hheynow
the misanthrope
tranny coolers. I have the Tru-Cool 4590 and I never have seen temps over 170*F (so far) 
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Tranny Coolers
- Thread starter tuckerd1
- Start date
sle2115
NRA LIFE MEMBER
tranny coolers. I have the Tru-Cool 4590 and I never have seen temps over 170*F (so far)
Are you running the radiator cooler as well?
hheynow
the misanthrope
Yup...
Mont91
Full Access Member
Radiator cooler before or after?
I had never measured a cross flow with this in mind. I know that the tall versus wide radiator for IDIs has more suface area. But these are both vertical flow.
I wasn't thinking flashpoint but thermal break down, good link. When I was researching high temp air cooled engine oil last summer all the literutre said automotive engine oil begins to break down at or about 240 degrees. I will hav eto find this info again.
Anybody have a formula to figure temp transfer per square inch of surface area at a given air temp and given fluid temp. Gotta go cut wood.
I had never measured a cross flow with this in mind. I know that the tall versus wide radiator for IDIs has more suface area. But these are both vertical flow.
I wasn't thinking flashpoint but thermal break down, good link. When I was researching high temp air cooled engine oil last summer all the literutre said automotive engine oil begins to break down at or about 240 degrees. I will hav eto find this info again.
Anybody have a formula to figure temp transfer per square inch of surface area at a given air temp and given fluid temp. Gotta go cut wood.
sle2115
NRA LIFE MEMBER
Air cooled is different in that the metal in an air cooled engine gets much hotter. Even in a liquid cooled engine, the metal temp is higher than the coolant temp, air cooled is even worse. I used to work on some air cooled cart motors and they were ******* petroleum oil. We used synthetic with good results.
That would be a neat formula. Unfortunately, ambiant temp, airflow and/or restriction of airflow, wind speed (driving speed) and all would make a standard formula much more difficult. Just thinking of the driving condition changes here in Ohio, where one day we may be in the single digits and the following day, in the 60's!!! I am about ready to move because of it!
dualexhaust
Registered User
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I have the Tru-Cool 4590 also. It is in series after the radiator circuit. Works great though. In stop and go with my 7000 lb trailer I used to hit 220 to 230 degrees, now I have never seen over 185.
tuckerd1
WAR DAMN EAGLE!
Thanks for all the replys! A lot to think about!
I think for now I'll just add an additional cooler with the temp gauge I now have and see what it does.
I think for now I'll just add an additional cooler with the temp gauge I now have and see what it does.
swampdigger
Full Access Member
Haha, cool!! That thing is neat... what's it from?
My contribution to this thread: tranny gauge, tranny gauge, tranny gauge, tranny gauge, and tranny gauge.
See for yourself how your tranny is doing. From there you can decide what kinda of cooling you need. Those gauges have saved my ass 10 fold!
adrianspeeder
USAF C-17 Avionics
Ya want the tranny up to operating temp as quick as possible for non sluggish firm shifts. Bout 140 is a good temp and in the winter a good stacked plate cooler can bring the fluid temp below that and the rad exchanger can hold the temps in check.
Also, no one will ever convince me this is to work as a heater either. If you don't believe me, watch a trans temp gage and a coolant gage - even if the coolant temp is taken in the cylinder head, the trans temp in every automatic I have ever had rose faster than the coolant temp - at least to operating temperature. So how could 100 coolant help heat ATF that is 110 degrees - I was born at night, but not last night...
No, it's not going to do much at startup, but will stabilize the temp while normal running at freezing or below freezing temps.
It's time for some new coolant if the rad is only dropping by 10 degrees me thinks. I'm thinkin' to buy one of those infered temp things now to be sure, but I can grab ahold of any of the trucks bottom hoses after a run.
Adrianspeeder
round 2
i did try checking some of this stuff out and after a good half hour drive with engine at full temp i did jump out and can comfertably hold any bottom part of the rad. i dont have a temp gage for that part but i would guess it to be around 100F. i couldent hold any of the top without burning myself quickly though. this is about 40F outside temp so that might make a differnence in the summer time. i am half tempted to add a temp gage at the bottom just to see how effective it is.
i did try checking some of this stuff out and after a good half hour drive with engine at full temp i did jump out and can comfertably hold any bottom part of the rad. i dont have a temp gage for that part but i would guess it to be around 100F. i couldent hold any of the top without burning myself quickly though. this is about 40F outside temp so that might make a differnence in the summer time. i am half tempted to add a temp gage at the bottom just to see how effective it is.
Jasper says not to run the rad heat exchanger or stock lines or stock fittings at the trans because they are too small for sufficent flow. They ship all their E4OD's with their own cooler kit which includes oversized lines, oversized fittings and a cooler with a much larger ID. I have one on my truck and it cools very well but does take forever to get up to temp.
sle2115
NRA LIFE MEMBER
Well, as I said, you won't keep the transmission under 140 degrees, with or without the cooler unless you go great big. Engine coolant not needed, the transmission will easily stay warm just operating.
Do whatever you want, I know what worked for me and from the tests I ran. The last truck I sold, which towed a 21 foot boat many weekends and a tandem lowboy with an 860 Ford tractor. It had 275,000 miles on it when I sold it and had the comparable transmission to the E40D, it was a 700R4, known to have many of the same issues as the Ford trans.
My statement about inlet/outlet temps included about a 2 hour run in something of a medium temp, not 40 degrees. This is the problem with trying to compute radiator effienciency, it has to take ambient air temp etc. into consideration. You can cool the transmission without the radiator cooler and you will have no ill results, under the conditions you have enough cooler and as many have said (myself included) a trans temp gauge would be a good thing to have.
Do whatever you want, I know what worked for me and from the tests I ran. The last truck I sold, which towed a 21 foot boat many weekends and a tandem lowboy with an 860 Ford tractor. It had 275,000 miles on it when I sold it and had the comparable transmission to the E40D, it was a 700R4, known to have many of the same issues as the Ford trans.
My statement about inlet/outlet temps included about a 2 hour run in something of a medium temp, not 40 degrees. This is the problem with trying to compute radiator effienciency, it has to take ambient air temp etc. into consideration. You can cool the transmission without the radiator cooler and you will have no ill results, under the conditions you have enough cooler and as many have said (myself included) a trans temp gauge would be a good thing to have.
