Started transmission rebuild

Cincinnati Guy

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As some of you know I was going to rebuild my transmission. Well today was the day we got it all pulled out. Got up real early and got everything ready to get it out. The transfer case really wasn't as heavy as I thought, on the other hand the transmission killed us trying to get it out.

After we got it out we made a trip to Walmart to get a bunch of cans of brake parts cleaner to clean the insides when we got to that part.

Got the outside clean using pressure washer and simple green, looks pretty clean now.

Everything came apart really easy out first was the intermediate servo cover, was really nasty looking and black in there, later we found out the intermediate band was toast.

Started on the front pump everything seemed OK but still a new front pump is going in.

Out came the reverse clutches and we replaced the 3 clutches in it then did the same for the forward but there are four in it.

Tomorrows plans are to start installing the shift kit onto the valve body, but before that were going to make sure there are no valves in it sticking.

Here are some pictures of the progress..


Here is the input shaft.
Some one said its suppose to have the groove in it. Are they correct?
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Valve body all cleaned up.
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The forward and reverse clutches after we installed new clutches
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All small parts and bolts and in baggies marked.
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This is a must!
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Ill keep y'all updated.
 

sassyrel

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yes the machined area on the shaft should be there---also---you need to remove the bottom wave washer in the forward clutch, and replace the top plate that is machined for a extra steel and friction--then you would have 5 forward drivers instead of 4---ive had 5 pack forwards---and turned them into 6 packs!!!! called no slip--behind a slightly warm 460-------!!!!!!!!!! turned the direct into 5 pack--that holds--also got rid of all the thrust washers but one----with bearings---and turned the rear reverse packs into 5--instead of four---pulling mule!!!!!
 

FordGuy100

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yes the machined area on the shaft should be there---also---you need to remove the bottom wave washer in the forward clutch, and replace the top plate that is machined for a extra steel and friction--then you would have 5 forward drivers instead of 4---ive had 5 pack forwards---and turned them into 6 packs!!!! called no slip--behind a slightly warm 460-------!!!!!!!!!! turned the direct into 5 pack--that holds--also got rid of all the thrust washers but one----with bearings---and turned the rear reverse packs into 5--instead of four---pulling mule!!!!!

What the heck does all of that stuff do (talking about putting in more packs?)? Not into the auto tranny lingo and how it all works.
 

Cincinnati Guy

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yes the machined area on the shaft should be there---also---you need to remove the bottom wave washer in the forward clutch, and replace the top plate that is machined for a extra steel and friction--then you would have 5 forward drivers instead of 4---ive had 5 pack forwards---and turned them into 6 packs!!!! called no slip--behind a slightly warm 460-------!!!!!!!!!! turned the direct into 5 pack--that holds--also got rid of all the thrust washers but one----with bearings---and turned the rear reverse packs into 5--instead of four---pulling mule!!!!!


What advantages does it have? So all I have to do is take away something and add another clutch?


Give me some more detail on this. Pictures maybe?
 

sassyrel

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on the forward pack--the drum with no outer "ears"---theres a "wave" washer under the clutch pack--next to the beveled plate in the bottom of the drum--throw it--and put a friction in its place--as theres a steel right above the wave washer---that gets you 5 frictions--more drive surface--less slip abilty under power--then if you get the machined top plate--you can add the 6th steel and friction--in the direct---theres no wave--so you need the machined top plate to get 5 packs--and if you can find a original 5 pack direct--you can add the mach top to get 6 pack---also--there are diff thickness top snap rings--so you can get the clearance set right----too much clearance--slow kick in on clutch----and more travel for the piston---
 

sassyrel

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What the heck does all of that stuff do (talking about putting in more packs?)? Not into the auto tranny lingo and how it all works.
you have the same apply pressure--no matter how many steels and frictions---but a whole lot more square surface area of driving area!!!!!!!!! i/e---less chance of slip--ive even seen some low power c6's with three forward packs!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! in 302 c6's in light vans and such--got to save beans ya know-----the 5 pack factory drums were used in 428's and hot 390's, some 410's-------also--the reason i do the bearing mod--when you are under hard pull--theres enormous amounts of friction on the thrust washers---the ater" c6's have plastic thrust washer--know what happens when the oil starts to get a little toooo warm between the washer and drum???? and your trans doesnt have to be hot---the oil right at that surface gets real hot---and melts the washer--seen it more than once--guess what that does to the internal clearances---it also will break the steel sealing ring---seen that also -then you no move!!!!!!!!!
 
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Cincinnati Guy

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Ok whats a thrust washer you refer to?

so for the Forward I can just toss the wave washer and put a clutch in its place? But with the reverse I cant, unless I get a new top plate?

Which one is the forward? is it the one that came out first or second?

Wave washer right?

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trackspeeder

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Ok whats a thrust washer you refer to?

so for the Forward I can just toss the wave washer and put a clutch in its place? But with the reverse I cant, unless I get a new top plate?

Which one is the forward? is it the one that came out first or second?

Wave washer right?

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Low reverse, add a friction. then you need to have the plate cut. Tighten this clearance up too while your playing with it.:D
 

Devilish

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Did you soak the clutch disks in transmission fluid before installing them? I was taught that this was an important thing to do. Also I'm surprised that you didn't get a few gallons of kerosene and a bucket for parts washing. After you're done you could filter the kero then burn it in your truck.
 

Cincinnati Guy

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Did you soak the clutch disks in transmission fluid before installing them? I was taught that this was an important thing to do. Also I'm surprised that you didn't get a few gallons of kerosene and a bucket for parts washing. After you're done you could filter the kero then burn it in your truck.

I was planning on soaking the whole clutch Assembly in tranny fluid.

I didn't use kerosene because it leaves a oily film behind as opposed to the brake cleaner.
 

sassyrel

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the pic of the two clutches together--the one with the ears--is the direct clutch---the forward has the wave--and yes, remove it and add a friction--the top plate is cut on a lathe--so that you have a "notch" out of the outer top dia--enough so that when its in place--you can get a snap ring by and into the groove----------------the forward pack is on in 1,2,3, and off in reverse--the direct is on in 3, and reverse. the band is on in 2,-----in rev--direct and reverse clutch is on--reverse is the one in the rear of the case--
 

trackspeeder

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I was planning on soaking the whole clutch Assembly in tranny fluid.

I didn't use kerosene because it leaves a oily film behind as opposed to the brake cleaner.

Let it soak real good. You don't want dry spots on the frictions. Next time around soak the frictions for about a half hour.
 

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