timing...

[chrisgrant91]

im sure its been said but what consist of timing... how do i do it and what do i need...where do i set it ect...

 

[tradergem]

Here is a pretty good explanation of timing a diesel like ours, even thought the site is about chevys.
Oliver Diesel

Jim

 

[chrisgrant91]

on that same note... can i do it by hand/ear/feel whatever.... what happens if i go too far?...will i notice it or just hurt it over time...

 

[chrisgrant91]

anyone?

 

[subway]

to do the timing properly you need a meter to set it. it can be set fairly close by ear but it is hard for even an experianced person to get it right within spec.

unfortunatly its one of those things you need a special tool for. if your timing is retarded its safer for the diesel but you loose the power and fuel economy of the engine and have higher EGT's (been there)

advancing it to far will give you more power but can start causing damage to the motor. if it starts sounding like it has a powerstroke rattle it is to far advanced.

if i remember right timing is set at 8.5 BTDC at 2000 rpm for the pulse mothode (sensor reading the pulse of the injector line)

 

[chrisgrant91]

how far does it usually have to be moved?

 

[subway]

how far does it usually have to be moved?

that's a loaded question, depends on how far it is out. usually people move it about a dimes width at a time.

 

[chrisgrant91]

ok i just moved it about that...but you cant hardly do it cause the lines are holding it in place? am i missing somthing i loosend the three on the front holding the pump...

 

[RLDSL]

You need one of these and an advance type automotive induction timing light and you will be able to properly time it. The tools will only cost about the same as having it done at a shop once or twice, and you have the added benefit of knowing that it's been done correctly .

8.5 deg btdc @2000 rpm is the spec, I've got mine at 10.5 in an attempt to offset the lousy new fuel and it seems to be helping.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Yep, tis pretty hard to turn the pump with all the lines still hooked up to it - my pump has a boss on the front of its case where you can slip a 3/4 (19mm) open end wrench on it, that's just what I did - loosen the 3 bolts you loosened, lean on the wrench, tighten two bolts, the fight the one under the fast idle solenoid. I advanced my IP a bit over 1/8" from where it was (measured at the mounting flange), as it was blowing white smoke at startup when it was mounted straight like it should be - my guess is that whenever it was replaced (and I know it's been replaced) the gear was 1 tooth off.

 

[DeepRoots]

i use an injector bar on the inj line nuts.
works and doesnt hurt anything.

 

[chrisgrant91]

i moved mine about a dime width or maybe a hair more...shoudl i notice a difference in sound? cause i didnt

 

[chrisgrant91]

and a guy told me to time it under that 2 bolt cover on the front of the motor infront of the ip...what is under there?...im new with this engines... always been a mopar guy

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Deep Roots, what's an injector bar?

Chris, it should rattle a bit louder at idle, at least tis supposed to - hell if I know if mine got louder, it was loud to begin with. Also, the two-bolt cover you're looking for is on the front face of the engine, above the water pump ad below the oil-fill neck. How you time the IP from there tho, I ain't got no clue 'bout that.

 

[chrisgrant91]

haha...yeah... im gunna be honest...i cant afford the fancy tool... im trial and error and i hope it doesnt blow up... 17 and learning... works in a truck shop for 4 years and i do love diesel