transfer case and spedomoter/ transmission trubbles after reinstalling drive train into truck.

Cheesy

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hey. yesterday i finished putting my 7.3 back together after having to pull the motor and the head. tried to fix every leak and anything i could spot wrong with it while it was all out of the truck. one of those leaks was the transfercase. its a borg warner 1356 manual shift that was leeking right down the case halves. no biggee to fix it i thaught. so i split it apart and put some new silicone to fix the leek and put it back together the exact same way i found it. again, so i thaught. dummy me didnt check to see if it would shift before i put it back in the truck. once i got it in and noticed it wouldnt get out of 2 wheele drive, i thaught meaby if i drive it a while it will work its selfe out. it didnt however my transmission was shifting like it was brand new for the first few miles it hadnt shifted that smoothe since i had owned the truck and i was very pleased then after about five miles the truck starts sputtering and running rough and smoking and eventually dies. before it died the mehcanical spedomoter was working it started back up but the speedo wasnt working after that and the transmission was shifting really hard. was able to drive it an hour homw though. i have a few questions. first iis do you think my fuel shut off sylinoid is going bad? im wandering if thats why it died. the second is are the mehcanical speedomoters purely mechanical? cause if they are im wandering if i had sever transfer case failure and chewed up the speedo gear. during this i never heard or felt any kind of grinding or bindage. lastly does my e4od make its electronic shifts based off of my spedomoter and thats why it shifted bad after that? any body have similar problems? on the bright side all my leaks are fixed haha
 

Farmer Rock

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How long did the engine run rough for? The fuel shutoff solenoid failing would act exactly like turning off the ignition. The smoking points to it being unrelated to the fss. I am assuming this smoke was white and smelt like unburnt fuel? If so, you have air intrusion.



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Cheesy

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It sputtered for about 15 seconds before it gave up and died. I do not know what color or smell the smoke was making. It was about midnight when we hopped on the highway. My dad was behind me to spot any problems and said it was smoking when it stater running rough. The motor ran clean and smooth after it started again all the way home. I should mention that the truck dying on me is not a new thing. It’s always started back though. Before I did my repairs on it she died very so often just like your decribing. Immediately with no sputtering. And when it dies I check my fuesible links Almost always there’s one blown. I put a new one back in and it runs fine again for a random amount of time. Sometime a couple days and sometimes weeks. On a side note, any clue what amp fuses I should put in those links. By the passenger side battery?
 

Farmer Rock

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It sputtered for about 15 seconds before it gave up and died. I do not know what color or smell the smoke was making. It was about midnight when we hopped on the highway. My dad was behind me to spot any problems and said it was smoking when it stater running rough. The motor ran clean and smooth after it started again all the way home. I should mention that the truck dying on me is not a new thing. It’s always started back though. Before I did my repairs on it she died very so often just like your decribing. Immediately with no sputtering. And when it dies I check my fuesible links Almost always there’s one blown. I put a new one back in and it runs fine again for a random amount of time. Sometime a couple days and sometimes weeks. On a side note, any clue what amp fuses I should put in those links. By the passenger side battery?
I had a truck that did exactly what you describe, except it died suddenly with no smoking or surging. It would be running great then just die out of nowhere like the ignition was turned off. It would do it randomly, but got worse over time. Long story short, it was a temperature sender shorting out. It caused the glow plugs, fast idle, timing advance, and fuel shutoff to fail randomly. These trucks didn't have inline fuses from the factory. The PO added one and it kept blowing with a 20 amp and I wasn't going to put a bigger fuse in. I had to pull apart the wire loom on the IP to check the wires, and they did melt because of the sender. I would say, for fuse size, probably 15 amp is all you need. Definitely don't go higher than 20 for that. It's not very high amperage at all.


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Cheesy

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Nope. Hasn’t ever smoked. Always has ran clean. The only time it smokes is when it starts sometimes but not very often
 

Cheesy

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Thanks for the info by the way. Will definitely be checking into that. I’m really curious what corollation the spedomoter had to the truck dying. That’s what’s strange to me
 

Farmer Rock

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That is interesting. Is it possible that the speedometer not working is just a coincidence? It sounds like it was working fine until you had to restart the truck? I am a manual transmission guy, so don't quote me on this next part, but I believe you are correct and the trans does use the speedometer to coordinate downshifts. I can be completely wrong about that though, like I said, I have never really messed with automatic transmissions.


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