Transmission Leak..

[mohavewolfpup]

Oh joy! My transmission is leaking. It appears to possibly be from the pan area, but i've also read online about how the torque converter drains back into the case and causes it to flow out the vent tube? I've had it sitting for about two weeks without starting my truck. However, we have been having hot/cold (by desert standards) cycles and buckets of rain.

My working theory is that the gear vendors overdrive and/(or?) the torque converter are "draining" back into the case and filling it up? Starting it shows a low (way below) the drilled holes in the dip stick fluid level. Before I started it, it was above that. Added more and it hasn't budged that much

Fluid level is decent, and it dumped more even since I noticed it 3 days ago. Help! Booze for all if you help!

 

[Wyreth]

You have to check fluid level while it is running. Because yes, the TC and everything else drains back into the pan when it stops pumping, and will give you a false reading. (fluid also needs to be at operating temp when you check it, as it expands as it gets warmer)

It's not going to drain back and get up to the vent unless you've massively overfilled it. However, even overfilling it a little will cause it to churn and foam the fluid, and that's when it comes out the vent, but that happens while you're driving. You'll see the smoke.

I say, pull the inspection cover, look in there to see if it's wet. If there is ATF in there, your front trans seal is leaky. That doesn't mean its the only leak. If you think your pan gasket is leaky. Just replace it, it's a cheap part, and a pretty quick fix. Be sure the gasket surface on your pan is flat, that both the trans and the pan are CLEAN, and that you don't over torque it when you re-install. Or you're just installing a leak. Then look at your rear trans seal and check if it's wet or not.

also make sure you don't have fluid draining down the side of the trans from a leaky cooler line.

 

[mohavewolfpup]

You have to check fluid level while it is running. Because yes, the TC and everything else drains back into the pan when it stops pumping, and will give you a false reading. (fluid also needs to be at operating temp when you check it, as it expands as it gets warmer)

It's not going to drain back and get up to the vent unless you've massively overfilled it. However, even overfilling it a little will cause it to churn and foam the fluid, and that's when it comes out the vent, but that happens while you're driving. You'll see the smoke.

I say, pull the inspection cover, look in there to see if it's wet. If there is ATF in there, your front trans seal is leaky. That doesn't mean its the only leak. If you think your pan gasket is leaky. Just replace it, it's a cheap part, and a pretty quick fix. Be sure the gasket surface on your pan is flat, that both the trans and the pan are CLEAN, and that you don't over torque it when you re-install. Or you're just installing a leak. Then look at your rear trans seal and check if it's wet or not.

also make sure you don't have fluid draining down the side of the trans from a leaky cooler line.

I'll go out and check it again, probably tommorrow. some spider decided to nest underneath the truck near my cab step. Not that I fear spiders mind you, but a bite in the dark doesn't sound fun! I believe I saw wetness around the transmission. The gear vendors unit or the tail shaft didn't have any signs of a leak. Does the gear vendors unit have fluid pumped into it somehow also? Didn't get a manual for that portion of the truck with it.

Would you happen to still be on for getting my truck timed? if my injectors could stand a "seafoaming" (got some different chemicals to clean them internally) would that effect the timing in anyway?

 

[Wyreth]

Yes, I'm still on for getting your truck timed. When is a pretty big question, as my schedule has only gotten worse. We'll work something out tho. No, seafoaming or ATFing, or otherwise shouldn't change your timing significantly. That changes as the springs in them wear, and they pop at lower pressure, advancing it very slightly. The big thing is the IP retards as it wears. That's what changes the timing dramatically.