should i fix my dents and paint my truck?

93f250idi

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gotta great deal on body work and a paint job so contemplating what to do. heres some pics of my truck. tell me what you think it should cost to have all the dents fixed and a fresh paint job. welp any ways here are the pics.

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86truckpull

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It rly depends on the person who's fixin it if it's a friend or a shop a good shop could get 2500 to fix and paint the bed I personally have buddies in the trade who would charge me about 500 buck which is mostly just supplies
 

93f250idi

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he said $100 a day and would take 4-5 days. plus paint and primer. i already have all the primer just need to get some paint and clear. figure around 200 for paint an clear. not a bad deal at all i dont think. need a new tailgate tho. gotta lead on two brand new bedsides but not sure how much. been sitting at a chevy dealership in the back of a box van for years LOL. hopin to get some prices tommarow.
 

SparkandFire

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If you can find a whole bed that might be the way to go. I had a friend who replaced a bed side and it wasn't as much fun as swapping the whole bed out.

Out here truck beds are fairly abundant.
;Sweet
 

david85

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Be weary of good body shop rates. I've yet to find a single body man that I could trust.

I'm tripping over 87 and up beds that are practically mint (******* me off, because I need one for 86). Saw a CL ad recently for one that was used as a show room piece for a canopy outfit and never saw any rain, direct sunlight or salt. Rhino liner and all.... Saw another dual tank 8' bed in the auto wreckers yesterday that was an absolute cherry.

What you have to remember with having dents repaired is no matter how good a job he does, most body men prefer to just heap on the bondo. Also, when all those dents are pulled out, the factory primer cracks in places like the inner wheel arch and you could have rust oozing out of there in a couple short years (assuming it hasn't started already. My understanding is these truck bodies are immersion primed at the factory so all the inner seam and lap joints have primer in there, but when you stretch the metal enough, the protective layer gets breached (usually near a spot weld). Places like the wheel arches and rear box corners are VERY vulnerable to rust even at the best of times, let alone when you go stretching an bashing the tin like that. The only real way to stop the rust is to oil up the body periodically (A good idea anyway), but considering you will likely pay the same amount for a whole bed, I would just replace the whole thing and not worry about what your fresh paint could be hiding from you.

I say look for a clean bed, have it painted, THEN drop it on your truck (unless you want to do the whole truck over again, which it seems is not needed).
 

93f250idi

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ive been searching up and down for a bed but cant find any thats not rusted out. my bed has a little rust but not bad. im hoping i can get the bed sides cheap but if not then out comes the bondo.
 

redneckaggie

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decent clear alone will run you about 150 bucks, the paint will likely be in the 100-150/gallon range, you will need about a gallon and a half, then you have the thinner at about 30 bucks a gallon. I just painted my truck and for the blue/white two tone I did materials alone were around 650. thats for paint, primer, sandpaper, bondo, glazing putty, tape, and clear(do not waste time with cheap clear it will bubble up and look like **** in about 3-4 years i know my dads and my grandpas did it my bro went with the high dollar clear and it looks great). pics here

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=42457

You could definately save some money if you went with cheap paint like stuff from tractor supply but they just didnt have shiney enough colors for my liking
 

93f250idi

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decent clear alone will run you about 150 bucks, the paint will likely be in the 100-150/gallon range, you will need about a gallon and a half, then you have the thinner at about 30 bucks a gallon. I just painted my truck and for the blue/white two tone I did materials alone were around 650. thats for paint, primer, sandpaper, bondo, glazing putty, tape, and clear(do not waste time with cheap clear it will bubble up and look like **** in about 3-4 years i know my dads and my grandpas did it my bro went with the high dollar clear and it looks great). pics here

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=42457

You could definately save some money if you went with cheap paint like stuff from tractor supply but they just didnt have shiney enough colors for my liking

I get a pretty good discount threw a buddies car lot. Good stuff cheap prices lol. I found a complete bed for $350 or 2 brand new bedsides for $200 and then $200 labor to get em put on. Dunno what to do
 

Diesel_brad

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I get a pretty good discount threw a buddies car lot. Good stuff cheap prices lol. I found a complete bed for $350 or 2 brand new bedsides for $200 and then $200 labor to get em put on. Dunno what to do

Where are you finding 2 bedsides for 200. I get DEALER COST and i am looking at 250 PER SIDE
 

93f250idi

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There just old ones at a chevy dealership. There brand new in black primer. A buddy of mine works there and he said he could get em for $100 each. I think it would save me money to get the bed and put it on myself. But it's just $50 saved that way so either way is ok.
 

Diesel_brad

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There just old ones at a chevy dealership. There brand new in black primer. A buddy of mine works there and he said he could get em for $100 each. I think it would save me money to get the bed and put it on myself. But it's just $50 saved that way so either way is ok.

Are they FORD side or aftermarket? If they are ford ones, you can make some $$$ and sell them to me for 300 a piece
 

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