come out anyway, if you replace it.

Tear it down and make your decision after you have more info.

My 6.9 cents worth :)

If I decide to pull it, Where can I find a reliable guide to pulling it? It looks pretty self explanatory but still.
 

bbjordan

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Pull it

Looks like you were most of the way there in the video. :)

Not much more to it than that:

-Disconnect batteries
-Disconnect starter connections or just pull the starter and leave it hanging. (less chance of damaging the solenoid)
-Drain oil
-Drain coolant
-Disconnect Coolant hoses
-Disconnect Transmission coolant lines
-Disconnect Wiring harness connector for GP relay and IP connections
-Disconnect Wiring harness connector for Alternator
-Disconnect fuel line to fuel pump
-Disconnect fuel pedal from IP
-undo two bolts holding the fuel cable bracket from the intake. Swing assembly out of the way.
-if you have A/C, remove the bolts holding the pump to the engine. Swing out of the way.
-disconnect bolts holding PS pump to engine. Swing out of the way. Bungee cords are your friend here. :)
-remove exhaust pipes from manifolds. Wire brush the studs and soak them in penetrating oil days in advance.
-remove torque converter bolts and support the transmission. Or pull the transmission and replace it with a ZF-5 or a 4R100 :D
-remove the hoses from the VRV to the trans on the IP.
-remove hose to Vacuum pump
-don't forget to disconnect the ground cable
-remove engine mount bolts
-chain up the engine to the crane.
-remove engine mount bolts
-remove bolts connecting transmission to engine
-separate engine from transmission
-remove engine

That's about it off the top of my head. If I've forgotten anything, I'm sure someone will chime in. :)

Easy Peasy.

Oh, and get a heavy duty (1250 lb) engine stand, not a light duty one for gassers. This is a HEAVY engine.
 

Cruiseomatic

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Basically.
I think riotwarrior has a writeup on engine removal.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

I'll see if I can find it when I get up. Was up all night and morning chasing my own tail....RABS light was on last couple times I ran her. Come to find out, When I pulled off the cruise module off starting to get the fenders ready to be removed for cab swap, I unplugged the VSS and forgot about it. Found it about an hour ago....I'm about sick of this damn engine and its problems.....Really, Sick of this truck and its problems.... Cab destroyed be rust, engine problems left and right, unknown if the trans is anygood even though I was able to score a replacement, The electrical......Which I'm sorting out and it isn't THAT bad. Just cleaning up and checking things.

I think, If I could get back what I put into it, I'd sell this damn thing so fast.....The ink would still be wet on the title when I go to the dmv for transfer....
 

Thewespaul

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If you need to dump it and get out from under it, then I would consider parting it out, you would be surprised by how many good parts are on that truck. The engine has a home here if you decide to part it out.;Sweet
 

79jasper

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I thought so. Been a long time ago though. I think you showed pulling the front clip too.
Heck, I could be imagining things. Lol

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