Valve Cover Gaskets

[ZWilson07]

About the order new felpro ones from rockauto and just had a few questions.

Does anyone know the torque value for them? and would you just recommend permatex avaition on the head itself as well as betweem the gasket and cover?

Also what is the best way to go about doing the passenger side? Obviously the drivers side is easy enough, but what needs to come off for the passenger side? Do you have to take off the fuel filter housing and hardlines or what else?

Thanks

 

[icanfixall]

I use permatex ultra copper plus on both sides of the gaskets. Thats insurance you wont have any leaks. This has worked for me the past 25+ years... Now everything on the passenger side of the engine top will have to be removed. I think the vacuum pump can stay. If not its easy to remove. the filter and bracket and the feed line from the filter to the injection pump have to come off. You will have plenty of room if you remove the ac heater black box too. The cover can come off the engine if that black cover stays on but its a tuff fight for room. Do the passenger side first... then you know the drivers side is so much easier...

 

[ZWilson07]

I use permatex ultra copper plus on both sides of the gaskets. Thats insurance you wont have any leaks. This has worked for me the past 25+ years... Now everything on the passenger side of the engine top will have to be removed. I think the vacuum pump can stay. If not its easy to remove. the filter and bracket and the feed line from the filter to the injection pump have to come off. You will have plenty of room if you remove the ac heater black box too. The cover can come off the

engine if that black cover stays on but its a tuff fight for room. Do the passenger side first... then you know the drivers side is so much easier...

Im a non AC truck so I guess that helps that out.

So what all is on the passenger side? Im at work and havent had much sleep so its hard for me to picture it all just off the top of my head.

What alt and fuel filter housing and thats it? I think I remember it being a hardline ran up to the front of that housing so I guess im going to have to take the hardline off so it doesn't get tweaked and replace the olives?

Anything else im forgetting?

 

[jhnlennon]

Ive done the passenger side numerous times without removing anything. The bolts by the fuel filter bracket are a bit of a challenge but doable with 1/4" drive swivels and extentions...

 

[ZWilson07]

Quick note, finally trying to get this thing back together.

Do I just use brake clean with a rag on the top of the head surface? Obviously try my best not to get anything to drop down in there. Does it matter if its chlorinated or non? Never understood what the use of each was.

Also what would be the best recommendation of cost to replace all my dual positive and negative/ground wiring setup on the truck? Try and buy a ford oem one or make my own? Any recommendations on whats the best stuff to buy to make my own?

Thanks

 

[icanfixall]

Brakeclean on a rag will do very well cleaning the gasket surfaces. As for the battery cables, there is a great ebay seller but I have forgotten the name. Many have bought from him and they really like the price and quality. Someone will chime in with the name..

 

[ZWilson07]

Brakeclean on a rag will do very well cleaning the gasket surfaces. As for the battery cables, there is a great ebay seller but I have forgotten the name. Many have bought from him and they really like the price and quality. Someone will chime in with the name..

Thanks, looking forward to the name.

 

[gdhillon]

this reminds me, both my valve covers are leaking....did you do the passenger side without removing anything?

 

[79jasper]

On some other forums I visit, it's pretty common to use welding lead to make new battery cables.
I think I checked autozone just for S's&G's and the complete positive cable (from drivers side battery to passenger to starter) was right around $100.

 

[ZWilson07]

this reminds me, both my valve covers are leaking....did you do the passenger side without removing anything?

I got it off without taking off anything but it is a pain working around stuff and def takes longer. If you have lots of tool choices and take your time its not to bad.

 

[ZWilson07]

On some other forums I visit, it's pretty common to use welding lead to make new battery cables.
I think I checked autozone just for S's&G's and the complete positive cable (from drivers side battery to passenger to starter) was right around $100.

yeah as I mentioned to you in my v belt thread, im searching around to see if its worth it to just buy them or take the time to buy stuff and make my own.

 

[79jasper]

I almost forgot.
One thing to keep in mind is the wire casing. Most welding lead wire is more susceptible to damage from automotive chemicals than normal battery cables.
So if you go the welding lead route, try to find some that's rated for automotive related chemicals, or cover it with some fuel rated rubber hose.

 

[ZWilson07]

I almost forgot.
One thing to keep in mind is the wire casing. Most welding lead wire is more susceptible to damage from automotive chemicals than normal battery cables.
So if you go the welding lead route, try to find some that's rated for automotive related chemicals, or cover it with some fuel rated rubber hose.

Yeah ive read that on alot of the forums, and the last thing I want to do is have to do the job over again.

Im assuming that replacing the dual battery setup for postive cables and negative cables/grounds for the engine bay and all the way back to the starter is going to be atleast 200 bucks if not more to buy which kind of sucks. But I honestly don't know if I could make them for much cheaper once id have to buy all the supplies; not to mention not having a warranty on the products nor the time it will take to make them.

Still waiting on my guy from tousley to email me back. If he comes close to those figures, I guess id be a fool to not just save the hassle and buy them.

 

[79jasper]

Exactly. Which isn't a bad price considering all the burned out starters you'll save from replacing by not having low voltage/slow cranking. Lol

If you keep the end clean and protected, you shouldn't have to worry about having a warranty.

The only time I've had new cables "fail," is from hot exhaust manifolds. Or bad connection at the battery causing them to overheat. (Like during fuel line bleeding)

 

[icanfixall]

Another note about the negative cables on this or any engine... Never connect them to an exhaust manifold bolt. Even though it might be a closer run and a cheaper cable it wont work. Heres why.. The copper cable will suck the heat out of the manifold. Remember the heat is unlimited during run time. So that heat will boil the battery and ruin it... Saw this happen on a dodge once.. The guy kept ruining his batteires over and over. Looked at where he was grounding too and figured it out.. He needed a ground cable and bught a too short one. Found it would reach the exhaust manifold so figured it was ok... Well can we say it will get you home but not much farhter.... Sure can...